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Has anyone got a Carina E T17 speedometer for sale?? :)


1992CarinaE1.6XLI
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Hi All,

I'm looking for a replacement speedometer for a 1992 Carina E 1.6 XLI (pics shown below) . The speedo no longer works and the circuit board is fried. If anyone knows of one, or knows of anyone that could potentially fix it, I would be extremely grateful to hear from you. The instrument cluster part no is 83200-20130, 69361-470. The part no on the speedo itself is 750784-412 (Yazaki Meter). The MOT is looming and that's an automatic fail as far as I understand it - and she's not ready to quit! 🙂

Cheers, Andrew.

IMG20220627094610.jpg

IMG20220627101553.jpg

IMG20220627101508.jpg

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Not seen that level of corrosion in years, that's a lot of work to repair and i will not be pretty, is it a motor or cable driven speedo ?

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Hi Bob. It's driven by a speed sensor that sits on top of the (manual) transmission.

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I've also replaced the speed sensor - to no avail.

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Has long term moisture ingress happened here. It seems odd for something like that to happen.

You can carefully wash boards using hot soapy water and then rinse and dry. At least that area anyway, and both sides. It looks like something corrosive has attacked the print.

Has it also got to the components on the other side? That rectangle of 16 pads will be an integrated circuit fitted on the other side. Is that part also rotting away on that other side of the board?   

 

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21 hours ago, Mooly said:

Has long term moisture ingress happened here. It seems odd for something like that to happen.

You can carefully wash boards using hot soapy water and then rinse and dry. At least that area anyway, and both sides. It looks like something corrosive has attacked the print.

Has it also got to the components on the other side? That rectangle of 16 pads will be an integrated circuit fitted on the other side. Is that part also rotting away on that other side of the board?   

 

 

21 hours ago, Mooly said:

Has long term moisture ingress happened here. It seems odd for something like that to happen.

You can carefully wash boards using hot soapy water and then rinse and dry. At least that area anyway, and both sides. It looks like something corrosive has attacked the print.

Has it also got to the components on the other side? That rectangle of 16 pads will be an integrated circuit fitted on the other side. Is that part also rotting away on that other side of the board?   

 

There doesn't seem to be any damage on the other side at all and all components look sound. I'm not aware of any moisture that could have got in there, and the rest of the board looks as new....very confusing indeed 🙂

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It is very strange indeed then. The damage to the print looks exactly like the sort of damage you see when something acidic/corrosive has attacked the copper. That includes the 'fretting' you see along the print on the right hand edge.

Could it be a production issue I wonder where the acidic etching used to make the board has not been completely washed off and it has been sealed over with the protective green coating leaving the board to rot underneath.

One thing to check simply because it looks a bit suspect in the picture is ZD2 which is probably a Zener diode. Has the pin circled here rotted away from the board (so not in contact with the copper print)

226766061_Screenshot2022-06-28142221.thumb.jpg.d6715da957ef7b5a5863bae59c9ef65a.jpg

  

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Cheers for the head up!! Would I be able to test this with a multimeter?

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You can test the continuity with a meter. Use a low ohms range. You should have continuity from ZD2 to C5 for example. I really can't imagine what has happened to that board to get like that tbh 

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Thanks, Mooly. I'll give it a go 🙂

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The 16 pin is a connector, it's mainly the ground plane that has failed - it can be reworked, but it won't be pretty

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Seems fine. The plot thickens.

 

 

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Thanks, Flash22. Apologies. I'm not sure what you mean by the 16 pin is a connector? I have attached a picture of the back of the speedo where the speed sensor connector plugs into the speedo if that's any help??

IMG20220629102717.jpg

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1st pic in your first post, is that back of the speedo module

16 pads is the stepper driver, my mistake

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4 hours ago, 1992CarinaE1.6XLI said:

Seems fine. The plot thickens.

Hmmm. It had to be tried and measured.

If you can not find any breaks in any of the corroded print (you can check all the continuity of all those traces easily with the meter) then as weird as it sounds you might be looking elsewhere for the problem. All that the print does is electrically connect all the parts and connections together like wire.

This has reminded me of something. My dad had a Carina E, a 1.6 GL 1994 reg and that had a gauge problem. I'm trying to think back and as I recall the rev counter and temp gauge would suddenly fall to zero. It was intermittent and was fixed under warranty. I remember thinking at the time that this was probably something they wouldn't be able to fix without replacing the cluster but they did. It never gave any trouble after they looked at it but I can't remember what was done now.       

 

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Very odd. I can't seem to find any breaks in the track (despite the corrosion). Could the fact that the track is deteriorated impair the speedo. It died a very slow death. Working only above 40mph, then eventually not working at all. Sounds like a gradual degradation of signal from somewhere??

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As long as each track has near zero ohm continuity along its length and any parts or connections to it really do connect with zero ohm resistance then its OK from that aspect.

Conduction between tracks due to corrosive material is unlikely but should be mentioned for completeness. That is not easy to test for without isolating the print from items that connect to it.

If the fault is 'just' the speedo then don't discount the issue being nothing to do with the corrosion. Could it just be a 'faulty speedo head'? 

 

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Cheers for the advice and info. I've had another go at cleaning it up. It's looking a lot better (pic attached). I'll chuck it in over the weekend and see if there is any change. Fingers crossed!!

IMG20220630203311.jpg

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If you have a soldering iron, reflow the joints, the top left joints look iffy, clean the tracks up a bit more with a fibreglass pencil or 000/0000 wire wool then maybe tin the copper

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flash22 is referring to this kind of thing. Look all the joints over. If the the solder is cracked in a ring then the part can intermittently loose contact with the print. Classic 'dry joint' syndrome. Or is that a pub with no beer 🤣

 

1479329403_Screenshot2022-07-01112412.thumb.jpg.a657ba8210d9889e086c11b5db250a42.jpg 

 

1916896622_Screenshot2022-07-01112511.thumb.jpg.6d8cccc055488aa8bac6d770ac2a9529.jpg

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i was looking at the top left

left circle - looks like the copper has corroded from the pad

middle circle - copper has corroded about 80%, down to the fibre glass in most places

right circle - 50% track loss

 

 

i did offer to rework it for the OP

Screenshot 2022-07-01 135028.jpg

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Thanks both. I really appreciate your help. Unfortunately, I'm not really sure what I'm looking at and I have never touched a soldering iron or worked on a circuit board. Apologies Flash22, what is OP?

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OP - Original Poster or Other Poster

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Not yet unfortunately. I'm currently working away and haven't got access to the car. Will update next week. 

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