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Need help choosing between 1st and 2nd gen Yaris.


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I would need to get a 2nd car in the following months, and would like it to be a 1st or 2nd gen Yaris.

Mostly for local stuff. So i want to get something simple, mechanical, but with good MPG.

I know 1st gen has rather good mpg, but don't know much about 2nd gen.

There's a bunch of 1st gen Yaris in my area, but almost no 2nd gen.

My questions are:

1. Aside from looks, is there any big difference between 1st and 2nd gen?

2. I see the weight is similar between the two, but on wikipedia it shows that the 1l engine on 2nd gen is not the same, but a newer model, is it as mechanically sound as the one on 1st gen?

3. Regarding safe, is there any difference between the two, mostly models similar in age, let's say 2 years before and after new gen?

Appreciate the feedback.

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Mk1 also used MMT in later models (Still rubbish), Freetronic in earlier ones (Even worse) but had a torque converter for some very early ones (Very rarely seen on the market!)

If you need to carry people, the Mk2 has much better passenger room, but is larger and heavier than the Mk1 (So worse mpg generally, but not by a huge amount).

Diesel ones are the nicest to drive and most economical - 60+mpg easily done; Mk1 diesels are extremely reliable but extremely rare; Mk2 diesels more common but get less reliable the newer they are due to addition of DPF, DMF, 6-speed gearbox etc... Both attract daily fines from cities with low emissions zones.

MPG of the petrol ones is not as good but still okay - 5-10 down on the 1.0s and 10-20 down on the 1.3's. Mk1 being slightly better because it's lighter, has less frontal area and thinner tyres.

1.3L petrol engine the same in both, up to 2009 in the Mk2, where it switched to the 1.33L+6 speed used in the IQ - Only £30 to tax vs £130-155?, but has a more fragile gearbox (At least from personal experience).

1.0L is different - Mk1 uses a 4-pot, whereas Mk2 switched to the 3-pot as used in the Aygo. Both gutless but high-revving - Be fine for short runs and return decent mpg. Both proven to be very reliable if maintained (i.e. oil changes).

Mk1's will need a lot of inspection as they will be rusty AF unless looked after, esp. the rear suspension and frame.

If this is short term and you aren't going to be carting people around, Mk1. They are dead cheap now and parts are plentiful.

If you are carrying people, they will thank you for getting the Mk2 instead! :laugh: 

 

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Not sure about it being uncomfortable that is the mk1, I will call it lively. But I am always the driver, but have had 2 people, 2 baby passengers, one person between the baby seats no problem. If you want comfort get the avensis. 

But I would get the more new mk2. As I had a failed rear wheel bearing as a more new car will have less chance of things breaking down. 

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On 1/14/2022 at 9:04 PM, Cyker said:

 Where it switched to the 1.33L+6 speed used in the IQ

1.33 and the gearbox in the IQ are very different due to the cars size the diff and driveshafts are at the front

1502570858_IQmangBox.thumb.jpg.bd36d9843c23044390a919986e51d703.jpg

2141117670_IQmangBox1.thumb.jpg.a0157fdf821fd9eae8018e38ce894921.jpg

MK1 vs Mk2, it depends on if you need an auto or manual

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What i want is mainly mechanical car, with least amount of things to break down, but to have a/c, servo, and front windows electric.

Manual gearbox, 1L engine. 

Taxes, exemptions, low emission zones, etc, don't exist where i live so we can exclude.

As i mentioned, i see a bunch of mk1, but almost no mk2, but i guess they are equally reliable, just it's cheaper to get mk1 for a 2nd car to go around.

I compared the weight of both cars, but wiki only says from 950-ish to 1150-ish for both cars, so i presume not much difference between the two, with later model mk2 maybe being an exception.

Safety wise is there any difference?

Since the car will also be driven by a fairly new female driver, maybe mk1 would be a better option as i presume it might have a fair share of bumps and scrapes.

