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Has anyone else had their dealer contact them about swapping in your used Yaris for a new one for free? what did you do?


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11 hours ago, Cyker said:

The Brake Hold is a button, not a rocker switch, and you only have to press it once - When you do, it will light up HOLD on the top of the dash, and from then on if you bring the car to a *complete halt* on the footbrake, you can let go and the car will 'hold' the footbrake for you. This keeps the (very bright) LED brakelights lit, but you can leave it in D and the car won't try to push against the brakes.

That explains how to use it. 
 

Use case ? Very slow snarled up traffic, it will save wear and tear on your knee and ankle (maybe).

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My Granddaughter is learning to drive and her instructor's Fiesta has hill start assist. Apparently it is allowed on the driving test. She has recently bought a KA without any fancy pants assistance and a proper handbrake. They are not taught to use a handbrake now, even when stopped at a junction or traffic lights,only when parking.

I went out with her driving last weekend. You guessed it, stopped on a hill. I had to intervene with the handbrake because the car started rolling back. She has been taught to stop on a hill and apply footbrake. Then when moving off rely on this hill thing, release footbrake and move off by swapping right foot to accelerator pedal and releasing the clutch. I think that's wrong in so many ways.

She did stop at an inclined junction and stalled. That resulted in the car rolling forward partially into a main road because no use of handbrake, as used to be taught, handbrake on, into neutral and restart.

Pass test with all these gizmos then buy a car without - time to re-learn.

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22 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Nothing beats the old school manual handbrake and manual gearbox., when we are talking about a quick reaction in an emergency situation or just for the fun factor on those snowing days and empty roads and car parks 🏎🏁🍩 for Toyota hybrids best start hill assist is your left foot on brake and right foot on accelerator, this also reminds me how nice was to drive a manual car sometimes (full control) 😉

And my dealer didn’t contact me at all for some reason 😂

WAit till you get old!

An auto is a must for me ( I was 24 half a century ago 🥵)

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2 minutes ago, Madasafish said:

WAit till you get old!

An auto is a must for me ( I was 24 half a century ago 🥵)

Agreed 👍 I am driving a hybrid and won’t trade it for any manual but I drive a lot and sometimes in worst possible traffic jams in uk , manual is great for occasional driving only 🏁👌

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Hill start is a recent thing so shouldn't be solely relied on and drivers should know how to use a manual handbrake.

That said, does it mean that everyone should be learning to drive in an older car?

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25 minutes ago, HYS5 said:

Haha does this apply to an 08 yaris trade in for a new one ?

 

For sure you will get a better trade in price then you would say 9 months ago, but that’s the best you will get on a 08 Yaris

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Currently only make sense to trade in used for new, because buying another used the price will be so much inflated that will wipe any eventual earnings from the old car part ex increase. , or perhaps do not buy anything and try to stick to what you have for at least 2 more years. 👍

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11 hours ago, mrpj1 said:

My Granddaughter is learning to drive and her instructor's Fiesta has hill start assist. Apparently it is allowed on the driving test. She has recently bought a KA without any fancy pants assistance and a proper handbrake. They are not taught to use a handbrake now, even when stopped at a junction or traffic lights,only when parking.

I went out with her driving last weekend. You guessed it, stopped on a hill. I had to intervene with the handbrake because the car started rolling back. She has been taught to stop on a hill and apply footbrake. Then when moving off rely on this hill thing, release footbrake and move off by swapping right foot to accelerator pedal and releasing the clutch. I think that's wrong in so many ways.

She did stop at an inclined junction and stalled. That resulted in the car rolling forward partially into a main road because no use of handbrake, as used to be taught, handbrake on, into neutral and restart.

Pass test with all these gizmos then buy a car without - time to re-learn.

It's shocking that they would teach a hill-start like that!

Doing a hill-start the proper way in a manual is all part of learning clutch-control!

The epiphany for me when I was learning was when I was practising hill starts - After stalling for the umpteenth time, my instructor had me park up on the hill, handbrake on, then take the weight of the car on the clutch and throttle alone, then disengaged the handbrake and had me hold it there for 10 seconds.

Then I had to creep up the hill to a nearby post box and stop, using nothing but the clutch, hold it for a second, then roll back down to where we were and stop, again using nothing but the clutch. When I got the hang of it we went to an even steeper hill and did it again!

