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Cubic Incubi
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dawesy, i think that may be over kill though, i would never see more than 350 on stock internals - for longevity.

Daktari - :lol: the water gets atomised and just retards detonation, great for turning up the boost for 1/4 miles, not so practical on a track car as it adds weight, but if you do the math, and test run the track, you can decide when its needed and carry the right amount.

Then again a 25hp hit of nitrous wouldnt go a miss along the straights for additional cooling,

Cheers for the graph Mike :D

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Why do i have a problem with the idea of water injection. I know it`s a tried and tested method of increasing boost - with supporting mods - But call me old fashioned, I just dont like the idea of pouring water into the cylinders.  :wacko:  :thumbsup:

I don't know, why have you an issue with WI ?

I've been running it for years, and the charge temp drop is huge .. nothing like COLD hard boost .. and with a 50% methanol mix you get a nice upping of octane too.

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Why do i have a problem with the idea of water injection. I know it`s a tried and tested method of increasing boost - with supporting mods - But call me old fashioned, I just dont like the idea of pouring water into the cylinders.  :wacko:  :thumbsup:

I don't know, why have you an issue with WI ?

I've been running it for years, and the charge temp drop is huge .. nothing like COLD hard boost .. and with a 50% methanol mix you get a nice upping of octane too.

I shall have to consider changing my attitude to all this modern stuff..... :ph34r:

By the way anyone know where the starting handle`s kept? :D

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1st i will fit a boost guage to see whats going on then i will plug te leaks..............after that its down to the pressure v`s installled gaskets

#timed run ... 0-60 including dodgy start ... 8 secs 1st run

2nd run 6.9

3rd run 6,8

4th run 6.9

been told the car will go to 6.5.... not with me at the wheeel ...obviously

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dawesy, i think that may be over kill though, i would never see more than 350 on stock internals - for longevity.

Cheers for the graph Mike :D

already got a forged rebuild with JE pistons mate :thumbsup:

was running 1.7 bar on a stage 2 CT20 but it seems reliability on a hybridized CT isnt very good. although there were no noticable signs of any trouble whilst the tubby was on the car when i removed it the thrust bearing (a 360deg item i add) was shot to bits. must have been nearly 1mm of end float in it. it had only done 8000miles too.anti-lag may not have helped though :P

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hmmm, thats my fear, no point shelling out on a spangley refurb'd hybrid if the bearings are gonna cook - i've allready been at the recieveing end of a failed turbo bearing :lol:

ball bearing seems the way to go for longevity.

Sean, I,m pulling a 6 second 0-60 easy, it aint that hard mate to get these sort of times, I'm aiming for about 5.4 minimum with my build project. :D

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What power can a stock CT20 handle before it runs out of puff?

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good point ... im gonna fit a pressure relief valve so i can raise the boost pressure...and a boost guage so i can monitor any drop off etc....tame mechanic says im ok for around 12 psi but more informed minds may differ on this

also.... i have strange spring mounted baffle in my exhaust which is rattling away ...worried me at 1st...thought it was something bad ....anyways i pulled it out as far as possible and stuck a jubilee clip on it thus stopping the rattle ....anyone know if i can take it out completely or will this screw up my noise emissions ....ive been told its out there for the US market but again ,,,more informed minds may differ

offending part clicky

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WTF is that?? Never seen one like that before. Standard UK models had a twin pipe backbox. Think the JDM ones did too. Whip it off and get a nice stainless system on there. :D Oh and you should be fine for 12PSI. Fuel cut is around there so if that happens you can just turn it down a tad or get a FCD. :thumbsup:

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What power can a stock CT20 handle before it runs out of puff?

300-320 ish bhp at about 18-20psi, for which you would need a chargecooler or FMIC.

but the bearings would end up cooked prolonged :huh: much safer to boost 16psi for about 290bhp, all dependant on charge cooling of course (ct20 is a stage 3 ct26 all in one, but you can stipulate a ball bearing assembly in any hybrid ordered - they make what you tell em but it costs, but why not just go straight for the ready made tubby?)

I'm defo going ball bearings though :thumbsup:

cheers

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What power can a stock CT20 handle before it runs out of puff?

300-320 ish bhp at about 18-20psi, for which you would need a chargecooler or FMIC.

but the bearings would end up cooked prolonged :huh: much safer to boost 16psi for about 290bhp, all dependant on charge cooling of course (ct20 is a stage 3 ct26 all in one, but you can stipulate a ball bearing assembly in any hybrid ordered - they make what you tell em but it costs, but why not just go straight for the ready made tubby?)

