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Auris Hybrid 2011 - new owner - maintenance and improvements...


mtl
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I thought to open a new thread in which I will describe my experience and maintenance with this car.

Two months ago I bought Auris Hybrid 2011 with 90.000 miles from first owner, full Toyota service history and hybrid Battery replaced 2 years ago.

First it needed a full interior cleaning because it was really filthy. After that I did a partial outside detailing with repairing a few things:

  • replaced broken right mirror blinker
  • repaired bottom front black plastic part on the bumper, that was damaged on the right side
  • replaced boot struts
  • replaced front wipers
  • used touch up paint to ''hide'' quite a few scratches

Yesterday I had time and put the car on the lift and did a few jobs:

  • check the oil sepage at the timing chain cover. I have checked all the bolts and they are tightend. So, I just cleaned the oil and I will check in a month if the sepage is serious or not. According to info, this is a very commong seapege and if it is not really excesive I will just leave it as it is.
  • while I had the car on the lift I also checked the undercarriage and the steering tie rod on the right side will need to be replaced, since the rubber is cut and the grease is getting out
  • I have found out also that there is a looooot of sand under the plastic undercovers, so I have removed all the plastic undertray and there was cca. 3kg of sand in it. That should improve fuel economy a little bit :).
  • I have added the missing plastic clips on the undertray

To do list:

  • Battery fan cleaning (thank you @TonyHSD for the instructions info)
  • EGR and intake manifold cleaning
  • PCV valve replacement

Improvements already done :):

  • privacy shades
  • wind deflectors
  • a black side stickers

 

1 - on the lift.jpg

2 - Timing chain cover leakage.jpg

3 - tie rod.jpg

4 - Sand (1).jpg

4 - Sand (2).jpg

4 - Sand (3).jpg

4 - Sand (4).jpg

8 - missing plastic pins.jpg

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Good job done  

The oil most likely comes from the timing chain tensioner gasket. It’s an easy job to replace and cost only £5, but you can leave it like that until time for the tensioner comes up and then change them together. 
Lol, lots of sand indeed 👌, where was the car used , perhaps in a village or mountain region with a lots of dirty roads. I never removed my ones, I know there is a bit in them but I will be surprised to discover similar quantities 😂, I have upcoming  job under the car and may remove one panel and check. 👍 

The tie rod if no excessive movement, just drive the car like that until is completely finished, then replace with oem or higher quality aftermarket. If inner tie roads give up , they comes only as a set together with steering rack,  however there are aftermarket separate options available. The car looks great. Thanks for  posting pictures and descriptions of the work you had done. 👌

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1 hour ago, TonyHSD said:

The oil most likely comes from the timing chain tensioner gasket. It’s an easy job to replace and cost only £5, but you can leave it like that until time for the tensioner comes up and then change them together.

Isn't the timing chain tensioner at the top? Because this seapage looks like it is coming from the middle of the timing chain cover. Here is a video of it:

 

1 hour ago, TonyHSD said:

Lol, lots of sand indeed 👌, where was the car used , perhaps in a village or mountain region with a lots of dirty roads. I never removed my ones, I know there is a bit in them but I will be surprised to discover similar quantities 😂, I have upcoming  job under the car and may remove one panel and check. 👍

It was an older gentelman that owned the car and he was very much in hill climbing, so that is probably the reason. I first just knocked on the plastic undertray in the front and some sand dropped down. So I decided to unclip one clip and try to bash the sand out, but it just would not stop coming out :). So, I just removed all the undertray and was quite astonished with quantity of the sand. Although the right side was clean, all the sand was on the left side and at the back of the car. Loool.

 

1 hour ago, TonyHSD said:

The tie rod if no excessive movement, just drive the car like that until is completely finished, then replace with oem or higher quality aftermarket. If inner tie roads give up , they comes only as a set together with steering rack,  however there are aftermarket separate options available.

I have checked and there is no movement. Still ok, but I do like to have the car in top shape, especially since my wife will mostly drive it. Also I do need to do the track alignment and I will just do both at the same time. Anyway, I have checked and the tie rod's part nr. is 45046-09570 and the Meyle part costs less than 20 EUR ;). Also replacing it, should be an easy job.
And I am quite happy that this is the only problem that I have spotted :). I was already aware of the timing chain seapage.