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Safety wise the MK2 is a safer car, it also has isofix mk2 1.0 is the 1KR (unless it's an early one with the 1SZ)  as found in the Yaris and Aygo parts are cheap and will last if serviced correctly both engine can suffer with timing chain rattle at higher mileage/ poor quality oil or lack of oil changes

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Couldn't say which one is safer; The Mk2 has worse visibility but more airbags. Both have very strong chassis.

Mk2 roughly 100kg heavier than Mk1 IIRC.

Mk1 need T3 or T-Spirit for front electric windows, and only T-Spirit had AC.

If emissions etc. not an issue, the diesel Mk1 T-Spirit manual is the best car - Made in japan so has the best build quality and is the most frugal. Later petrol Mk1s and all Mk2s made in france.

If must be a 1.0L manual, not much in it between the Mk1 and Mk2 TBH; With Mk1 you're looking at a T-Spirit for what you want spec-wise, then it's just a matter of finding one in good condition and not all rusty and dented :laugh: 

Mk2 has more scope for spec as all except base spec had AC and electric windows.

Likely to be easier to find a Mk2 in good condition, but as you say there are fewer to pick from it balances out between the two. Mk2 has nicer door feeling than Mk1 (Feels solid; Mk1 doors feel a bit tinny, like Mk4 doors!)

I personally like the Mk1 better than the Mk2, and if don't need to carry a car full of adults, the extra space of the Mk2 is not such a big factor (Rear passenger space of Mk2 is superlative; Better than Mk1, Mk3 and Mk4! Better than Corolla HB, CHR and Kona even!). Mk1 T-Spirit also has a sunroof and sunroofs are cool :laugh:  The trick is just finding a good one...! They are old now so harder to find one that has been looked after and not all rusty...

All things equal, Mk1 is on average more reliable than Mk2, but Mk1 has age against it so it levels out to be about equal between the two. Both very easy to work on; Mk2 engine bay dwarfs tiny 1.0L engine :laugh:  

Both quite easy to drive; Both good cars for new drivers.

 

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Taking all of this into account, i did noticed some things when checking out both models, so i guess it won't be a straight pick, but more or less on what's available and condition. 

I'll check the ads for next couple of months for a decent one as i'm not in a hurry now.

Thank you all for feedback.

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Mk1 is generally quite easy to work on and should be fairly reliable.  I had a 1.3 CDX for about 20 years.  Never let me down. Sold it recently only for wanting a 1.5 T-sport Mk1

Other than consumables, (oils and filters, brakes, belts), the only 'major' issues were rear wheel bearing and front drop links.  And cat, which was stolen unfortunately.  Otherwise extremely reliable

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On 1/14/2022 at 9:04 PM, Cyker said:

1.33L+6 speed used in the IQ

Probably has more similarities with the gearbox used in the Auris 1.33, although the Yaris box seems to have a history of more issues.

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On 1/15/2022 at 12:31 PM, furtula said:

What i want is mainly mechanical car, with least amount of things to break down, but to have a/c, servo, and front windows electric.

Manual gearbox, 1L engine. 

Taxes, exemptions, low emission zones, etc, don't exist where i live so we can exclude.

As i mentioned, i see a bunch of mk1, but almost no mk2, but i guess they are equally reliable, just it's cheaper to get mk1 for a 2nd car to go around.

I compared the weight of both cars, but wiki only says from 950-ish to 1150-ish for both cars, so i presume not much difference between the two, with later model mk2 maybe being an exception.

Safety wise is there any difference?

Since the car will also be driven by a fairly new female driver, maybe mk1 would be a better option as i presume it might have a fair share of bumps and scrapes.

It's so easy to overthink these choices. You seem to have a fairly clear idea of what you want. Just get what's available within your budget where you are. Both mk1 and mk2 are good cars that can be had in fairly basic spec. 

