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sotal
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I've been guessing for a while that my clutch is on the way out. On Cold days it can be a bit of a pain to set of fast from a standing start, normally only for the first few minutes. I can live with that though because I try not to go fast for the first few minutes anyway.

The bigger problem I have noticed is that my bite point seems to be getting closer and closer to the floor. To change gear I have to make sure the pedal is right down to the floor and then it is fully in gear after about an inch of travel, leaving loads of pedal which does nothing.

Is there any way to adjust the pedal on these or is it all automatic adjustment?? Is it just showing that I need a new Clutch?? I did the test that someone posted on here a couple of months ago where I think it was go at 15mph stick it in 3rd or 4th and boot it, if the clutch is on it's way out the revs will go up but the speed won't, if it's OK the car will grumble and slowly move on. Mine appeared to be fine and did the latter.

Any ideas on cost for a clutch for the 1.8ST and fitting???

Also if the clutch is on it's way out - how long can I carry on for? and will it damage anything else??

Cheers :thumbsup:

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I got mine replaced right after I bought the celica, it makes such a difference, you can use the whole of the pedal travel, much easier. Mine had done 98k miles when I got it.

Try booting it in 2nd gear (quickly dropping down from 3rd) at 30mph, and do as quick a change as possible into 3rd, see if the rev's climb too fast and come back down, or stay static for a bit before starting to rise.

Bizarly though, mine was the opposite to yours, my last bit of clutch travel was toward the top of the pedal, like the last inch or two, before it was replaced. Not sure there's alot you can adjust either.

My thread on it, some stuff about adjusting it in here

Mine (GT) cost £300 fitted + VAT, for which the dealer paid half at the time as certain parts where covered by warrenty, and i'd just got it.

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Cheers for that, that was the topic I was looking for!

Yeah all the tests show that my clutch is fine, it does not slip when trying any of the tests suggested, but it does judder when cold/damp and the complete movement is right down at the floor which as you say is the oppositte of where it should be?

There was al ink from an MR2 site on ow to adjust freeplay etc, which has a troubleshooting section but none of it really fits in with my problem!

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I don't know about where it should be, you do have a slightly different car. Mine didn't really judder either, it was just much harder to control as the pedal was alot harder to push than the new one, and if you pushed it it would then just slip completly and the rev's would climb before the car took up the energy.

I don't know if its worth me guessing as I don't know a great deal, but my guess would be that the clutch travel is just down to wear and tear, and parts would need replacing. And that if it slips when its cold and damp, maybe moisture is getting in there causing it to slip (which then evaporates off as the car warms up).

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Sorry to sound like a dumbass, but I don't know much about clutches. I presume it is a hydraulic clutch as they list a master cylinder and slave cylinder for the 7AFE Celica - where would I check the fluid level??

Also I've been looking at prices for just the clutch and they seem to be around £50 - £100 depending on make etc is fitting going to be £200 on top of that??

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A worn out clutch will bite at the top of the travel, your problem suggests that it's not disengaging properly. I take it the ST has a hydraulic clutch? If so check the fluid level.

Probably be as well to bleed the clutch. Gets rid of any air that may be in the system and replaces the fluid with nice fresh stuff. Check behind the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to make sure it`s not leaking. Should be nice and dry. :thumbsup:

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Sorry - I can't really help so much. But my understanding was definately that when a clutch was worn, it would bite only right at the top of its travel.

Also £350 is about what you'd expect to pay for a clutch to be replaced. Certainly, that's what Ford's charged for my Fiesta Zetec-S last year.

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Are u just looking at the plate or the hydraulic parts as well?

From a catalogue:

include a clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing,

pilot bearing (where required) and clutch alignment tool.

A worn out clutch will bite at the top of the travel, your problem suggests that it's not disengaging properly. I take it the ST has a hydraulic clutch? If so check the fluid level.

Probably be as well to bleed the clutch. Gets rid of any air that may be in the system and replaces the fluid with nice fresh stuff. Check behind the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to make sure it`s not leaking. Should be nice and dry. :thumbsup:

Sounds like hard work :( This is where a haynes manual would come in useful! I have got a CD with some stuff on at home which gives some guides on how to do stuff - I'll see if there is a guide to replace the Clutch Fluid

Once replaced/refilled (if low) would this then raise the position of the bite point automatically or would it still require the clutch to be adjusted?

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Are u just looking at the plate or the hydraulic parts as well?

From a catalogue:

include a clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing,

pilot bearing (where required) and clutch alignment tool.

A worn out clutch will bite at the top of the travel, your problem suggests that it's not disengaging properly. I take it the ST has a hydraulic clutch? If so check the fluid level.

Probably be as well to bleed the clutch. Gets rid of any air that may be in the system and replaces the fluid with nice fresh stuff. Check behind the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to make sure it`s not leaking. Should be nice and dry. :thumbsup:

Sounds like hard work :( This is where a haynes manual would come in useful! I have got a CD with some stuff on at home which gives some guides on how to do stuff - I'll see if there is a guide to replace the Clutch Fluid

Once replaced/refilled (if low) would this then raise the position of the bite point automatically or would it still require the clutch to be adjusted?

It may well do. Anyways it`ll be one less thing to look for. It`s quite straightforward. If you nip into halfrauds and pick up a one man clutch/brake bleeding system it`ll make it a lot easier as well. Directions on how to use them are on the back of the packaging. Once you`ve done it you`ll wonder what all the fuss is about. :lol:

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It'll probably have to wait a while, this weekend is taken by moving the Water tank into the loft - should be fun :)

So just to confirm - nothing iss going to go bang/pop/wizz or seize or blow up if I leave it like it is for another couple of months???

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It'll probably have to wait a while, this weekend is taken by moving the Water tank into the loft - should be fun :)

So just to confirm - nothing iss going to go bang/pop/wizz or seize or blow up if I leave it like it is for another couple of months???

You want guarantees???? :lol::lol: Should be ok mate. If it`s not slipping and you can put up with it. :thumbsup:

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yeah - a guarantee would be nice. :lol: If it goes bang, I'll hire a tow truck to tow it all the way to the south coast across the ferry to your house, then drive all the way back. hmmm might be cheaper just to get it fixed up here :lol:

Seriously though cheers - I'll probably leave it for the minute as I can put up with it, then I'll have a look at the cheapo methods first - as in check there is fluid in!! maybe replace fluid/bleed then if that doesn't fix it, I'll take it to the garage :thumbsup:

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Seriously though cheers - I'll probably leave it for the minute as I can put up with it, then I'll have a look at the cheapo methods first - as in check there is fluid in!! maybe replace fluid/bleed then if that doesn't fix it, I'll take it to the garage :thumbsup:

Good plan. :thumbsup:

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