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1 hour ago, mtl said:

Isn't the timing chain tensioner at the top? Because this seapage looks like it is coming from the middle of the timing chain cover. Here is a video of it:

 

It was an older gentelman that owned the car and he was very much in hill climbing, so that is probably the reason. I first just knocked on the plastic undertray in the front and some sand dropped down. So I decided to unclip one clip and try to bash the sand out, but it just would not stop coming out :). So, I just removed all the undertray and was quite astonished with quantity of the sand. Although the right side was clean, all the sand was on the left side and at the back of the car. Loool.

 

I have checked and there is no movement. Still ok, but I do like to have the car in top shape, especially since my wife will mostly drive it. Also I do need to do the track alignment and I will just do both at the same time. Anyway, I have checked and the tie rod's part nr. is 45046-09570 and the Meyle part costs less than 20 EUR ;). Also replacing it, should be an easy job.
And I am quite happy that this is the only problem that I have spotted :). I was already aware of the timing chain seapage.

You need to clean properly with brake cleaner spray and dry wipe with cloth. Then drive the car for a week or so and get back there with the torch and double check where the oil is coming from. There are two possible places: timing chain tensioner ( right arrow on the pic below) or the point that 3 metal surfaces mounts together, usually at factory a small line of silicone has been applied to prevent any oil leaks but often oil comes out from there ( left arrow). If it’s from the gasket, just leave it or perhaps use wynns engine stop leak that may eventually reduce or stop the oil leak. If it’s the tensioner just buy and replace the gasket. Here pics. 👍

89CBD672-1D8B-4F29-BDD3-6F6B438367B5.jpeg

44D49970-66AC-4AED-84E9-AD64810181DD.jpeg

3E4D38D6-C461-493B-A88D-DDF7B383EB93.jpeg

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Battery fan cleaned. Thx to @TonyHSD for all the pointers, very easy job to do, 1 hour.
Judgeing by the filth of the interior from previous owner, I have expected to be more dust inside. Previous owner was beekeeper so sadly there were a few dead bees inside. Fan cleaned, me happy :).
I have filmed the whole process, now I just need to find time to edit it...

 

Corolla fan cleaning (2).jpg

Corolla fan cleaning (1).jpg

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On 7/12/2022 at 8:22 PM, mtl said:

Battery fan cleaned. Thx to @TonyHSD for all the pointers, very easy job to do, 1 hour.
Judgeing by the filth of the interior from previous owner, I have expected to be more dust inside. Previous owner was beekeeper so sadly there were a few dead bees inside. Fan cleaned, me happy :).
I have filmed the whole process, now I just need to find time to edit it...

 

Corolla fan cleaning (2).jpg

Corolla fan cleaning (1).jpg

Now it is clean order 1 x G92DH-12020 this is an add on filter from Toyota 

image.thumb.png.04e1add41aaf153058e2eacec87fffb5.png

which is designed to stop most of the fluff/lint being drawn down to the fan, it just pops on/off and can be blown out to keep it clean.

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I have already looked for the filter, but I did not found it for Auris, only for Prius.
Are you sure it will fit also to Auris?

PS: Finally I got almost all the parts for intake manifold and throttle cleaning (both gaskets, suitable cleaning brushes for guns 🙂). Now I just need to buy the gunk cleaner and do the job.

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1 hour ago, mtl said:

I have already looked for the filter, but I did not found it for Auris, only for Prius.
Are you sure it will fit also to Auris?

PS: Finally I got almost all the parts for intake manifold and throttle cleaning (both gaskets, suitable cleaning brushes for guns 🙂). Now I just need to buy the gunk cleaner and do the job.

Hi, 

you can re use all the metal gaskets except the manifold one, it’s a silicone orange colour and should be replaced. Very important to clean properly the manifold small holes in each intake galleys, use quality egr and throttle body cleaner spray. For the cooler once you have it off the engine block one side and fill up from the other with same spray or oven cleaner, but something that is designed to work on stainless steel metals and it’s not corrosive, otherwise you are risking to cause damage. Also you can use jet wash to clean after and metal spoke to put in between honey comb mesh. , again do it carefully not to puncture the coolant passages. Here what I used for mine.: 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352709894974?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MQfZam35TmK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

These are good to have , for general work and for the egr tube https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374023060637?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Pv56uwwdQIa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

0262D8BF-179F-48F5-8326-5C68888F8523.jpeg

1B16710E-364C-40D5-996C-ADFB19C40CFD.jpeg

9CCCFC75-9EB0-4D53-9CE4-2B69F5FE7D5B.jpeg

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2FF94CFF-E6B6-4ACC-A2D3-A71E7EEB7A29.jpeg

05907EAF-F5EC-44C7-8ECF-E5C4DBDFFD80.jpeg

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Thx for your explanation.