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My wife had a manual 5 speed Yaris Mark 2, a really reliable wee car. Try and get one with low to average mileage with full Toyota service history and you should be ok. If you’re not an experienced car owner take someone with you who is and do all the usual checks, eg, Battery tyres brakes clutch and test drive, and an underbody inspection if possible. Just to try and eliminate immediate potential problems, although they have a reliable reputation, it’s always better to check as much as possible. Good luck in your search and let us know what you have found 👍🚘.

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3 minutes ago, Bernard Foy said:

My wife had a manual 5 speed Yaris Mark 2, a really reliable wee car. Try and get one with low to average mileage with full Toyota service history and you should be ok. If you’re not an experienced car owner take someone with you who is and do all the usual checks, eg, battery tyres brakes clutch and test drive, and an underbody inspection if possible. Just to try and eliminate immediate potential problems, although they have a reliable reputation, it’s always better to check as much as possible. Good luck in your search and let us know what you have found 👍🚘.

Good,sound advice Bernard.

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5 minutes ago, john p williams said:

Good,sound advice Bernard.

JP, I forgot to add it was a 1ltr, our daughter in law is still driving it around Dublin city it is a 2008 model.

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Just now, Bernard Foy said:

JP, I forgot to add it was a 1ltr, our daughter in law is still driving it around Dublin city it is a 2008 model.

Bernard, We bought a Gen 1 Yaris 1.3CDX Auto in 2000 and gave it to our eldest daughter 5 years ago. She has just sent it to the Graveyard in the Sky,due to underbody rust.We had no problems whatsoever with it.

I endorse all you advise.

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12 minutes ago, john p williams said:

Bernard, We bought a Gen 1 Yaris 1.3CDX Auto in 2000 and gave it to our eldest daughter 5 years ago. She has just sent it to the Graveyard in the Sky,due to underbody rust.We had no problems whatsoever with it.

I endorse all you advise.

That’s the reason an underbody is recommended. I have just seen a post from a 2010 Prius owner with two horrendous holes in the axel beam😡😡.

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I will probably try to get 2003 or newer 1st gen, as i like the interior in them more as compared to original one.

Decent MK2 costs around 50% more, not sure if it's really worth it, as the only things i want from the car is drive me around, nothing fancy.

Got burned on a rust prone car once, so i will check it thoroughly when the time comes.

 

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Hi I own mk1 tsport ph2 and a mk2 sr d4d 

Both good cars but I can honestly say from experience that if I had to choose one then it would be the mark 1 no doubt! 

Thay handle better and even though only about 100kg weight difference you do notice it handling wise 

Much more space in a mk2, cheap tax and very cheap to run with diesel but I'd still choose a mk1 car yes it costs a bit more to tax and run but is much easier to work on and a pleasure to drive 

*By the way you still have to be very careful with underside rust on either car, rear & sills rear axle mounts.

most mk2 are French built apart from the 1.8sr 

Id say find a nice mk1 petrol you can't go to far wrong as long as underside is sound 

Hope that helps 

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That just confirms it, i generally like mk1 more, having that tiny car look. MK2 a bit too bloated for me.

I'll watch out for rust, i know how problematic it can be.

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Good choice when looking for the mk1 some earlier models were Japanese built, on the vin chassis number of the car on v5 or engine bay plate.

You can tell if Frenc builth it will start with VNK..... 

If jap built will start with JTD..... 

Good luck finding a car best not to rush into it and find a good one it will save you money and headaches long run 

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Slightly off topic - just wondering whether a 6 speed from a later gen Yaris would fit in a Ph1 T sport?  If so, is it a straight swop or are there major differences eg driveshafts, mounting points, clutch position etc?  Any other pointers to consider? Thanks

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TBH, the 6 speed is a weaker gearbox - also its a jap built car, early ones up to late 2002 used either C153 (LSD), C154 - later cars used the C56 these use a different clutch and flywheel the C56 has various models eg. C56-04C: Limited Slip Differential (LSD) as used in the TS Turbo (148 bhp)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_C_transmission

 

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Useful info as always Flash, appreciated.  The 04c would be next to impossible to track down i would imagine, no?

Is there any alternative you would suggest?  

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