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tips and tricks Oil change toyota auris TS 1.8 hybrid 2013-2019


Yves LR
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Who changes there motor oil by themselves and have some tips and tricks?

I'm gone change my oil + filter on my auris TS 1.8 hybrid 2014.

My plan is to jack up the car into the front and put under the 2 front side axle points some axle stands.

Does the oil drain then complete out?

To put the drainplug back, first hand tighten the drain plug and than a small quarter turn with a key?

Some extra tips are also welcome ofcourse 😉

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That should be mostly fine - Just be aware you probably won't get all the oil out, but as long as you get most of it out that'll do.

Don't forget the oil filter too!

One trick is to loosen the oil filler cap as it helps the oil drain out faster. Also if you do it when the engine is still warm, e.g. maybe 10 mins or so after parking up from driving, the oil is nice and warm and flows much better than if the engine is stone cold.

I'd also recommend changing the crush washer on the drain plug, but you can normally get away with reusing it once depending on what it's made of. Also, if it's a magnetic drain plug, check it for swath and debris - If there's a lot, may be engine issues. Regardless, clean any off before replacing it.

 

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Drain plug is around 35NM of force.

Always replace the washer.

And get a big bucket for the oil.

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Always get the engine up to normal operating temperature, that way the dirt is held in suspension and the oil will flow out better.

Make sure you have all tools to hand before you start.  Some good cotton rags are handy too.

I like to remove the filter before I take the oil out, that way my drain basin is empty and I avoid a hot splash if I drop the filter into 5L of oil.

Remove filler cap and dipstick to let air in as the oil comes out.

 Fill with the recommended capacity and check it on level ground later.

After filling, start engine but don’t rev it until the oil light is out. (That applies every time you start an engine)  Have a good look around the sump plug and filter before putting sump guards back on.

 I very seldom replace the sump plug washer and I’ve never had one leak so, it’s nothing to worry about if you don’t have a new one.

 

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I wanted to add to my post but it’s too late to edit it.

If your car takes more than 5L and you have a 5L bottle of oil and a 1L bottle, pour the small bottle first.  You can then cut the bottom off it and use it as a funnel to help with the pouring of the big container.

Or, cut the bottom off an old water bottle to use as a funnel.

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Thanks a lot for the good advices! Now I look forward to do the job 😉  It's always good to know some some tips from people who have done the job before.

 

 

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Hi, good tips given here. Hybrid are slightly different though and you will need to follow an extra procedure  to set the car into maintenance mode and let the engine running for about 10-15 min but if you are working on the car after a drive and engine is hot then only need to wait 10 min to cool down a bit before you undo the plug. You can rise the car up the jack stands but if you have a car ramps is way better, gives you extra room for easier access. Good to have a quality oil filter tool, avoid Draper these does not fit in hybrids, also a breaker bar at least 60cm long , sometimes these filters are really tight and remember tighten up max 25Nm which is just as it’s stop spinning, the plug is max 35Nm, new washer is good practice. You can watch that guy if you are new to the car, he has many helpful videos . 👍

Also buy an original oil filter and follow the instructions on the box how to replace the rubber seal, as it’s easier to wrongly fit it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Lexus-Oil-Filter-04152-YZZA6-OE-Petrol-New-Original-/264482754850?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Filter-Wrench-Cap-For-Toyota-Prius-Corrola-Tool-Remover-14-Flutes-64-5mm-UK-/263884356555?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

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3 hours ago, Cyker said:

That should be mostly fine - Just be aware you probably won't get all the oil out, but as long as you get most of it out that'll do.

Don't forget the oil filter too!

One trick is to loosen the oil filler cap as it helps the oil drain out faster. Also if you do it when the engine is still warm, e.g. maybe 10 mins or so after parking up from driving, the oil is nice and warm and flows much better than if the engine is stone cold.

I'd also recommend changing the crush washer on the drain plug, but you can normally get away with reusing it once depending on what it's made of. Also, if it's a magnetic drain plug, check it for swath and debris - If there's a lot, may be engine issues. Regardless, clean any off before replacing it.

 

Great thanks a lot! The drain plug check (may be engine issues) as you as you recommend is a very good Idea and it's a good example advantage of doing things ourselves.

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3 hours ago, furtula said:

Drain plug is around 35NM of force.

Always replace the washer.

And get a big bucket for the oil.

35NM I guessi guess that's hand tight + a small quarter extra push with a key.

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2 hours ago, Stivino said:

Always get the engine up to normal operating temperature, that way the dirt is held in suspension and the oil will flow out better.

Make sure you have all tools to hand before you start.  Some good cotton rags are handy too.

I like to remove the filter before I take the oil out, that way my drain basin is empty and I avoid a hot splash if I drop the filter into 5L of oil.

Remove filler cap and dipstick to let air in as the oil comes out.

 Fill with the recommended capacity and check it on level ground later.

After filling, start engine but don’t rev it until the oil light is out. (That applies every time you start an engine)  Have a good look around the sump plug and filter before putting sump guards back on.

 I very seldom replace the sump plug washer and I’ve never had one leak so, it’s nothing to worry about if you don’t have a new one.

