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1997 Petrol Hiace mot emissions problems


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Hi all , not sure if anyone can help or give some advise but here goes , basically im struggling trying to get my hiace past the emissions for the mot which is turning out to be a nightmare , so far i have replaced the entire exhaust from front to back including the cat (400 cell) , the lambda sensor , the plugs , the ht leads , the injectors and the air intake temperature sensor , i have also checked the air filter which appears to be pretty clean and yet it is still running to high on the emissions to pass the mot so not sure where to go next with it to be honest plus i have another little problem that may or may not be connected but standing behind my van when its revved it smells quite a bit of petrol in the fumes , a friend suggested this may be due to a defective fuel pressure regulator valve letting to much fuel into the system ??and also maybe adding to the bad emissions ??  Any advice would be really really appreciated........................Thanks in advance Toyota buddies :).......................John

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what are the readings ? A Vacuum leak will lean the engine out causing it to add fuel

Any rough running or misfires ?

 

i would start the engine and spray a bit of carb cleaner at the intake manifold joins and also remove and inspect the intake pipes if oiled that would point to a bad crankcase breather/PCV that will spike the hydrocarbons

2.4 or 2.7 (2RZE or 3RZFE) ??

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15 hours ago, RUToyota said:

MAF sensor.?...have you had a code read done.?

I have hunted high and low for a MAF sensor and i cant find one so i think my van pre-dates the MAF sensor just having an IAT sensor near the air filter , unfortunately as for reading the code its a similar story that there is no port to plug in a diagnostics code reader i think again my van pre-dates the tec 😒

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15 hours ago, flash22 said:

what are the readings ? A Vacuum leak will lean the engine out causing it to add fuel

Any rough running or misfires ?

 

i would start the engine and spray a bit of carb cleaner at the intake manifold joins and also remove and inspect the intake pipes if oiled that would point to a bad crankcase breather/PCV that will spike the hydrocarbons

2.4 or 2.7 (2RZE or 3RZFE) ??

I must admit i cant remember what the machine read at the mot station I just remember although close it was over the emissions limit 😞 .  I cant say it has any misfires at all although since i replaced the injectors it seems to run a little lumpy when first fired up until the throttle pedal is pressed a couple of times then sounds like it runs quite sweet .......I will definitely check over the vaccum and intake pipes etc and see if there is anything untoward leaks wise etc .....the engine in my van is a 2.4 2RZ-E btw

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It may be J-obd or very early obd2 if not it will have a diagnostics plug in the engine bay with a cover on it marked Diagnostics if so that is OBD 1 (toyota 23 pin)

https://connector.pinoutguide.com/23_pin_Toyota_special/

you should have a fail sheet and an emissions print out from the fail sheet

 

remove the PCV valve from the top of the valve cover suck and blow into it, it should only work in 1 direction

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On 6/3/2022 at 12:06 PM, flash22 said:

It may be J-obd or very early obd2 if not it will have a diagnostics plug in the engine bay with a cover on it marked Diagnostics if so that is OBD 1 (toyota 23 pin)

https://connector.pinoutguide.com/23_pin_Toyota_special/

you should have a fail sheet and an emissions print out from the fail sheet

 

remove the PCV valve from the top of the valve cover suck and blow into it, it should only work in 1 direction

I cant believe i have owned this van for 13 years and never noticed this port despite being under the bonnet often !!😳 and looks exactly what you described and extremely similar to the one in the link so will assume this is the OBD 1 ? , I have added a pic of mine i took yesterday , unfortunately I tried to add more pics with the cover open but kept coming up error code .   I take it I just need to find someone with the correct code reader and have them plug it in and hopefully any fault codes will pop up ??  I tried the PCV on the rocker cover and seems to be working fine although tastes terrible hehe , as for the fail sheet and emissions print out its a long story but I haven't got either of them as at this point its more of a favour to me pre mot wise but made aware it will fail the emissions 😞 

IMG_7925.JPG

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thats the one, it's obd 1 - you can do the paperclip test, link 2 pins turn the ignition on, it will then flash out any codes

 

836505081_Toyota23pinOBD1.thumb.png.87075bf62c0fab2d245f1f8a47a0fcab.png

 

