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12v Battery on 1.8 Hybrid.


Kental
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when driving:

only the car lights ensure a sufficient charge of the car Battery (the sidelights are enough) = 14.2V
without car lights = 12.8V-13V

 

Turning-on-car-headlights-small.jpg

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8 hours ago, Roy124 said:

Car unlocked I get a blinking red light above left indicator arrow.  Locked car and it went steady red.  After a short interval it resumed blinking red. 

In the latter case it presumably indicates alarm but when the car is unlocked? 

The red light is for both the alarm & the immobiliser.

Get out & leave it unlocked - it blinks to show the immobiliser is armed.

Get out & lock the vehicle with the remote, the red light stays on while the alarm system is arming / checking the interior cabin sensors before the alarm system is fully armed & the red light flashes again.

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  • 1 year later...

I think the different reports of how long the car can be left and then started is dependent on the utility Battery condition, they will gradually deteriate over time.

All cars have a sacrificial current when turned off..to keep memories live, even the clock

Maybe we should put windy handles back like the 1950s😄

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Dan, how about a highly geared, foot operated dynamo to provide 12v DC?

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Maybe they should just get rid of the 12v Battery and put in one of Trevor Bayliss' windup clockwork dynamos! :laugh: 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was reading through this thread again because I am due a holiday soon.  Instead of using trickle chargers or solar panels, why can we not just disconnect the Battery when we go away and then there will be no parasitic currents going in to the system and the Battery should last a great deal longer, depending on condition 

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1 hour ago, Roker said:

 Instead of using trickle chargers or solar panels, why can we not just disconnect the battery when we go away and then there will be no parasitic currents going in to the system and the battery should last a great deal longer, depending on condition 

The solution?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155497907138

image.thumb.png.d6247915497ed776948e7795c0b954df.png image.thumb.png.16222a5c0c2bd69df0ca44a4f8ea37bd.png

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Well, I wouldn't trust some piece of eBay jank, but there are MSA/FIA-approved 12v isolators that do the same job so could be an option!

 

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