 

The rags for shure, I know myself 😉 Filter remove before draining the oil & and do it on room tempature looks like a handy tip.  Good advice to take a good look at the sump plug and filter before putting sump guards back on.  Thanks a lot fot the advice 

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29 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Hi, good tips given here. Hybrid are slightly different though and you will need to follow an extra procedure  to set the car into maintenance mode and let the engine running for about 10-15 min but if you are working on the car after a drive and engine is hot then only need to wait 10 min to cool down a bit before you undo the plug. You can rise the car up the jack stands but if you have a car ramps is way better, gives you extra room for easier access. Good to have a quality oil filter tool, avoid Draper these does not fit in hybrids, also a breaker bar at least 60cm long , sometimes these filters are really tight and remember tighten up max 25Nm which is just as it’s stop spinning, the plug is max 35Nm, new washer is good practice. You can watch that guy if you are new to the car, he has many helpful videos . 👍

 

Thank's a lot, good to know that I have to let the engine running for about 10-15 min + break 10 min.  I didn't know the auris hybrid have maintenance mode, that I for shure have to check out firts.  And let's hope they dindn't make the filter to thight 😉

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The blue washer is reusable, the black washer is usually not reusable.  I had used mine 3x and no leaks. I have not found copper washer with rubber coating yet. I used 24mm socket becuase I have no 3/8 wrench, only 1/2 and 1/4.  I usually use jack on the right side of the car so I can open the plastic cover and fold it.  If there is no plastic cover, jack is not required, I can still grab it by hand. 

I changed oil every 10000 miles but start from 70k miles I changed it every 5000 miles with cheaper 0w-20 from Mannol 7722. It is the only onr that have external certification, VW 508/509.  Cheaper Mannol 7918 ILSAC GF6A and 7921 C5 are not certified by API, ACEA, or other institute, only self claim.  But I believe using cheap 7921 every 5 k miles is still better than the most expensive 0w-20 every 10k miles.  The 7722 and 7921 are both longlife oil 20k miles rating, both has high number of TBN.

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32 minutes ago, AisinW said:

The blue washer is reusable, the black washer is usually not reusable.  I had used mine 3x and no leaks. I have not found copper washer with rubber coating yet. I used 24mm socket becuase I have no 3/8 wrench, only 1/2 and 1/4.  I usually use jack on the right side of the car so I can open the plastic cover and fold it.  If there is no plastic cover, jack is not required, I can still grab it by hand. 

I changed oil every 10000 miles but start from 70k miles I changed it every 5000 miles with cheaper 0w-20 from Mannol 7722. It is the only onr that have external certification, VW 508/509.  Cheaper Mannol 7918 ILSAC GF6A and 7921 C5 are not certified by API, ACEA, or other institute, only self claim.  But I believe using cheap 7921 every 5 k miles is still better than the most expensive 0w-20 every 10k miles.  The 7722 and 7921 are both longlife oil 20k miles rating, both has high number of TBN.

thanks for the advice.  If you jack up the car on one side, does the oil then go better out?

I will change the oil every year and I drive 5000 miles a year so in this case it's perfect 😉 (I've got 75.000 miles count)

The oil that I use is Motul 0w20 hybrid (Is good for al Japanese cars) and the price is stil ok and is certified by API.

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16 minutes ago, Yves LR said:

If you jack up the car on one side, does the oil then go better out?

Only if the sump plug is at the side and you jack it up so that it is at the low side.

Just jack it up on either side, support it properly and you won’t go wrong.

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8 minutes ago, Stivino said:

Only if the sump plug is at the side and you jack it up so that it is at the low side.

Just jack it up on either side, support it properly and you won’t go wrong.

Thanks, As a beginner I can keep it better simpel and safe in the conventional way 😉

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Make sure you tight the filter well. Use wrench but at very mild force next to the short end. No over tight. As long as it does not drip. Leaks in filter goes really fast, in 15 s all oil is gone. I saw my friend had it in his 01 Corolla. I shouted and he stopped the engine in 10s. But only less than 0.5 L left.

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53 minutes ago, AisinW said:

Make sure you tight the filter well. Use wrench but at very mild force next to the short end. No over tight. As long as it does not drip. Leaks in filter goes really fast, in 15 s all oil is gone. I saw my friend had it in his 01 corolla. I shout and he stopped the engine in 10s. But only less than 0.5 L left.

I will use a adjustable-oil-filter-wrench for putting the new filter back on.  I was thinking to put it a little bit more than hand tight to give the wrench a small extra 2 finger push.  Thanks for the good tip!

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With the oil change, filters changes and other cheques.  I'm gonne handle also the Battery filter (I don't have Battery problems but better to prevent it) like in the movie here:

 

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Don't over do the Battery filter. It is held by thin plastic clips. You can use air blower to remove dust or fiber around it annually.   Or you can buy clip on additonal screen from Toyota dealer for about £10. 

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Just in case if you have 2.0L Corolla later or 2.5L D4-S engines with 0W-16, stick with 0W-16, do not switch to 0W-20 or worse 5W-30.  It has ECU controlled oil pump that is calibrated for 0W-16.  I do not know about newer Yaris with 0W-8.  It showed that 0W-8 with proper additives are even better on newer engines.  Don't worry about thin oil if your car is designed for it. It performs the best with it. 

https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2020-01-1425/preview/  

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/16-01-01_faq_oil-pump_eng.htm  

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Thanks for the Advice AisinW, for my Auris 0w20 is just perfect and the motul 0w20 is specialy made for japanes hybrid cars.

I agree that the safest way is just juse an airblower to remove the dust.  For the rest I'm not gone play to much an take risk with the Battery ventilator.

 

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