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110 Miles To £20


sid-uk
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been running my gt for a few months now and i am constantly getting 110 to £20, i drive it nice and easy and dont thrash it at all, changed my air filter for a new k&n panel filter, could it be my lamda sensor is goosed or something else, if sensor how much for it and can a noob fit it?

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Dude what's with the 98 ron on the import. I never new this.

Are you telline me that I should be running my Gen 6 import on that more expensive optimax stuff? I use the normal which is 95 ron I think, or is it 97?

It's definately not optimax. The guy whom I bought it from told me he used the regular unleaded too. It's the 3s-fe engine which I think makes it the ST but the book said 2.0L GT as I say above I'm figuring the mpg is good for the motor, It has a TRD exhaust on it too

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Dude what's with the 98 ron on the import. I never new this.

Are you telline me that I should be running my Gen 6 import on that more expensive optimax stuff? I use the normal which is 95 ron I think, or is it 97?

It's definately not optimax. The guy whom I bought it from told me he used the regular unleaded too. It's the 3s-fe engine which I think makes it the ST but the book said 2.0L GT as I say above I'm figuring the mpg is good for the motor, It has a TRD exhaust on it too

I'm sure you've seen about the RON difference on here - it's in a topic atleast once a week!

You should be running 100 RON in an Import Celica. You WILL be losing power by only running 95RON, even 97ROn (superunleaded) or 98RON (optimax) will still lose power, you should be using the best you can find and adding some octane booster.

The 1.8 7A-FE engine is the ST, in the UK we have a 3S-GE (i think) in the GT and in Japan they use a 3S-FE - which from what I can gather is a cross between the two. The 3S-FE should be a better engine as it will provide torque throughout the range wheras the 3S-GE will require revving to get power out of it, but will have more top end power

In Japan they have better fuel than us, so they set up the ECU to work better with that fuel - all to do with knock, and timing and stuff like that. I belive that the 100RON fuel will deliver more power but is actually harder to ignite therefore the spark comes earlier. If you use 95 RON the spark will be too early and it will ignite the fuel before the negine is ready causing knock - there is a knock sensor which will pick this up and !Removed! the timing (giving you even less power)

I think you need to get so your tank is nearly empty, put a decent quality fuel in and add some RON booster, then run the car through about 1/4 of a tank, to get the good stuff flowing through the pipes etc, then pull out the EFI fuse to reset the ECU.

Of course all of this I have learnt here and some may be incorrect ;)

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If anything is wrong with your car, it's most likely to be the lambda sensor. The sensor manufacturers spec their sensors to last ~50k miles, although they can go on working for much longer.

It might be down to your usage pattern though, 100% town driving and short journeys can get your mpg down below 20. 110 miles from £20 is about 22mpg depending on the price you're paying for petrol.

Dude what's with the 98 ron on the import. I never new this.

Are you telline me that I should be running my Gen 6 import on that more expensive optimax stuff? I use the normal which is 95 ron I think, or is it 97?

It's definately not optimax. The guy whom I bought it from told me he used the regular unleaded too. It's the 3s-fe engine which I think makes it the ST but the book said 2.0L GT as I say above I'm figuring the mpg is good for the motor, It has a TRD exhaust on it too

I'm sure you've seen about the RON difference on here - it's in a topic atleast once a week!

You should be running 100 RON in an Import Celica. You WILL be losing power by only running 95RON, even 97ROn (superunleaded) or 98RON (optimax) will still lose power, you should be using the best you can find and adding some octane booster.

The 1.8 7A-FE engine is the ST, in the UK we have a 3S-GE (i think) in the GT and in Japan they use a 3S-FE - which from what I can gather is a cross between the two. The 3S-FE should be a better engine as it will provide torque throughout the range wheras the 3S-GE will require revving to get power out of it, but will have more top end power

In Japan they have better fuel than us, so they set up the ECU to work better with that fuel - all to do with knock, and timing and stuff like that. I belive that the 100RON fuel will deliver more power but is actually harder to ignite therefore the spark comes earlier. If you use 95 RON the spark will be too early and it will ignite the fuel before the negine is ready causing knock - there is a knock sensor which will pick this up and !Removed! the timing (giving you even less power)

I think you need to get so your tank is nearly empty, put a decent quality fuel in and add some RON booster, then run the car through about 1/4 of a tank, to get the good stuff flowing through the pipes etc, then pull out the EFI fuse to reset the ECU.