In this phase I will do only throttle body and intake manifold since it is easier and sadly I do not have time to do it all. In the winter I will go after EGR and EGR cooler.
I got the intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket which is also from rubber. Although many have just use them back and it worked, but I do like to do the job and forget about it.
For the small holes in the intake manifold I have bought the cleaning brushes for guns 🙂 which should work. That is what I was able to get here.

Did you use this EGR cleaner also on the intake manifold, which si plastic? I am a little reluctant not to damage the plastic.

Did fuel consumption got any better after cleaning these parts?

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6 hours ago, mtl said:

Thx for your explanation.

In this phase I will do only throttle body and intake manifold since it is easier and sadly I do not have time to do it all. In the winter I will go after EGR and EGR cooler.
I got the intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket which is also from rubber. Although many have just use them back and it worked, but I do like to do the job and forget about it.
For the small holes in the intake manifold I have bought the cleaning brushes for guns 🙂 which should work. That is what I was able to get here.

Did you use this EGR cleaner also on the intake manifold, which si plastic? I am a little reluctant not to damage the plastic.

Did fuel consumption got any better after cleaning these parts?

Yes, same cleaner plus Holts brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner. 
Even if you don’t want to remove the egr cooler , you can separate only the egr valve from the cooler and clean it nicely, it is important step at this mileage. Also while cleaning the manifold and throttle body there is a map/maf sensor mounted near the body , you can take this off and clean with same spray , few shoots and install back. Behind the intake manifold is located PCV valve, if you would like you can change this too, just for peace of mind. 

6346CA76-4E41-4415-8564-DAAD2BFCD4D2.jpeg

41EB4463-8D5C-4F83-B7EA-8F31627A8177.jpeg

 

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Thx, good info for the MAP sensor, I will clean it. PCV valve I already have and I will replace it.

As far as I have checked the instructions and some videos it is quite difficult to remove only EGR valve, due to some inaccessible bolts. Together with EGR cooler is supposed to be much easier. But I will definitelly check and if it will go out, that would be great.

 

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Does anyone with Prius 2009-2014 or Auris 2009-2014 have some issue with inverter?  There is recalls in USA for Prius.  As we know, all prius are assembly from the same plant in Japan.  Including the one in Europe market.  I am not sure about The Auris or Prius+ that use exactly same components. 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2018/RCMN-18V684-6529.pdf

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Interesting. I haven’t heard anything about such problems.

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American Customers got so much benefit because of the way Toyota market there.  They get free dashboard from melting even after it is 12 years old/300k miles, does not matter.  They also have special campaign for brake booster in prius, engine replacement when consume too much oil in Camry 2007-2009.  There are a lot of things we do not get in Europe that we can see what actual Sevice Bulletin in USA that we can access from NHTSA government websites.  

We only get Relax 10 years warranty, which does not cover anything if we are out of 10 years. Recalls often does not care about year/mileage. 

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Toyota and all car manufacturers offer recall programs in UK too on old cars as well, but as far as I know they do go extra mile when it’s about safety. On newer cars maybe they can offer engine swap or repair, but older ones not sure, definitely it’s not like in US. For the inverter there are only few Prius complaints, lays one was two years ago. Brake booster few in Auris gen 2 again sometime ago, in general not many , thankfully 👌👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, finally I had time to do this job and was really happy with what I have found out when had everything taken off. It took cca. 4 hours, but I was really slow and carefull not to mess something up.


The car has 146.000km/91.000miles

0.thumb.jpg.4bc1fb0b9d6bfb3cbcea7f5d880feeff.jpg

There was just a slim oil film in the intake manifold under the throttle body and no oil on the throttle body (that golden colour is a burned residue), which was a nice sight, especially after I have watched videos with a bath of oil under it on some cars.

