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Supercharger Or Turbo?


CozmoNz
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After thinking about... n/a seems quite crap... especially here in nz with low octane fuels.

(road legal fuels)

So... supercharge or turbo the bi0tch?

turbo requires:

Turbo,

After Market ECU,

Intercooler,

Bov,

External Wastegate,

Custom Exhaust manifold,

Turbo Downpipe,

Boost Control,

High Flow 440cc Injectors,

Turbo Timer (every peice counts),

Intercooler piping (expensive!),

Oil Cooler,

Low Compression forged pistons,

Vac/Boost Guage,

Oil Press Guage (vvt thrives on oil pressure, so do turbs).

anything else the turbo route requires?

Supercharger route:

Supercharger,

Intercooler,

Intercooler Piping,

High Flow 440cc Injectors,

After market ECU,

Vac/Boost Guage,

Oil Press Guage (vvt thrives on oil pressure, so do turbs).

seems all eyes point towards supercharing the beast... so what do you lot think?

Im also thinking of things i can put on the car, without changing either course, eg after market ecu, can be put on, and both routes can be chosen (at a later date), so i can run the n/a with the ecu, then change to a supercharger and just retune the ecu. What else is there? pistons obviously, but that would lead to very slow and crap running... without boost anyway .

cmon man not TO many negitive comments.

and if i forgotten something with either route, tell me and ill add it

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Damn you really got the bases covered...

I was thinking of going the Turbo route, but was advised that since my engine has issues to have them sorted first. But I think you have it. You just have to decide on the specifics of each part. And that is what takes the time. But I would reccomend the Turbo... more bang even though it may cost a bit more. And you seem to me to be quite serious of getting the most out of the car.

My Turbo project was along the lines of another fellow who did a light pressure system 5-8psi using alot of the stock mechanicals... pistons, ECU etc. How much boost were you looking for??? Or I should say how much of a gain in performance did you want???

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looking at a boost pressure of 8psi on turbo, and 9psi on supercharger at full load (prolly 6,800 rpm)

but alas...

i dont know... i really dont know this is driving me crazy, maybe i should just do n/a!?!

argh!!!

um, power gain.. ive seen a blacktop 20v with 217 wheel horsepower... thats with a turbo on 8psi.

bah, first things first.. ill just get an aftie ecu, that way i can tune the fuel and ignition map easily :D

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instead of modding the current engine .. why not do an engine swap ?

then you have two populat choices the 4a-gze (SCed Levin or MR2 1.6 engine ..) or the 3s-gte (Turbo'ed MR2 or GT4 2.0 engine).

Then at least you'll have pistons, con rods etc that you know are up to the job. And you don't need to change the cams either .. as they'll be designed for forced induction.

Olny issue I'd say is that both these engines require good octane as standard .. so you may need to adjust the timing for the lower stuff.

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or you could put your 20v head on a $agze block.which already has pistons that will take up to 15psi stock..and the block has better cooling too..that wil give you the best of both worlds :)

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While were on the subject of blowing engines... I'm looking at a 4A-GZE with a 15lb pulley kit. I realise that the intercooler will need to be front mounted but what about the supercharger. The 1G-GZE unit has been recommended but what about the 2.4l estima one. I'm just concerned that the factory unit will just superheat the charge air too much at this level of boost.

Any ideas...?

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i seem to recall that the standard charger will take 18psi..but i could be wrong...best thing is to get that front mount on..theres a guy on eBay who does nice big front mounts that are universal..:)

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nitrous. gives you full control to have boost when you want it.

up to 75bhp increase if u want to stay sensible.

my stock bhp is 149. i run 50hp jets and achieve 205bhp. B)

if u want to power up your n/a.

lighten flywheel

cam kit

forged pistons

lighten rods

metal gaskets

fuel pressure regulator upgrade

full port and polish

3" exhaust

cold air induction kit

however, i do know of ofsome people who have tried this, dyno'd and found no increase - although throttle response is awsome and 0-60 times are quickened.

or just swap in a JDM beams 3sge - altezza/celica/mr2 (200BHP stock n/a) or JDM gen 3 3SGTE (240bhp stock - gen 6 celica)

the 3sgte has potential of up to 600BHP safely if u want to hit 0-60 in sub 5 seconds.

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Carlos! you are an angel

the 3sgte what im interested in!

(love mr2 turbos too), but alas, will it fit in a direct swap?!

does it all bolt up? can i keep my tranny? (this means i could put a 6sp in and have a 6sp 3sgte :D)

bascially, what do i ned to get a 3sgte into my bay!

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well il be doing the 4AGZE and silvertop hybrid myself in september time..so lets hope its all running for Jap Performance :) I like to practise what I preach.......and the ae92 truneo that i just got for £380 with 4agze will def help too!!

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Hey... with no real interest in the sale of my Celica I am lookin at just ditching the rebuilt GZE idea and using what I have to power up an AE92 levin... Does anyone have any experience in this... I know its been done into the FX's but what gearbox is used (I have complete GT4 car) and is there any major modification needed in terms of mounts, clearance, driveshafts etc or is this too much trouble? I am willing to go the GTZ route but the $$$ arent there for the Celica. Is the 3S-GTE worth the hassle???

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On the topic, if no-one buys my GT4 Im just goin to rebuild the engine and drop it into a AE92 levin. I know people have done the FX-GT conversion but are interested in ...

Which FWD gearbox to use

Mounts (custom or otherwise)

Actual fit into bay area (any mods needed)

Anything else to consider bearing in mind that I have a complete ST185 already just on in the K's a bit and I'm sick of weight and 4WD sucking my power.

Anyone done a RWD conversion on one???!!! madness with 200+ thru the rear wheels!!!!!!

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dont know if it will fit up with your tranny??

why dont you fit x2 10lb Nitrous bottles in the boot - fit forged pistons - port and polish - Iridium spark plugs - upgraded plug leads for definite resistance - fit an upgraded gauged fuel regulator - !Removed! by 4 - 5 degrees - run 100hp jets with a wet full throttle set up. your fuel bills remain unchanged, boost at your leisure.

A switch on the throttle body completes a circuit and two solenoids open directly into the pre throttlebody pipe/tube, fuel and N20 is directly injected, this is allcontrolled by a switch on the dash, you get 100BHP increase whilst you throttle is wideopen, I assume you have a Toyota EFi system, which probably operates for high end torque around 3500rpm, your 3rd gear will feel like second gear and will pull up to 8000rpm. run highest octane fuel you can get 97 - 99 ron.

Rough prices in US Dollar - a currency everyone understands

Nitrous kit (with additional bottle andlink up braided hoe to main line) - $450

Iridium sparks - $70

Plug leads - $150

Gauged Fuel regulator - $100 - 125

Port and polish - $250 - 300(manifold - efi system - throttle body)

forged pistons - $250

total $1285

Cost of a 3SGTE swap - $3-4K

N20 begins to make sense doesnt it.

A 140BHP stock n/a can hit 240BHP at the flick of a switch and will leave little brown stains in yer boxer shorts :yes:

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  • 1 month later...

If I was doing this I would get a 4A-GZE bottom end and get that rebuilt with all of the usual mods (Nitriding and stress reliving the crank, shotpeen and balance the rods etc.), swap the slivertop 20v head onto it and then bolt up a roller bearing turbo of about T28 size to it. Run 10Psi of boost and use a link plus to sort the injection.

You now have a ~210bhp engine with a fat torque band and a 6 speed box (Use a BZ-R box if you can, LSD standard)

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