Of course all of this I have learnt here and some may be incorrect ;)

The 3s-fe gen 6 is only like the UK st in that it is an entry level model (called SS1). Not sure if the 3s-fe needs 100 RON fuel like the 3s-ge does though. Not all JDM cars are tuned to need 100 RON, only the really sporty ones. Most 3s-fe engines only have a 9.8:1 CR, so that is a slight indication that they can cope happily with lower octane fuel.

The 3s-fe is definitely better than the 7a-fe performance wise (and probably in Oil consumption terms too, Sotal :P ). But it's a myth that it has more torque than the 3s-ge. The FE cylinder heads were designed with fuel economy and low emissions targets, a spin off of this is improved low rpm performance. The GE heads are designed for optimum power, and it follows that this will be at higher rpm.

Engine specs:

'95-'98 3s-fe: 140 ps @ 6000 rpm, 138 lb ft @ 4400 rpm

'95-'98 3s-ge: 180 ps @ 7000 rpm, 142 lb ft @ 4800 rpm

Engine data taken from this website:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/997...ineEngines.html

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The 3s-fe is definitely better than the 7a-fe performance wise (and probably in oil consumption terms too, Sotal  :P ). But it's a myth that it has more torque than the 3s-ge. The FE cylinder heads were designed with fuel economy and low emissions targets, a spin off of this is improved low rpm performance. The GE heads are designed for optimum power, and it follows that this will be at higher rpm.

:lol: hummmm, Oil consumption tests going good so far - damn hot weather keeps meaning I use the bike instead though so I've only done 100 miles

I'm just regurgitating what I've read before.

I'll sit back and wait for Karl to come along with some info on the fe vs ge as he's done s**t loads of research on them!! :lol:

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as a matter of interest i guess the Gen 7 140 VVti engine runs on 95 ron?

If mine (and Gordy's) experience with the 190 is anything to go by, you'll probably notice a real difference in driveability and responsiveness by using Optimax or similar other high RON (and loads of additives) type fuel. :huh:

I've been using Optimax for the last 4 months and won't ever change.......unless of course the price goes through the ceiling. :unsure:

Try it! :thumbsup:

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UK spec cars can run fine on 95 but myself and Dunc use Optimax as personal choice. Yes it is slighty more Expensive but it is meant to clean your engine better than normal fuel and like Dunc says we kinda feel it offers a lil bit more in the way of responsiveness when driving. :thumbsup:

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As Gordy says - it's only a little more expensive. If you completely fill the tank (in the Gen 7) it works out at just over £5 difference over 95 RON, personally I think it's a small price to pay.

Try it - you might like it!! ;)

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I have a gen 5 inport and have found using superunleaded, or supreme fuel from esso, gives me a lot more power, and a lot more mpg than I got before i switched from unleaded, costs about a fiver more a tanks, but im getting about 100 more miles to the tank :D

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how can u test the lambda sensor to see if its nailed?

You need to put a multimeter on the sensor output. This page has some detail on it:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/O2sensors.html

To make it easier, if your diagnostic connector has a pin labelled 'OX1', you should be able measure the output of the lambda sensor there.

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Hey

When i got my Twinnie i was getting around 70miles per 10.00, i serviced and still service my car every 3 months with Engine Flush, Mobil1 Fully Syn, Hydralic valve cleaner, Oil treatment, fuel injector, Oil filter and LOTS of LOVE and my petrol on motorways is around 130miles per 10.00 and 85ish on normal roads.

I personally think petrol consumption is due to the way the car has been taken care of, if you serviced your car PROPERLY not main dealer stylie RUBBISH then you should from a 2ltr GT get around 80-85miles out of 10.00 easily, my mate does in his N Reg GT.

My cars also gone a lot FASTER then b4, i can quite easily race competitively with my mates Celica GT but on motorways we are close till we get to around 80mph he then pulls away

I think its Servicing what leads to good or poor petrol consumption (not including holes in Xhaust and leaks and so)

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mine does about 50 miles for a tenner too. On the mororway its ok cruising at 70.

when i replaced my lambda my miles went up from about 40 to 50 on town journeys for a tenner and on motorway from 50 to like 80

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  • 6 months later...

only the jap 3sge and 3sgte need higher ron fuels. others are fine on 95 ron - i can get more than 110 miles from my gt4 driven carefully.

lambda , oxygen sensor = same thing really.

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theres a pinned topic by cookci comes under gen 6 celica

they are now cheaper as well £29.32 with flange including delivery bargain :thumbsup:

that should show u what lambda you need

when i changed mine tickover was a lot more stable and it seemed smoother

(could just be wishful thinking :!Removed!: )

i think they are supposed to be replaced every 60k so it wont do you any harm to change it

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