Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Toyota Auris Hybrid Flat Battery


W SMITH
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all 

I have a 2016 Auris Tourer Hybrid on which the 12 volt Battery has died.  I have trickle charged the Battery for around 12 hours through the red positive charging point in the fuse box. Car now has sufficient juice in Battery to light up all dashboard indicators, but engine does not start when I go through normal start up procedure [NB PUSH BUTTON START].

Can anyone offer advice on how to start engine.

 

Thanks in advance 

W. SMITH

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Have you measured the 12v Battery voltage after completing the charging process? Also what charge level of the hybrid Battery is displayed on screen? The engine starts from the hybrid Battery, but if your 12v battery is weak and not able to run diagnostic and to pressurise the brake system the car will not start (set itself in ready mode) and so you are not able to drive the car. If all is ok, lock the car, then unlock press the brake pedal firmly and push start button, if lights up but doesn’t start release brake pedal then press it again and push start button again and should work. , if not repeat procedure but push the start button with your key fob instead of a finger. 
Good luck 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi    thanks for your help. I have now got the Auris to run , mainly by giving it extra time on the trickle charger.   However I now have another problem - the central locking does not work. Can lock and unlock car [all doors] with key , but no joy on remote fob and I am fairly sure batter on fob is ok.

One other question - what voltage should I expect across the 12 v Battery terminals and how do I ascertain if batter is done for or ok 

 

Thanks in advance to you all for your invaluable assistance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, W SMITH said:

Hi    thanks for your help. I have now got the Auris to run , mainly by giving it extra time on the trickle charger.   However I now have another problem - the central locking does not work. Can lock and unlock car [all doors] with key , but no joy on remote fob and I am fairly sure batter on fob is ok.

One other question - what voltage should I expect across the 12 v battery terminals and how do I ascertain if batter is done for or ok 

 

Thanks in advance to you all for your invaluable assistance

Hi, 

The 12v Battery measured after unlocking the car should be 12.4v or above and when starting the car remain above 11v, as as far as I know if below 11v will not start the car ( all that by memory and not 100% sure), perhaps someone else will confirm or make a note with correct digits. If you are not able to start the car again after two days after you had fully charge it then most likely you will need a new 12v Battery. The key fob Battery can be tricky, sometimes even new they have not enough power to operate but when measured they shows healthy 3.0v, best to replace with new quality one with long expiry date bought from someone who sells a lot and the stock is fresh., Amazon for example. There are some other guys with better experience about electronics and batteries and they might soon give you even better advice. 
Regards 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a new remote Battery. I believe CR2025. For 12V Battery, if it has been depleted to the point it cannot start the car 60 Amps load,  the 12V Battery is dying.  

Just get a new Yuasa S34b20r AGM battery for your safety and peace of mind. It is not cheap, £170+ but it will not spill or hurt anyone inside the car in case of accident.  

Don't expect resurrecting 12V battery from permanent sulphation damage. Anytime it drops below 11.8 V, the damage is permanent. It is good to have the battery above 12.4V open voltage or about 12.3 when connected to the car all the time. Sulphation starts at about 12.4V but still recoverable as long as it is above 11.8V by trickle charging, pulse charging, etc. 

For occasional usage, gets Lidl or Aldi 5A, they are as good as CTEK5 in terms internal component quality. Don't buy it from unknow brands in Amazon. The voltage controller are wild and unfiltered RF radiation. 

NOCO 5 is similar price to CTEK5 but with better internal components, switches, and heat management. Noco stop at 14.6V with AGM battery, slightly lower than CTEK5 14.8V.  Aldi and  Lidl  is  15-15.4 V. They are all within a good safe range. I prefer below 15V because overcharging degrade battery from hydrolysis. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought about the key fob Battery - the flat disc cell.  Use some sort of disposable gloves or plastic tweezers when handling.  If you use your 'naked' fingertips you 1) put grease on the Battery contacts and 2) put some resistance across the terminals and draw an unhealthy amount of current for such a small Battery - and shorten its life.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your comments they are much appreciated. Had Battery on trickle charge for around 13 hours so hope that will have negated sulphation problem although Battery was flat for a time before trickle charge. Have checked voltage across terminals on existing Battery and it is reading 12.7V . Having battery checked later today at Main Dealer.  Have not yet managed to sort central locking problem , will try to change battery in remote and see if that makes any difference. Will let you all know the results in due course.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After trickled charged, you can press the power button 2x without pressing the brake pedals (IGN ON).  You can remove the surface charge by turn the headlight on for 1 minute and turn it off,   after that you measure the voltage on the terminal again.  It should be above 11.5 V when the headlights off.   If you can still start the car in the next morning without problem, your Battery is still usable. Don't worry to change it too early if it can still hold the charge after  2 or 3 days.   The AGM Battery eventually degrade and can have lower and lower capacity but still usable for years.  My first replacement was 8 years 200 000 miles.  

