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Gauging Interest


Jamesb4uk
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Ok, i'm probaby gonna scrap/part out the Cynos.

Would anyone want any bits before she went to the scrappy?

Shes stock with 200,000kms on the engine & the engine was strong before the accident.

Apart from that - front & back bumpers were damaged, inc the rear light cluster (drivers side)

J

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nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

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Ok, i'm probaby gonna scrap/part out the Cynos.

Would anyone want any bits before she went to the scrappy?

Shes stock with 200,000kms on the engine & the engine was strong before the accident.

Apart from that - front & back bumpers were damaged, inc the rear light cluster (drivers side)

J

:( Thats a shame, costing to much to repair mate?

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Ok, i'm probaby gonna scrap/part out the Cynos.

Would anyone want any bits before she went to the scrappy?

Shes stock with 200,000kms on the engine & the engine was strong before the accident.

Apart from that - front & back bumpers were damaged, inc the rear light cluster (drivers side)

J

:( Thats a shame, costing to much to repair mate?

Yes mate - over a grand including parts :(

J

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ouch, you got any plans for a replacement?

Still thinking at the moment - i've got the 300 but thats too juicy for a daily driver (doesn't help i've got a heavy right foot)

I do have something in mind but i need to sort finances out first.

J

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are the cams from the cynos better than the seo?? if so im interested. and possibly the inlet manifold or even the ECU for me to have a play with

pm me with prices.

Jim

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if its the 5efhe, the ecu wont work with urs jim... as the 5efhe is an external coil engine, whereas the fe is a internal coiled engine.

Rich.

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the cams on a 5e-fhe are marginally better - longer duration & higher lift, you will have to be prepared to reshim them. Whilst James could supply the shims from his engine as well, marked accordingly, there is no guarantee they will the correct thickness as your engine.

You don't need the rest of the valvetrain, just cams & shims.

ECU will be different for the reasons given previously. The ECU also expects to see 225cc Sera injectors - a 5e-fhe ECU with Paseo 195cc injectors runs like a bag of nails, maybe the same t'other way round.

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the cams on a 5e-fhe are marginally better - longer duration & higher lift, you will have to be prepared to reshim them. Whilst James could supply the shims from his engine as well, marked accordingly, there is no guarantee they will the correct thickness as your engine.

You don't need the rest of the valvetrain, just cams & shims.

ECU will be different for the reasons given previously. The ECU also expects to see 225cc Sera injectors - a 5e-fhe ECU with Paseo 195cc injectors runs like a bag of nails, maybe the same t'other way round.

thanks for the input i wouldnt mind trying the cams and shims i can always re shim at a later date, would just be nice to have some at home as not the easiest to get by.

Jim

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not all 5e-fhe have the ACIS manifold. Some early ones, eg Seras, have the lightweight racing version ;-) as opposed to the big heavy ACIS thingy.

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james's has acis...i remember the thread about him asking what it looked like...then he looked under the bonnet :lol:

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andrew, do you think jim be able to get the acis to work if he had the whole head off the fhe with all attached sensors?

altho he will still have the 6k rev limit problem.

Rich.

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1. Get a Desoldering iron, pencil type soldering iron, 60/40, needle nose pliers and sum hand tolls to take apartthe ECU. Buy the crystal from Radio Shack or your local hobby shop (12974 kilo hertz quartz crystal).

2.Remove your ECU from the car and take off both the top and bottom case.

3. Discharge all static electricity by touching a metal grounded surface, remove and oils or dirt that could damage the circuits.

4. Locate the crystal that you need to replace. Desolder the leads on the other side of the board holding the crystal in place, be carefull not to use to mush pressure or touch any other soldered end on you ECU board, use needle nose pliers to remove the crystal as it could get a lil warm.

5. Make sure the two holes are clean and install the new crystal. Carefully hold the new crystal in place and carfully solder the leads in. Don't use to much flux as you dont want it conecting with any other soldered leads on the board.

6. Carefully trim the leads down to the board with a pair of wire cutters. Blow the board off with compressed air to make sure no dust or excess fluz is left on the board.

7. Inspect your work carefully.

8. Put it all back together.

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The danger is that it doesn't have a rev limiter so you have to be careful. Anyway once you've passed peak power and peak torque RPM figures you're not going as fast as you could, so change up a gear!

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yeah i know what you mean andrew, it wasnt on my list of things to do before i fitted the jdm 5efe inlet manifold, now its making power right up to the rev limiter... before it was out of puff by 5200rpm.

Rich.

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james's has acis...i remember the thread about him asking what it looked like...then he looked under the bonnet :lol:

Don't !Removed! remind me of that one mate.... :rolleyes:

J

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if i had the whole head i would have the cams mani and all i need basically. or i may have one of matts ITB conversions

Jim

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