3.thumb.jpg.e1adad278d9ebadf9ccb52c5921d70ad.jpg

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After cleaning it looked much happier :):
5.thumb.jpg.d3a32d6d08a48474e27a064a4c5cf5a1.jpg

Despite PCV valve obviously working perfect, I have replaced it:
6.thumb.jpg.edf38a5a87a40c05b0785db912d585a1.jpg

Intake manifold had really little black stuff on it. The small hoses were all clear :), except the cylinder 3 you can already see a small amount of black stuff. The most clogged was on connection to EGR pipe, which was nice crusty inside although not as much as I have expected.

1.thumb.jpg.fa89c4ed46f423e7c150bd06d4b7e897.jpg

2.thumb.jpg.31ab2b86455e7f105561568c8bba218a.jpg

Already cleaned EGR pipe.

8.thumb.jpg.093818327b65587a01eb56f13781d45b.jpg

Everything was cleaned and put back together. There was no higher idling at first start, which I expected since I did the throttle body cleaning. I will try to do the EGR and EGR cooler in the spring, but since all this was not really clogged probably also EGR is not so crusty.

I have also replaced intake manifold and throttle body gaskets. They would probably be still ok, but... Old IM gasked was noticeable harder in comparison to new fresh gasket.

7.jpg

 

Today also the steering tie rod will be replaced and wheels realigned and I hope that the car will be ready for the next troubleless 100.000 km :).

We get 4.5l/100km (52.2 US mpg/ 62.7 UK mpg) of average consumption, hopefully we can get it a little lower in the future.

 

Links to some videos that I have used as a guidance:

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for sharing. 2011 at 90k miles without much carbon deposit on the intake manifold. Do you have oil consumption problems? Probably not.  

It's surprising that they replace the Battery 2 years ago because we now have 15 years warranty. Probably it was still 10 years for 2011 HSD.  The main cause of Battery failure is clogged Battery fan ducting or driving without AC because its cooled by cabin air.  Or rarely driven,  parked for months.  

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7 minutes ago, AisinW said:

Thanks for sharing. 2011 at 90k miles without much carbon deposit on the intake manifold. Do you have oil consumption problems? Probably not.  

It's surprising that they replace the battery 2 years ago because we now have 15 years warranty. Probably it was still 10 years for 2011 HSD.  The main cause of battery failure is clogged battery fan ducting or driving without AC because its cooled by cabin air.  Or rarely driven,  parked for months.  

There is one more thing that perhaps it’s the biggest issue that causes premature Battery failure, water and moisture. These cars including Priuses suffer from water entering the boot filling up the entire spare wheel area and even flooding the rear seats footwells, water level up to the Battery. Also blocked boot air vents or as some people do cover them with silicone to stop water getting in from there but this is wrong and bad for the Battery temperature control. 👍

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30 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

There is one more thing that perhaps it’s the biggest issue that causes premature battery failure, water and moisture. These cars including Priuses suffer from water entering the boot filling up the entire spare wheel area and even flooding the rear seats footwells, water level up to the battery. Also blocked boot air vents or as some people do cover them with silicone to stop water getting in from there but this is wrong and bad for the battery temperature control. 👍

Yes you are right, especially 2nd gen Prius with the crack on the end of the roof where the water channel is.   I had mine flooded but not high enough to reach the HV Battery.  I remove one of the drain plug on the trunk/boot in my 2nd gen Prius after that although the Epoxy (JBWeld) really fix and sealed the cracked roof. Yes, humidity or salt vapour (coast area) can cause corrosion of the copper Busbar, increase the internal resistance reading, and drop the output voltage.  My 06 Prius was not parked on the garage in hot Florida and it died after 11 years 220k miles, a sudden triangle of death.   A new hybrid Battery is not that expensive in europe with recycling program.  It cost €2350 installed in Toyota dealership and even cheaper in UK/Ireland.  After all, 15 years warranty is a long warranty and we even have choice only to keep that warranty without Relax warranty by doing Hybrid-system-check only, it cost about 30-50€ per year/10k miles.  I did this way, change my own oil, coolant, ATF, sparkplugs, etc.  Oil change/annual inspection cost €240-€440 in Germany.  