Battery testing is not hard. You can use your car and Voltmeter or OBD2 scanner. With (IGN ON), 2X power button, you can check the voltage on the fly as you turn the headlights or  AC blower motors. The voltage should hold above 10.5 V all the time.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Morning all   Up date on central locking / Battery problems :- Battery is going on overnight pulse charge tonight which hopefully will resolve issues. Central locking actually ok problem is remote key fob which works ignition sequence but will not unlock or lock central locking. Main dealer is to investigate key problem as at this stage they do not understand why it only partially works

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I believe ECU and body ECU is covered under Relax Warranty.  The infotainment is not under Relax warranty.  You need to disconnect the Battery from the car with pulse charge or "plasebo" reconditioning pulse charging.  Usually it goes at very high voltage, often above 16 V pulse.  It will give you false hope by getting high open voltage but once it is under load or after surface charge removal (1 minute headlights on), the voltage will go back to typical Battery 12-12.6V Off, 11.5-12V IGN ON.  

Just for your information, we have no single measurable capacity gain with pulse charging method when the Battery is already degrading.   Trickle high voltage desulphation will make a dead battery usable for couple more weeks but will harm normal battery because it cause hydrolisis and you lost some water at the same time as the desulphation is being done. Unfortunately, desulphation does not really work on AGM battery. 

You can still keep the old battery as long as the battery can hold the charge for 1 week or more, and it can start the car without problem.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all   AURIS  has now had full overnight pulse battery  charge at main dealer.

The main dealer reports that Battery is now in good condition!!

On the question of the key dealer says key is kaput and cannot be re - programmed. They quoted me £316 + programming costs for a replacement key.  As my car is cover by "TOYOTA RELAX" I assumed that key would be replaced under warranty the dealer says not. The info. I have on Toyota Relax states on one of its bullet points " Full parts and labour cover".

Has anyone experience of "TOYOTA RELAX" and if so can they offer any advice on how to overcome the above detailed problem.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, W SMITH said:

The info. I have on Toyota Relax states on one of its bullet points " Full parts and labour cover".

You need to look at the full terms and conditions rather than assume everything is covered - see attached.

Toyota Relax TCs - 25.05.21_tcm-3060-2286757.pdf

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, be careful with Relax Warranty that I decided not to have it.  It does not cover common components failures (rubber, bush, shocks, pads, 12V, infotainment, exhaust system, 02 sensor, catalytic converter, etc. It is just money maker for Toyota dealership for its marked up annual maintenance.

I only keep the 10-15 years hybrid Battery warranty by only pay €30 for annual hybrid system check. I have to pay extra €200 marked up oil change price and additional €200 (brake fluid change)  every other year if I compared it with DIY. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, it clearly lists the "Remote Controls in Keys" as being covered under the Electrical section...

Maybe print out Frosty's attachment, highlight that part and show it to the dealer

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I agree. It is body ECU system related. It is supposed to be free. Call Toyota national costumer service and ask for help to argue with the dealership. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi   everyone thank you all [particularly FROSTYBALLS] for your assistance - after emailing main dealer with copies of Toyota Relax  and asking them to reconsider their decision they have now agreed [rather reluctantly] to make a claim on Toyota for a replacement key.   After 3 weeks and some exertion of pressure on the main dealer they have now supplied and programmed a replacement key so 7 weeks down the road with leverage exerted the main dealer has completed the job. 

Makes one wonder if Toyota Relax is worth the trouble.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank for reporting back with your results! :thumbsup: 

Glad they honoured the warranty - As I said it very clearly says the remote key was covered so it was wrong for them to reject it; Clearly they haven't fully read the relax warranty terms!! :laugh: 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share





×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership