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2014 Toyota Yaris manual clutch problems


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Hi all. 

I'm hoping you can offer a bit of advice.

I recently purchased a 2014 Yaris which has 24k on the clock... had been running fine until 2 weeks ago when I noticed that after leaving the car overnight the clutch pedal had lost a lot of resistance/pressure and I had to pump it up 6/7 times to get it feeling normal and be able to select gears. 

I've had the whole system bled and the issue persists. The garage is now suggesting that the slave cylinder *could* be the cause and im looking at a bill of around £400 to get it replaced. However they have also admitted that this may not solve the issue and it could well be the master cylinder.... Both cylinders have been checked and are said to be as dry as a bone/no signs of leakage anywhere, and strange given the low milage on the car.

Has anyone in here had a similar problem with their Yaris that could offer some advice?

 

Much appreciated

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Well the garage actually bled the system themselves, so i'm assuming they did that correctly... besides the issue returned immediately after so very unlikely its an issue with air in the system. Thanks though

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Well in this case best to take the car to someone who can be more confident what exactly is the case and what is wrong with the car., if no leaks seen on both master and slave cylinders then eventually is the bearing if it’s hydraulic too, no idea on your particular car, and if that’s not the problem then proper procedure to bleed the air, sometimes an air locked along the system is the problem. Brake system should also be checked and bleed if they share the same brake fluid tank. Bleeding air from hydraulic system can be a tricky one, has it been a Toyota garage or independent that works on all types of cars? 

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I wonder if they just bled the system or completely changed the fluid.  If they did not change it totally it could be contaminated with water if it has not been changed for many years.

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The system was bled but no fluids changed as not deemed necessary. 

17 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Well in this case best to take the car to someone who can be more confident what exactly is the case and what is wrong with the car., if no leaks seen on both master and slave cylinders then eventually is the bearing if it’s hydraulic too, no idea on your particular car, and if that’s not the problem then proper procedure to bleed the air, sometimes an air locked along the system is the problem. Brake system should also be checked and bleed if they share the same brake fluid tank. Bleeding air from hydraulic system can be a tricky one, has it been a Toyota garage or independent that works on all types of cars? 

No it was taken to an independent garage, i wouldn't take a used car to main dealerships as they tend to be extremely £££

Thanks for the advice all, was hoping someone had comes across this exact issue and knew the cure! 

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On 1/12/2022 at 8:42 AM, lukeyaris01 said:

No the fluid levels remain the same

There are repair manuals that can be downloaded from the net and strictly following the procedure of air bleed on the hydraulic system should be done again before any parts been replaced, often the usual way of bleeding that works on older cars might not work on newer models or particularly your car for example. The garage who did work on should do it again by the book., sometimes this is all we need and once done correctly all goes back to how it was when new. 

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I would still suggest that not just bleed the system but replace the complete fluid.

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  • 1 month later...

When a clutch plate is worn, pumping a pedal can give enough clearance to operate.

A low mileage car could indicate more stop starts and dare I say an elderly owner maybe slipping the clutch.

If the box is coming out a centre plate, cover and slave should be replaced.

 

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We had, the same problem on a 2013 Yaris with only 10k on the clock. Dealer said the slave is inside the bell housing and quoted big bucks to investigate and like you, couldn’t guarantee a fix. Part exed it for a new Ford.

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