Was probably murder on the clutch, but getting the hang of doing that in a gutless Corsa and being able to do it on even a steep hill was a point of pride for me and I think made me a much better driver as it taught me how to feel what the car is doing and balance the forces flowing through the transmission instinctively, freeing up brain time for spotting suicidal pedestrians and the like :laugh: .

It's the one thing that saddens me about having the Mk4 hybrid, as all that training and experience is now redundant!

 

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On 2/23/2022 at 10:09 PM, CPN said:

Aha! Does anyone know where the "slap-head" emoji is? 😉 I don't think that I have ever felt the need to use that "Hold" button! 🤣😂

Update: Having re-read the manual (Page 187) about the "Hold" button functionality, I am really not sure what the use case for it is? Can anyone enlighten me?

I use it all the time. Once you've pressed the hold button, you'll see 'hold' on the dashboard screen illuminated. Now, whenever you stop (lights, junction, crossing, etc.), the car will automatically stay stopped (without you engaging the EPB or keeping your foot on the brake) until you again apply pressure to the accelerator. 
As soon as you touch the accelerator, off you go. It's very handy in slow moving traffic or when stopping on inclines.
Only time I tend to switch it off is sometimes when parking, as that useful 'creep forwards' in Drive isn't as effective as the car may keep stopping. 
The Hold function switches itself off once the car is powered off and you will need to operate the hold button again, next time you start up. 

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14 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Currently only make sense to trade in used for new, because buying another used the price will be so much inflated that will wipe any eventual earnings from the old car part ex increase. , or perhaps do not buy anything and try to stick to what you have for at least 2 more years. 👍

High price on the trade in plus a new car with the warranty and road side assistance is a very hard offer to turn down.  In my case the 'new' car was an ex demonstrator for the princely sum of £495 so it really was a question of taking the offer while it was there.  In my case the change was from a nine year old car with 35,000 on the clock to a six month old with 1400 on the clock.  It was a down size from a CRV to a Aygo but it was the sort of change I was looking to do but the plan was for next year or it was until this chance opened up.  A year down the road I might be able to see if this was the right decision to make but I doubt it.  Words like gift, horse and mouth springs to mind at the moment.

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14 hours ago, Cyker said:

 

It's shocking that they would teach a hill-start like that!

Doing a hill-start the proper way in a manual is all part of learning clutch-control!

The epiphany for me when I was learning was when I was practising hill starts - After stalling for the umpteenth time, my instructor had me park up on the hill, handbrake on, then take the weight of the car on the clutch and throttle alone, then disengaged the handbrake and had me hold it there for 10 seconds.

Then I had to creep up the hill to a nearby post box and stop, using nothing but the clutch, hold it for a second, then roll back down to where we were and stop, again using nothing but the clutch. When I got the hang of it we went to an even steeper hill and did it again!

Was probably murder on the clutch, but getting the hang of doing that in a gutless Corsa and being able to do it on even a steep hill was a point of pride for me and I think made me a much better driver as it taught me how to feel what the car is doing and balance the forces flowing through the transmission instinctively, freeing up brain time for spotting suicidal pedestrians and the like :laugh: .

It's the one thing that saddens me about having the Mk4 hybrid, as all that training and experience is now redundant!

 

I learned to drive on a car with syncro mesh gears and then bought a 1929 Riley 9 Monaco with no synchromesh at all and had to learn how to double declutch. That was interesting.🥵

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I can't even imagine all the *krrrrkr KRRRKRR RKRRRRK* noises I would have made trying to drive such a thing!! :laugh: 

17 hours ago, AlJ said:

I use it all the time. Once you've pressed the hold button, you'll see 'hold' on the dashboard screen illuminated. Now, whenever you stop (lights, junction, crossing, etc.), the car will automatically stay stopped (without you engaging the EPB or keeping your foot on the brake) until you again apply pressure to the accelerator. 
As soon as you touch the accelerator, off you go. It's very handy in slow moving traffic or when stopping on inclines.
Only time I tend to switch it off is sometimes when parking, as that useful 'creep forwards' in Drive isn't as effective as the car may keep stopping. 
The Hold function switches itself off once the car is powered off and you will need to operate the hold button again, next time you start up. 

