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Rust removal


RHYSF00
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You'll want to order the larger jar of elbow grease. 😉

I assume you mean the rear torsion bar (everything else looks like it just have surface rust). The best is to remove it, strip it down. Remove all the rust, and paint it. Easy in theory, but is plenty of work. Assume you'll have the car off the road for a few days / week if you work on it continuously. You could hand in the torsion bar to be blasted and painted. It will be better than doing it yourself (you still need to do all the disassembly and swearing). 

Second best is to try to remove as much rust as possible while in situ and then paint it. Again, it's quite a bit of work, and results will be suboptimal.

You'd want to have a knotted wire disc for your angle grinder and similar for a drill in order to remove the rust.

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Start with the kit:  I suggest goggles, mask, an 'at, and gloves.  Axle stands, and then get a pressure washer.  I have a long Kartcher lance with a right angle nozzle.  It will blast off  lot of the crud and get lots of that down to clean paint work.

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3 hours ago, APS said:

You'll want to order the larger jar of elbow grease. 😉

I assume you mean the rear torsion bar (everything else looks like it just have surface rust). The best is to remove it, strip it down. Remove all the rust, and paint it. Easy in theory, but is plenty of work. Assume you'll have the car off the road for a few days / week if you work on it continuously. You could hand in the torsion bar to be blasted and painted. It will be better than doing it yourself (you still need to do all the disassembly and swearing). 

Second best is to try to remove as much rust as possible while in situ and then paint it. Again, it's quite a bit of work, and results will be suboptimal.

You'd want to have a knotted wire disc for your angle grinder and similar for a drill in order to remove the rust.

I did have a drill wire brush but lost it. Will get new one and maybe start work next week

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19 hours ago, APS said:

You'll want to order the larger jar of elbow grease. 😉

I assume you mean the rear torsion bar (everything else looks like it just have surface rust). The best is to remove it, strip it down. Remove all the rust, and paint it. Easy in theory, but is plenty of work. Assume you'll have the car off the road for a few days / week if you work on it continuously. You could hand in the torsion bar to be blasted and painted. It will be better than doing it yourself (you still need to do all the disassembly and swearing). 

Second best is to try to remove as much rust as possible while in situ and then paint it. Again, it's quite a bit of work, and results will be suboptimal.

You'd want to have a knotted wire disc for your angle grinder and similar for a drill in order to remove the rust.

Can i apply rust converter if i cant go doen to shiny metal?

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3 hours ago, RHYSF00 said:

Can i apply rust converter if i cant go doen to shiny metal?

Yes, you can. I've had varied results. Sometimes the rust comes through again from underneath. You may need to apply the converter multiple times to be sure it's gone through.

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20 minutes ago, APS said:

Yes, you can. I've had varied results. Sometimes the rust comes through again from underneath. You may need to apply the converter multiple times to be sure it's gone through.

Ok thanks. Also got a knotted brush. But will a non knotted work16754312735824883517054791823558.thumb.jpg.d564b6b9087136be65dc7e4caafdfa9d.jpg

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I've spent many hours under mine keeping surface rust at bay. Even though this probably sounds laborious I use a dremel with a variety of different attachments as, with the extension, it is so manoeuvrable - then Kurrust and Hammerite - I'm sure there are much more sophisticated approaches but it's worked for me. For hard to reach places I do the best I can then use Lanogaurd.

 

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I suggest red oxide for two reasons.  Hammerite say you can apply the paint directly as it is a complete seal.  That may be true if you don't miss as much as a pin hole.  The advantage of red oxide is that any bit you fail to cover with your second coat should look like a red light!

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On 2/3/2023 at 1:38 PM, RHYSF00 said:

It will work, but is more gentle. The knotted ones have thicker, hardened bristles and will be more effective. The quickest, most aggressive way is a knotted wheel on an angle grinder. It still leaves fresh metal intact.

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2 hours ago, APS said:

It will work, but is more gentle. The knotted ones have thicker, hardened bristles and will be more effective. The quickest, most aggressive way is a knotted wheel on an angle grinder. It still leaves fresh metal intact.

ok. well didnt need the drill come the end. removed what i can with a hand brush and got it clean. wiped down with alchol and it was clean. applied rust convertor and boom 20 mins and blue. waited 2 maybe 3 hours and applied primer. i dont have enough paint to apply ontop so i be popping out tomorrow to get some.now what colour shall i go for??20230208_152600.jpg20230208_152604.jpg

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50 minutes ago, RHYSF00 said:

now what colour shall i go for??

Good work! Any colour you like. There are no rules and it's your car. But, since you're not painting everything, it's easiest to stick to plain chassis black (satin black).

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I would go for post office red, you've done the work, now show it off. 

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20 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

I would go for post office red, you've done the work, now show it off. 

was thinking this instead https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/rust-removal-and-treatment/hammerite-direct-to-rust-metal-paint-smooth-gold-750ml-284294.html?stockInventory=undefined

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That would do the job but wasted bling. Certainly Hamerite. 

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1 minute ago, Roy124 said:

That would do the job but wasted bling. Certainly Hamerite. 

Was having a laugh

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34 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

And royal blue for the springs

Not sure if it safe to paint suspension 

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1 hour ago, Roy124 said:

They come painted 🙂

 

Ok. Well mine really dirty then. Date stamp 2004 on the front.

 

Also @APScouldn't get black in store so got silver instead

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