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7 hours ago, flash22 said:

thats the one, it's obd 1 - you can do the paperclip test, link 2 pins turn the ignition on, it will then flash out any codes

 

836505081_Toyota23pinOBD1.thumb.png.87075bf62c0fab2d245f1f8a47a0fcab.png

 

cheers for that flash and got to say im really itching to try this now and see what happens but unfortunately wont get a chance till about this time next week as of tomorrow morning im away for a week 😞 but will try it as soon as im back home and report on the results................I take it the number of times the check engine light flashes indicates a particular fault code for the amount of times it flashes ? sort of like an analogue version without having a code reader connected to the vehicle .............I had a look around quickly online today for vehicle diagnostic places near me and looks like they charge around £60 + vat mark for an analysis .....................hopefully can get this sorted myself before that happens as i normally like to do things myself and be hands on but have to admit this sort of thing is pretty much a first for me so very much appreciating all of the help 🙂 

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It will flash each number with a pause in between 2 digit code (Eg. 4 is 4 flashes 2-5 seconds apart), if it has multiple codes there should be a 5-10 second pause or the code just repeats

a basic list

12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (P0335)

13 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (P0335, P1335)

14 - Ignition system, coil No. 1 (P1300) and No. 4 (P1315)

15 - Ignition system, coil No. 2 (P1305) and No. 3 (P1310)

16 - Automatic transmission control system

18 - VVT-i system - phases (P1346)

19 - Accelerator pedal position sensor (P1120)

19 - Accelerator pedal position sensor (P1121)

21 - Oxygen sensor (P0135)

22 - Coolant temperature sensor (P0115)

24 - Intake air temperature sensor (P0110)

25 - Oxygen sensor - poor mix signal (P0171)

27 - Oxygen sensor # 2

31 - Absolute pressure sensor (P0105, P0106)

34 - Turbocharger system

35 - Turbocharger pressure sensor

36 - CPS sensor (P1105)

39 - VVT-i system (P1656)

41 - Throttle Position Sensor (P0120, P0121)

42 - Vehicle speed sensor (P0500)

43 - Starter signal

47 - Additional throttle position sensor

49 - Fuel pressure sensor (D-4) (P0190, P0191)

51 - Status of switches

52 - Knock sensor (P0325)

53 - Detonation signal

55 - Knock Sensor No.2

58 - Drive SCV (D-4) (P1415, P1416, P1653)

59 - Signal VVT-i (P1349)

71 - EGR system (P0401, P0403)

78 - injection pump (D-4)

89 - Drive ETCS (P1125, P1126, P1127, P1128, P1129, P1633)

92 - Cold start nozzle (D-4) (P1210)

97 - Nozzles (D-4) (P1215)

98 - The vacuum gauge in the vacuum amplifier of brakes (C1200)

 

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13 minutes ago, flash22 said:

It will flash each number with a pause in between 2 digit code (Eg. 4 is 4 flashes 2-5 seconds apart), if it has multiple codes there should be a 5-10 second pause or the code just repeats

a basic list

12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (P0335)

13 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (P0335, P1335)

14 - Ignition system, coil No. 1 (P1300) and No. 4 (P1315)

15 - Ignition system, coil No. 2 (P1305) and No. 3 (P1310)

16 - Automatic transmission control system

18 - VVT-i system - phases (P1346)

19 - Accelerator pedal position sensor (P1120)

19 - Accelerator pedal position sensor (P1121)

21 - Oxygen sensor (P0135)

22 - Coolant temperature sensor (P0115)

24 - Intake air temperature sensor (P0110)

25 - Oxygen sensor - poor mix signal (P0171)

27 - Oxygen sensor # 2

31 - Absolute pressure sensor (P0105, P0106)

34 - Turbocharger system

35 - Turbocharger pressure sensor

36 - CPS sensor (P1105)

39 - VVT-i system (P1656)

41 - Throttle Position Sensor (P0120, P0121)

42 - Vehicle speed sensor (P0500)

43 - Starter signal

47 - Additional throttle position sensor

49 - Fuel pressure sensor (D-4) (P0190, P0191)

51 - Status of switches

52 - Knock sensor (P0325)

