Yaris 2017-2019: remote open/close windows & rear fog light

[Vins213]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

The LED is fitted to the Yaris, Corolla - 2018 onwards, maybe the CH-R

it seems to be in short supply

 

It is also available here https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=8158A0D610

I can fit a female join and take the black/red wires from the other led fog...maybe I will do this, I have to study the lens cover that is on the external view (the fake one has a lens clipped on the black plate)


Today I think I will install the windows mod, I have to search something for the very last mod that I would: the follow me DRL with remote opening 😪

 

Thanks @FROSTYBALLS for changing the title 😊

[Vins213]

Here we are! I need help again...

in photos there are instruction manual for the power window module, I checked  the wires and:

Driver side front window DOWN: from module yellow wire to green 5 (master switch)
Driver side front window UP: from yellow/red to red 8

Passenger side front window DOWN: from orange to rose 15
Passenger side front window UP: from orange/purple to white 16

Driver side rear window DOWN: from gray to black 13
Driver side rear window UP: from gray/black to yellow 12

Passenger side rear window DOWN: from blue to green 18
Passenger side rear window UP: from blue/brown to red 10

 

Now I have to cook for lunch 🤣 
Then I have to find:

NEGATIVE LOCK
POSITIVE LOCK
ACC ON/OFF
12V +
12V -
TOP WINDOW NEGATIVE TRIGGER (??)

[flash22]

NEGATIVE LOCK
POSITIVE LOCK

you don't need both, just one, you can find this at the door lock motor plug, pin 1 or 4 (changes polarity for lock/unlock)

ACC ON/OFF - you will have to install a wire from the door into the car and pick up an ECU-IG or ACC 12v - you can find this at the mirror switch pin 21 (ACC 3C, pin 26)

12V Positive - Pin 3 of the window switch - change the fuse in the cable coming from the module to 5 amp
12V Ground - White/black pin 1 of the window switch
TOP WINDOW NEGATIVE TRIGGER (??)  this is for a sunroof

[Vins213]

You are a hero

[Vins213]

22 hours ago, flash22 said:

change the fuse in the cable coming from the module to 5 amp

Question: why this change?

[flash22]

3 hours ago, Vins213 said:

Question: why this change?

The interface is designed for direct motor control, On many modern cars the switches are a low current control circuits so don't require the high current/amperage - a lower amp fuse is a safety thing either 5 or 7.5 amp fuse will do

[Vins213]

Just now, flash22 said:

The interface is designed for direct motor control, On many modern cars the switches are a low current control circuits so don't require the high current/amperage - a lower amp fuse is a safety thing either 5 or 7.5 amp fuse will do

Thanks for the explanation 😊

[Vins213]

On 4/29/2022 at 5:10 PM, flash22 said:

The interface is designed for direct motor control, On many modern cars the switches are a low current control circuits so don't require the high current/amperage - a lower amp fuse is a safety thing either 5 or 7.5 amp fuse will do

Uhm, I have installed a 7.5A, all the windows work from the main control BUT a little smoke when I have pushed the down window left front (driver side)...the white wire (3 on master switch led control) connected with the red one (+12V) is a little burned

 

Now I am in panic

[flash22]

did you tap the correct wires for the driver's window - have you blown any fuses ??

[Vins213]

Just now, flash22 said:

did you tap the correct wires for the driver's window - have you blown any fuses ??

I have followed the scheme on this message 

 

On 4/28/2022 at 11:46 AM, Vins213 said:

Here we are! I need help again...

in photos there are instruction manual for the power window module, I checked  the wires and:

Driver side front window DOWN: from module yellow wire to green 5 (master switch)
Driver side front window UP: from yellow/red to red 8

Passenger side front window DOWN: from orange to rose 15
Passenger side front window UP: from orange/purple to white 16

Driver side rear window DOWN: from gray to black 13
Driver side rear window UP: from gray/black to yellow 12

Passenger side rear window DOWN: from blue to green 18
Passenger side rear window UP: from blue/brown to red 10

 

Now I have to cook for lunch 🤣 
Then I have to find:

NEGATIVE LOCK
POSITIVE LOCK
ACC ON/OFF
12V +
12V -
TOP WINDOW NEGATIVE TRIGGER (??)

Fuses are ok, the car hasn't any problems

[flash22]

What wire(s) did you connect yellow and yellow/red to ?

[Vins213]

Just now, flash22 said:

What wire(s) did you connect yellow and yellow/red to ?

