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Aygo 2008 clutch brand choices ?


gok
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Hi All

My clutch allegedly has gone at only 30,000 and I’m not sure which one to buy my mate whose a car dealer says LUK but I read the exedy uprated ones are also good.

which ones would you guys recommend?

Also is there anyway to determine the clutch is 100% gone and it’s not a cable adjustment issue ?

 

thanks in advance for your help 

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Has the clutch been adjusted, as it's a cable clutch ? If the bite point is at the top of the pedal, it needs adjusting

random vid off YouTube

 

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Perhaps you could start by telling us your exact symptoms ?

Is it slipping or is dragging / difficult to get in gear ?

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"" If the bite point is at the top of the pedal, it needs adjusting ""

If the bite point is at the top of the pedal, it's right as it came from the factory.

Rules for setting the Aygo clutch are different than for any other vehicle and you should be able to compare to a new Aygo to see if it's wrong or right.

They made / designed it real stupid in the factory but they did so for more than ten years..

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I agree with the last post. They are all very high. You should have a small amount of pedal movement before it starts to de-engage. If the bite point is too low you will get problems changing gear. If you find a hill and try to go up in too higher gear it will slip if worn and the revs will rise (you may get a burny smell as well). If it does this its a sure sign the clutch has worn out.

On the adjustment, you can adjust the top stop as well as the cable. Its possible to get the pedal a bit lower with the required slack so you dont need clown shoes to operate it. I got my daughters lower than the measurement in the Haynes manual and it works perfectly.

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Thanks guys 

I didn’t trust my car dealer friends original diagnosis so went to a mechanic 

Not sure if the mechanic adjusted correctly but the clutch now engages about halfway and he did say it was really tight , so clearly never adjusted , symptoms were that you really needed to rev car especially on hills , now the clutch seems to hold much better and I can stall the car a little easier.

The car will only do 1000 miles or so this year as I’m abroad but on return I’ll take to Toyota for them to check but this mechanic said there should be 3-4mm play in cable.

Though regardless I would welcome opinions on clutch brands.

I did change front discs and pads to Brembo myself which was ok only the two 17mm bolts was a pain though a breaker bar solved it.

tips hammer the torx screw a little and plenty wd40 , but I think most DIY folk can do the job with a brake piston winder tool.

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21 hours ago, flash22 said:

LUK has a good reputation and unlike some honour there warrantees

Excellent to know 

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On 7/17/2022 at 5:50 PM, gok said:

tips hammer the torx screw a little and plenty wd40 , but I think most DIY folk can do the job with a brake piston winder tool.

"Impact ScrewDriver" is what you'll need for that Torx Screw.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165280492378 £8.79

As you hit the back of the "impact screwdriver" with a hammer, it turns at the same time.  The shock and turn action makes removing rusty screws effortlessly.  Also, the bigger the hammer the better (go for 3 pound or 4 pound hammer).

And when you put that torx screw back in, smear some copper grease on the thread before you do so.  The next person removing that brake disc will thank you kindly.

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