Another good thing about the Brake Hold is it disengages *MUCH* faster than the EPB - Where the EPB has to very slowly unscrew the caliper clamps, which takes nearly a second to fully disengage, the brake hold just releases hydraulic pressure, so you can get off the line soooo much faster with the Brake Hold :naughty: 

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3 hours ago, Cyker said:

I can't even imagine all the *krrrrkr KRRRKRR RKRRRRK* noises I would have made trying to drive such a thing!! :laugh: 

Another good thing about the Brake Hold is it disengages *MUCH* faster than the EPB - Where the EPB has to very slowly unscrew the caliper clamps, which takes nearly a second to fully disengage, the brake hold just releases hydraulic pressure, so you can get off the line soooo much faster with the Brake Hold :naughty: 

Very true and it also stops that bad habit some people have of resting their foot on the accelerator. If you do that, you're away! 😁

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Back to the original thread heading and a thread resurrection!

I received an invitation, yesterday, through the mail, from the dealer from whom I bought my car, 8 years ago.

I am, according to them, an A - List customer?:laugh:

This is for a special event later this month for a great deal on a new Toyota and a trade in offer which will be hard to beat at current used car prices.

No thanks. When I do change it will not be a Toyota because I do not like any of their current new car offerings. That's not price related but aesthetics, which, of course, is subjective.

Also not impressed with component quality. The latest "casualty" is the high level l.e.d. brake light. Failure of l.e.d.s., only two out of five now working. Strange all the original incandescent lamps are still illuminating and a tiny fraction of the brake light financially when replacement is needed!

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3 minutes ago, mrpj1 said:

Back to the original thread heading and a thread resurrection!

I received an invitation, yesterday, through the mail, from the dealer from whom I bought my car, 8 years ago.

I am, according to them, an A - List customer?:laugh:

This is for a special event later this month for a great deal on a new Toyota and a trade in offer which will be hard to beat at current used car prices.

No thanks. When I do change it will not be a Toyota because I do not like any of their current new car offerings. That's not price related but aesthetics, which, of course, is subjective.

Also not impressed with component quality. The latest "casualty" is the high level l.e.d. brake light. Failure of l.e.d.s., only two out of five now working. Strange all the original incandescent lamps are still illuminating and a tiny fraction of the brake light financially when replacement is needed!

I moved form Honda back to Toyota to buy the Aygo, I was happy with Honda and the local main dealers but nothing in their present line us provided what I wanted.  

I did have a few failures on the Honda CRV which were covered under warranty strangely that included the high level brake light that never made it to it's forth birthday.

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4 hours ago, mrpj1 said:

Back to the original thread heading and a thread resurrection!

I received an invitation, yesterday, through the mail, from the dealer from whom I bought my car, 8 years ago.

I am, according to them, an A - List customer?:laugh:

This is for a special event later this month for a great deal on a new Toyota and a trade in offer which will be hard to beat at current used car prices.

No thanks. When I do change it will not be a Toyota because I do not like any of their current new car offerings. That's not price related but aesthetics, which, of course, is subjective.

Also not impressed with component quality. The latest "casualty" is the high level l.e.d. brake light. Failure of l.e.d.s., only two out of five now working. Strange all the original incandescent lamps are still illuminating and a tiny fraction of the brake light financially when replacement is needed!

But you know all makes and models are affected of this trends of poor quality parts and components plus poor fit and finish. Rushed manufacturing and fast too fast to fulfil quotas is a major player along with other factors like pandemic and now the war., shortages of everything. 

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4 hours ago, mrpj1 said:

.No thanks. When I do change it will not be a Toyota because I do not like any of their current new car offerings. That's not price related but aesthetics, which, of course, is subjective.

Also not impressed with component quality. The latest "casualty" is the high level l.e.d. brake light. Failure of l.e.d.s., only two out of five now working. Strange all the original incandescent lamps are still illuminating and a tiny fraction of the brake light financially when replacement is needed!

Year 2014, must be some in scrappers yard you can get the part from. At least it could increase value/desirability when you decide to sell.

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Trade in your Mk3 and get a Mk4!! :naughty: 

 

Those lights should also be covered by Relax warranty tho'.

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18 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

But you know all makes and models are affected of this trends of poor quality parts and components plus poor fit and finish. Rushed manufacturing and fast too fast to fulfil quotas is a major player along with other factors like pandemic and now the war., shortages of everything. 

I agree Tony. At present, for me, and financially, it's still worth keeping this car going.

I think when the Multidrive eventually poops the bed it will be game over. However, Toyota's C.V.T. appear to be somewhat better than others? That's jinxed it!

Out of curiosity, and I know they would reduce their offer on inspection, I checked W.B.A.C. and was very surprised at their offer price. I was as accurate as possible re condition, age, servicing and mileage. In fact, I don't think the offer was correct?

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