I'm defo going ball bearings though :thumbsup:

cheers

Yep. i`ll be looking at who offers what and at what price. :yes: Don`t want to break the bank but as the saying goes.. You gets what you pays for. :D

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wastgates.

does anyone know the limits for flow rates for the ct26 twin entry.

and does anybody have a list of external wastegates required after those limits.

cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

What are people running as far as boost levels are concerned?

I have rebuilt my 3S-GTE (JDM ST185) with forged pistons (8.5:1 comp ratio), race bearings and the conrods in it were somewhat beefier than what the rebuilder has seen before?!? Turbo has been recond recently. A customer at work claimed to be running 14psi stock, I thought that the factory fuel cut was set at 12psi? Also I wanted to keep the top mount cooler, I have a 10" fan (near perfect fit) mounted on it, as the responsivness is somethign that I like about these cars. Can the top mounts be upgraded or do FMIC not create noticably more lag anyway.

I have a wiring diagram and assembly list for a FCD if anyone wants to have a look over one. Reckons that it can be made for about $10 apparently. It is based on a SW20 and details which wires to tap from the ECU.

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I`m currently running 1.1 bar Approx 15psi with FCD and standard top mount. Any higher than that and detonation becomes a problem. Fitting a FMIC this week hopefully and then adding water injection when time & money permit. Should be able to run 1,5 bar but may also have to consider fitting a higher capacity fuel pump and adjustable FPR. See what happens. :thumbsup:

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So that must be about the limit for the top mount then. I have heard that the CT26 runs out about there too. Anyone gone down the FMIC route? Whats the lag like? I think that nothing would look tougher than a FMIC hiding behind a RC bumper :thumbsup: Just have to find one here... they are like rocking horse ****!!!

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Yeah. I agree with you on that, although the CS aint my favourite look. Much prefer the subtle approach with bodywork. I`ll be concentrating on styling when i get the engine and tranny as i want it. Could be a little while yet. :lol:

Let you know how the FMIC compares when its up and running :thumbsup:

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its the thermal efficiency, with the top mount to get power you can boost 16psi ish tops before you start running into bother - poor volumetric efficiency and heat spots etc.

a good FMIC will decrease chargetemps and raise VE... bonus all round. a must for over 270 BHP.

I love this turbo lark - very worthy hobby :D

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its the thermal efficiency, with the top mount to get power you can boost 16psi ish tops before you start running into bother - poor volumetric efficiency and heat spots etc.

a good FMIC will decrease chargetemps and raise VE... bonus all round. a must for over 270 BHP.

I love this turbo lark - very worthy hobby :D

Very !Removed! expensive one. :rolleyes::lol:

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however the charge cooler setup on the ST-205 is good for 450bhp but it is a bit of work to fit on a 185

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Yeah, I looked at that option but in terms of finance and possible future mods :rolleyes: It just made more sense to go the FMIC route. Less things to go wrong too. Hopefully. :D

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  • 3 weeks later...

Front Mount Intercooler. i.e. the intercooler is fitted behind front bumper for maximum airflow heat exchanging... all celica gt4's come with a top of engine mounted charge cooling set up... and the airflow is through a bonnet scoop - unless it is a water to air cooler, in which case it is a vent and not a scoop and isnt an air to air intercooler but still has a heat exchanger (like a car radiator) in the front bumper area... etc etc... :D

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The main point being. Top mounted I/C`s are notorious for heat soak.(Especially in traffic) Thats the build up of underbonnet heat warming up the intercooler, which in turn means the engine is sucking in warm air.... Not very efficient.

The Front mount negates this effect and allows cooler, denser air into the engine thus increasing volumetric efficiency. Or.. To put it in laymans terms. Gives a better bang :P .

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marvelous.

i'm goin to buy a new celica gt4 st185 tomorrow..the guy says it runs ok but the engines a bit smokey. he said someone told him it may be a piston ring.

any ideas??

tony.

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very much depends on the collour of the smoke. could be valve stems, piston rings or just a turbo with knacked seals.

the main thing to consider is - full toyota service history means more or less naff all on a GT4 Engine, and yes - whilst Toyota's are very reliable, these engines are so easy to stuff if they get abused, much like anything else.

If you buy a bad one, unless you can turn a spanner yourself, they very quickly get expensive and some mechanics wont even touch them as they are time consuming.

your best bet is to either - buy a good one from an enthusiast who hasnt ragged it and being modified lightly will still have a lot of puff in it - or find a straight laced stock/standard model that hasnt been touched, with good service history.

Ideally there should be no smoke at all. also watch for the rear diff banging.

regarding 'someone told him it could be the piston rings'... he obviously doesnt know himself or he's trying to hide something... judge for yourself and dont buy it if your in doubt as it can cost a grand to do a simple rebuild a 3SGTE engine.

best of luck mate :D

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