Yellow: 5 green
Yellow/red: 8 red

12v red with 7.5A: 3 white

[Vins213]

I have removed all the mod, reinstalled as original...on the master switch doesn't work the 'auto' switch and the other switches (up or down) move the driver window up...the driver window does not go down

The switch at the other doors works

[flash22]

Check the 30 amp P/W fuse, and make sure your lights inside work (dashboard and a/c controls)

pin 3 is the illumination, pin 16 Gray is Battery 12v

think i have worked out what went wrong........... just triple checking it now

 

[Vins213]

5 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Check the 30 amp P/W fuse, and make sure your lights inside work (dashboard and a/c controls)

pin 3 is the illumination, pin 16 Gray is battery 12v

think i have worked out what went wrong........... just triple checking it now

 

Lights inside work
Panel lights work (a/c, front, rear etc)
The 'auto' led on master switch now works
The switches on master doesn't work (only driver side UP)
The pin 16 is white and for UP passenger (front right)
The pin 6 is grey

I think I have understood the f*ked wire, the 6 grey with the red 12v, not the white one

How can I check the 30A fuse? Where is positioned? 

[flash22]

Internal fuse box by the driver's left knee, accessed from the foot well looking up

i think you may have back fed the close module

drivers side.....

Cut the red UP wire -  connect the YELLOW/RED to the RED going towards the switch and the Yellow to the RED going to the motor

[Vins213]

6 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Internal fuse box by the driver's left knee, accessed from the foot well looking up

i think you may have back fed the close module

drivers side.....

Cut the red UP wire -  connect the YELLOW/RED to the RED going towards the switch and the Yellow to the RED going to the motor

Uhm...but now I have unmounted the mod, now the wires are as original (protected obviously)...all the other three windows work perfectly (activated from the doors, not from the master switcher on driver side)

I have cleaned with air and isopropyl alcohol on the master switcher and now works only: 'auto' led, lock/unlock, lock windows, ONLY UP driver side and nothing else

 

That's the fuse, I don't know how to take it off or check if it's ok

[flash22]

its a micro M or PEC fuse, from what i can see it's blown - to remove, wiggle and pull

[Vins213]

12 minutes ago, Vins213 said:

Uhm...but now I have unmounted the mod, now the wires are as original (protected obviously)...all the other three windows work perfectly (activated from the doors, not from the master switcher on driver side)

I have cleaned with air and isopropyl alcohol on the master switcher and now works only: 'auto' led, lock/unlock, lock windows, ONLY UP driver side and nothing else

 

That's the fuse, I don't know how to take it off or check if it's ok

Ok, I think the 30A fuse is dead

[Vins213]

1 minute ago, flash22 said:

its a micro M or PEC fuse, from what i can see it's blown - to remove, wiggle and pull

You beat me by time 😃

the space is really little, can I use something to wiggle and pull out like a hook tool?

[flash22]

Carefully with long nose pilers

[Vins213]

36 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Carefully with long nose pilers

Thanks! Tomorrow I'll buy a new fuse and replace the blown one

I'm pretty scared from installing the mod again 😬

[Vins213]

Ok, the new fuse will be here for tomorrow - bought 2 of them 😃

Now I have to restudy the connection wire from the instruction manual, and so:

Driver side front window (front left):
UP yellow/red with red 8
DOWN yellow with green 5

Driver side rear windows (rear left):
UP gray/black with yellow 12
DOWN gray with black 13

Passenger side front window (front right):
UP orange/purple with white 16
DOWN orange with pink 15

Passenger side rear window (rear right):
UP blue/brown with red 10
DOWN blue with green 18

Positive red 12v with 7.5A fuse with white 3 or with grey 6?
Negative black 12v with W-B 1

ACC ON white with ACC ON mirror 21

DOOR LOCK green 12v+ with yellow 4 lock door

Green/black lock 12v- and purple top window not connected

 

I don't understand an important thing (the other in bold)
Should the wires be connected directly? Or should they be connected cutting the original wires?
Example on the driver side (yellow and yellow/red): I have joint the yellow one directly to the green and the yellow/red with the red, not in this way:

On 5/2/2022 at 6:24 PM, flash22 said:

Cut the red UP wire -  connect the YELLOW/RED to the RED going towards the switch and the Yellow to the RED going to the motor

 

[flash22]

I will post in a bit when I'm at my desk

[flash22]

Driver side front window (front left):
UP yellow/red with red 8
DOWN yellow with green 5

Driver side rear windows (rear left):
UP gray/black with yellow 12
DOWN gray with black 13

Passenger side front window (front right):
UP orange/purple with white 16
DOWN orange with pink 15

Passenger side rear window (rear right):
UP blue/brown with red 10
DOWN blue with green 18

Positive red 12v with 20A fuse to grey 6
Negative black 12v with W-B 1

ACC ON white with ACC ON mirror 21

DOOR LOCK green 12v+ with yellow 4 lock door

Green/black lock 12v- and purple top window not connected