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Mark 1 Rav 4 Owners


sjrainsford
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hi there! In ralation to my other post about my pinking engine, i've been going through the process of diagnosing what may be causing it. During the check of the Exhaust gas recirculation system It dawned on me that I haven't got any info on a few things.

The first thing i'd like some nice person to do, is take a picture of their intake manifold. I need to check that all the vacuum pipes are connected correctly. Unless someone has a circuit diagram of the vacuum pipes? I need this urgently so I can re-assemble everything. By the way, it's a 1998 model, so doesn't have a distributor.

Secondly, is there a way I can test the knock sensor?

Thanks all very much in advance. I appreciate any help.

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Stuart - sorry don't have the info you need - used to have a 97 RAV but not now - given the damage that could be caused is it worth popping into your local Toyota garage and asking for an opinion / bit of diagnostic assistance - may mean a little bill and correct identification of fault that you could then DIY / get fixed elsewhere.

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Thanks for your reply AMH. My problem is, i'm an engineer and like to do things myself where possible.

I remembered that I had the Mitchell repair CD's from my Lexus. They have the toyota info on them too. Have found the vacuum circuit diagram and low and behold, there were two pipes mixed up!

Swapped them round, and it's like driving a different car! Only then did I notice that the throttle body has got letters written by each vaccuum port to identify where the pipe goes, so I coulda done it anyway!

The car is running much better now power and smoothness wise. It's still pinking though. This will be a trip to toyota though, cause I have no way of checking the knock sensor etc.

:thumbsup:

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Sorry to say i also can't help, the really sad thing is ,when i sold my1994 Rav4 , i let the genuine toyota workshop manuals go with the vehicle, and would of had all the info you wanted :crybaby::crybaby::rolleyes:

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It has got the right spark plugs?

They changed from memory with the facelift and should be

T90919-01198 with twin electrodes (denso K20tr11)

The old ones had a single electrode

I put a set of new type (01198) ones in my old 95 Rav and it ran better

with less jerkyness on light throttle

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Nice one Shutty! I'll have a look. From memory, they are twin electrode cause I gapped them not so long back. And with these it's not just a case of sticking the feeler guage in!

Don't know what brand they are though.

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It could be tapping i suppose! I dunno, am a little mixed up now! It's behaving like pinking though, it doesn't happen unless it's under load. The engine is smooth as otherwise.

Have bought some new plugs to be on the safe side, will pop them in tomorrow. It's booked into Toyota on the afternoon for them to have a look. I've run out of ideas now without OBD equipment.

May get some when I can. I've got it for the volkswagen. Mind you, you rarely need it on a Toyota!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update - again!

I went to Toyota, but a young lad looked at it. He drove it round the car park and said nothing was wrong. But he changed the pipes around and said they were wrong. But he never showed me documentary proof which pi**es me off. No offence to young people, I am one myself. But there's no substitute to experience.

So, i'm back where I started.

It's got no balls between 2700 and 3100rpm or thereabouts. (I changed the plugs too). It also pinks around this part too a little. I'm convinced it's pinking now.

And, can someone with a 1998 on mark one model please just have a nose under the bonnet, and have a look where your vacuum pipes are connected? Essentially i'm interested in the ones on top of the engine connected to the intake manifold and the EGR modulator valve. The modulator valve is the black circular thing with three pipes coming out and letters like P and R to label the pipe connections. Also, there are letters on the inlet manifold too as well.

I'm only looking for a small description like, a pipe goes from port P on the EGR valve to port E on the throttle body. There will also be a pipe from the EGR valve that goes down to the back of the engine, and one from the throttle body that goes to the back of the engine. It will only take five mins to make a note.

Thanks all in advance. I really appreciate any help. :thumbsup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Kept meaning to check this for you, Hope its not too late

From the air intake body just after the air intake pipe;

P - R

E - P

and P dissappears down the back of the block with Q and the pipe connected to the round device (part no. T25620-74320)

I have a picture on my phone if of any use

Im now wondering if mine are right. I would have thought

P goes to P but they dont look like they have been moved from day 1

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Hi Shutty

Yes yours are right. Funnily enough, P goes to P in the american market. I tried mine that way, and the fuel consumption rises quite a bit.

Another update.

My Battery has been crap for ages, it was struggling to start the car sometimes. Finally got round to replacing it the other day. Believe it or not, doing that has made quite a difference.

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