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Front right tire locks up - Rav 4


Warlizzard
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Hello from Norway.

What i thought was a worn break caliper turned out to be something i have never experienced before. I replaced the caliper and nothing changed. I took the caliper off and tried with hand power and turn the "Gear Hubs (?)", the thing the disc rests on. After about 20 minutes, what is causing the lockup is letting go a little bit, but after a test run, and if i break, the tire lockup once more and i get the dashboard light warning (see image).

What could be the cause of this?

Thanks

2022-04-19_19h40_49.png

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11 minutes ago, IanML said:

Damaged CV joint?

After about 20 minutes it loosens up and is "like new". I can drive like normal if i don't press the breaks to hard, however medium to hard breaking causes the lockup and the error in the dashboard. Wouldn't a broken CV joint have a more "permanent" effect to it? I'm going to have a look at the ABS rings in the morning, perhaps this is the reason, tho i think it's wierd it's not causing any breaking vibration while the lockup happens. I've checked the ABS censors, and they look like new, but yeah, i don't really know since i don't have any experience with this spesific issue.

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Air/contamination/obstruction in the brake line? Contaminated pads/discs? Worn pads/discs? Brake balance problem? ABS fuse? One tyre more worn than the others?

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1 hour ago, Cyker said:

Air/contamination/obstruction in the brake line? Contaminated pads/discs? Worn pads/discs? Brake balance problem? ABS fuse? One tyre more worn than the others?

I can remove the entire caliper and it's impossible to turn the wheel and the caliper doesn't get stuck either. I changed the rear Discs, pads and break calipers 4-5 months ago and i aired the break lines. Tire on the affected area isn't more worn than the others either. I have not checked the ABS fuse.

This started to happen out of the blue today and not over time. It almost feels like the right drive chaft get's stuck after breaking somehow, but i'm to unexperienced to make a call like this.

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Well, my theory is a broken ball in the CV joint.  When the torque being transmitted reverses (i.e. when you brake) the joint is jammed and can no longer allow the rotation.  When you manipulate it, the broken part moves into the correct position, so it's ok till the next time.

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Yikes, if it is jammed with the brakes removed that's a bit more serious!

I think Ian's theory is worth investigating, although I've not come across such a failure before except when the wheel has been subjected to a high shock (i.e. crashing into something!)

Could also be a bearing or gearbox/differential problem??

 

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18 hours ago, IanML said:

Well, my theory is a broken ball in the CV joint.  When the torque being transmitted reverses (i.e. when you brake) the joint is jammed and can no longer allow the rotation.  When you manipulate it, the broken part moves into the correct position, so it's ok till the next time.

It was sunny today. I spent a lot of time with the car. I took it for a spin and made the wheel lockup. I removed the caliper on both sides and put the wheels back on. Where it stands it's only a few degrees so it can roll for a few meters. After 10-20 minutes it starts to let go and one can hear it happen as well, little by little.

I also tried, which the calipers off on both sides to turn the engine on and hit the brakes. About midway through the same error lamp turns on, and the wheel can't be turned by hand at all. Left wheel is a bit hard to turn as well, but not impossible like the right one.

I also removed the ABS fuses, which almost solved the problem. After braking one can feel something is stuck, but it's not nearly as stuck as it used to be with the fuses installed.

I also put polished the front calipers and the pins, flushed them and put new grease inside and they are really smooth, so the calipers can't the reason for the stickyness either.

Is there something that can lockup the front drivechaft like this? I noticed you mentioned differential and i'm guessing this is the "thing" in the middle which makes the chafts turn(?). But wouldn't both chafts lockup if this was the case, or are they independent from each other?

Anywho, in a couple of days i'l remove the ABS fuses and drive it to a mechanic since i have absolutley no idea what is going on.

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The car is "seeing" a fault and setting a warning light, there will be a DTC ( Diagnostic trouble code ) set and stored in the cars memory, what is the code?

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