I decided to do 5k miles/6 months oil change interval because I want to keep my car burn 0 oil per 5k miles.  If I do 10x more oil change in 10 years, I only pay €500 more DIY.  If my car starts burning 1L every 2k miles (limit is 1.5k miles/Liter), https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10132912-9999.pdf I will polute the atmosphere  5L every year instead of recycle it.  Doing more often oil change 5k miles/6 months is overal greener for most people than every 10k miles/year. The engine starts burning oil after roughly 100k miles and gets worst as the deposit and piston rings caked up.   It is never too late. If it starts burning oil, do 5k miles OCI and it may resolve by itself if the piston rings is not completely stuck.  I heard that not all dealership used Genuine Toyota oil/Mobil1.  They use the cheapest oil available. 

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1 hour ago, AisinW said:

Thanks for sharing. 2011 at 90k miles without much carbon deposit on the intake manifold. Do you have oil consumption problems? Probably not.  

It's surprising that they replace the battery 2 years ago because we now have 15 years warranty. Probably it was still 10 years for 2011 HSD.  The main cause of battery failure is clogged battery fan ducting or driving without AC because its cooled by cabin air.  Or rarely driven,  parked for months.  

No oil consumption in last 3.000km that the car is in my hands.

I would say that the problem was in car not being used and probably dirt in the Battery. There are no signs of water in the trunk.

Battery fan nicely cleaned, so hopefully we will get next 100.000km troublefree :).

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1 hour ago, mtl said:

No oil consumption in last 3.000km that the car is in my hands.

I would say that the problem was in car not being used and probably dirt in the battery. There are no signs of water in the trunk.

Battery fan nicely cleaned, so hopefully we will get next 100.000km troublefree :).

Thanks for the clarification. It confimed my hypothesis that the carbon build up in EGR and intake manifolds is related directly with the oil consumption issue.  The Battery is the least issues in UK weather. If you are in Slovenia, park the car in the garage.  I recommend we change the oil max at 10k miles/1 year/15k km with high quality oil like certified 508/509 0w-20 (Ravenol, Shell, Total, Castrol, Manol 7722) or Toyota Genuine Oil/Mobil1 ESP X2.  Not all 0w-20 are the same and most oil with VW 508/509 certification has much lower pouring temperature ~ -50 C which means they are very good base oil or probably high % of PAO instead of pure HC synthetic.   For instance, Mannol 0w-20 7918 is a half price of 7722 (VW 508/509) certified.  It could be because of the license fee but also different stock base.  PAO is true synthetic meanwhile HC /group III is not, it depends on the source of the quality of the crude oil. 

This video showed the result from long interval 10k miles/OCI at around 200k miles.  He mentioned that around 100k miles is when it starts burning oil.   It burns oil 1-2L per 1000 miles even with dealership maintenance.  Apparently in USA, most Toyota dealership does not use Toyota Oil but the cheapest they can get the offer from.  He recommends strick 5k miles/6 months interval with decent oil instead of boutique oil 1 year interval. 

 

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On 7/10/2022 at 4:22 PM, TonyHSD said:

You need to clean properly with brake cleaner spray and dry wipe with cloth. Then drive the car for a week or so and get back there with the torch and double check where the oil is coming from. There are two possible places: timing chain tensioner ( right arrow on the pic below) or the point that 3 metal surfaces mounts together, usually at factory a small line of silicone has been applied to prevent any oil leaks but often oil comes out from there ( left arrow). If it’s from the gasket, just leave it or perhaps use wynns engine stop leak that may eventually reduce or stop the oil leak. If it’s the tensioner just buy and replace the gasket. Here pics. 👍

89CBD672-1D8B-4F29-BDD3-6F6B438367B5.jpeg

44D49970-66AC-4AED-84E9-AD64810181DD.jpeg

3E4D38D6-C461-493B-A88D-DDF7B383EB93.jpeg

I had the exact same seepage since 3 years ago and it does not get worse. I just spray it with soap and water every oil change/6 months and it is always clean. It is very-very smal seepage, nothing to worry about. You can replace the seals but it will leaks again in 2 or 3 years anyway.  It is a prone problem in all 2ZR engines since 2003. 

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On 7/13/2022 at 9:54 PM, Devon Aygo said:

Now it is clean order 1 x G92DH-12020 this is an add on filter from Toyota 

image.thumb.png.04e1add41aaf153058e2eacec87fffb5.png

which is designed to stop most of the fluff/lint being drawn down to the fan, it just pops on/off and can be blown out to keep it clean.

Does it fit only for Auris1 pre 2013?  is there any similar filter for the Auris 2013-newer?  I only find screen type filter, not paper. 

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