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EPS light on 1-2 times a week


Biomecanoid
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52, 55 and 57

looks like a dodgy eps relay (built into the eps ecu) and/or worn eps motor

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22 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

Have you seen flash22 video on subject EPS

Some electric power steering still use fluids.

Mine has a motor mounted in the steering column, I don't think it is using fluids.

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22 minutes ago, flash22 said:

52, 55 and 57

looks like a dodgy eps relay (built into the eps ecu) and/or worn eps motor

Correct that is exactly what I saw 52, 55, 57 :

Looking up the codes at https://obd2-codes.co provided the following results:

c1552.jpg?ssl=1

c1555.jpg?w=2000&ssl=1


ECU harness is open or shorted,Power Steering ECU circuit poor electrical connection

So it seems that the issue is wire harness related.

Should I have a mechanic check and clean all connections and possibly clean the insides on the motor for carbon residue ?

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It still may have carbon brushes resulting in a open circuit.

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2 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

It still may have carbon brushes resulting in a open circuit.

So ? what is the solution ? I would like to know what parts should i consider buying as mechanics here suck at troubleshooting and are just parts replacers.

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Personally I prefere to remove rhe motor mark it before disassembley unless you can see access to carbon brushes ie brush cap.

Very little spring pressure behind carbon brushes it time to sort out new ones.

A garage will just replace the motor.

It can have a brushless dc motor this is where the motor is magnets on inside move coils on outside but this is a very expensive type of motor.

This only cost you time.

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Yes take the codes and get it checked if you are not able to do it your self - interment nature of it points the internal relay or motor dying

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5 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Yes take the codes and get it checked if you are not able to do it your self - interment nature of it points the internal relay or motor dying

So does checking and cleaning all cable connections and also cleaning the motor from carbon waste inside the casing makes any sense ?.  How do I differentiate between

 

21 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

Personally I prefere to remove rhe motor mark it before disassembley unless you can see access to carbon brushes ie brush cap.

Very little spring pressure behind carbon brushes it time to sort out new ones.

A garage will just replace the motor.

It can have a brushless dc motor this is where the motor is magnets on inside move coils on outside but this is a very expensive type of motor.

This only cost you time.

The motor is this one shown in the video:

 

 

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Wiring will be ok, check the motor unplug and plug the connectors to the EPS ecu, codes are only a diagnosis aid, not a cure

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4 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Wiring will be ok, check the motor unplug and plug the connectors to the EPS ecu, codes are only a diagnosis aid, not a cure

OK understood regarding wiring and plugs but what about the motor ? is it a good idea to clean it ?

 

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  • 1 month later...

 

Thank you for your help, issue seems to be resolved I took my car to a mechanic along with all my findings and what he told me is that components off the EPS ECU pcb were detached due to heat and that he re-soldered them and that he re-calibrated the EPS ECU thru OBDII.

I personally doubt that he re-soldered anything, because I have yet to find a mechanic with knowledge in electronics. So I assumed he just re-calibrated the steering and that's why the low price of 50 euros that I had to pay.

 

 

 

 

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The connector pins on the PCB can go dry and crack, it's a 2-min job to reflow the joints with fresh solder - easy enough if you have half a clue

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44 minutes ago, flash22 said:

The connector pins on the PCB can go dry and crack, it's a 2-min job to reflow the joints with fresh solder - easy enough if you have half a clue

Well since it works ( after about 2 weeks ) I am all for it haha :P 

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