53 - Detonation signal

55 - Knock Sensor No.2

58 - Drive SCV (D-4) (P1415, P1416, P1653)

59 - Signal VVT-i (P1349)

71 - EGR system (P0401, P0403)

78 - injection pump (D-4)

89 - Drive ETCS (P1125, P1126, P1127, P1128, P1129, P1633)

92 - Cold start nozzle (D-4) (P1210)

97 - Nozzles (D-4) (P1215)

98 - The vacuum gauge in the vacuum amplifier of brakes (C1200)

 

wowsers that's quite a list , thankyou for taking the time to put all this down flash its much appreciated, I really want to get on and try it now but I will have to wait a week 😞 I will let you know however what happens asap...............Thanks flash and to all others who have chipped in to help and will let you know the results in a week or so 👍

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Ok folks finally back and just going to pop out and try the paper clip test , Flash this maybe a stupid question but does the van have to be running to do this test or just turned on the key so the dash lights come up ?? 🙂

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4 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Leave the link in place, turn the ignition on and watch the dash

cheers flash , let you know what happens soon 😉

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Ok just done the test and two codes were flashed out , 2 flashes then 4 flashes and then a repetition of both .  This was done with the engine cold and not running , from what I gather from a little further information I managed to find on the net  is that 2 flashes means (air flow meter signal) and 4 flashes (engine coolant temp sensor signal ) ......does this sound about right ?? oh and just a quick update as well now I have had more time to check it over  I definitely think the van does run a little lumpy when first started but seems to even out when revved a couple of times although I have also noticed it seems to be hunting very very mild that its easy to miss but definitely hunting .

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From the list above 😉 (it doesn't use a MAF)

24 - Intake air temperature sensor (P0110)

a quick look at the EPC, front left of the engine bay on the side of the intake pipe work - 89424-12010 - cheap pattern part one about £10, £20-25 for a BluePrint part - because it's new doesn't mean it's good - check the resistance with a multi meter also check the plug and clean it inspect the wiring, give each wire the tug test going into the connector, due to its location i would suspect corrosion or mouse damage if you're out in the sticks

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4 hours ago, flash22 said:

From the list above 😉 (it doesn't use a MAF)

24 - Intake air temperature sensor (P0110)

a quick look at the EPC, front left of the engine bay on the side of the intake pipe work - 89424-12010 - cheap pattern part one about £10, £20-25 for a BluePrint part - because it's new doesn't mean it's good - check the resistance with a multi meter also check the plug and clean it inspect the wiring, give each wire the tug test going into the connector, due to its location i would suspect corrosion or mouse damage if you're out in the sticks

Ok that makes perfect sense :blushing: and at least that means there is only one fault code to deal with instead of two :rolleyes: ...... I did replace the IAT sensor just as a matter of course just a pattern part but neither of the old one or the new one seem to have above part numbers on them and in fact both sensors have different numbers on them , not sure if that will make a difference as I assume the part numbers may vary depending on manufacturer ...........I tested the resistance on both the old and new sensor on 20k dc voltage both of which hung around the 2.16v / 2.17v mark  to start with then slowly warmed the sensors up and watched the value dropping down and when the sensors were warmed watched the value rise back up again so assume they are both actually working as they should be ??  I also tested the wiring on the IAT connector with ignition on and as far as I am aware is correct with 12volts on the ground wire (brown) and 5volts on the signal wire (blue) ...........I have cleaned the terminals on the old IAT sensor and put it all back together and quickly run it and it might have been my imagination but did seem to start better and run a little better but ran out of time before being able to test it properly , I will clear the code from the memory if I have this right (remove 15a fuse from EFI for 30 seconds or more then replace) ??  then i will give the van a good run and see what happens then re-check to see if any fault codes come up again..........does all this sound about right ??👍

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GOOD NEWS 😁😁😁😁 I  did a proper test run on the van today after doing all of the above and it seemed to run so much better so I took it back to the garage and had it put back on the machine and pleased to say this time it passed the emissions with flying colours so I need to say a big thankyou to everyone who has taken the time to help with their knowledge and info especially flash who has been invaluable , cheers buddy 👍 my van now has an mot again 😊

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