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Timing Belt Query


edamduke
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I am getting my cambelt done this week, my local garage will change it for £130 using the part I bought from Mr. T for £43. He thinks I should replace the tensioner etc. but I've read on here that it is not too important as it is a metal one. Does anyone have any advice regarding this? I really don't want to spend too much (this time) and don't mind paying to have it all re-done at a later date (as I am starting my graduate job in a few months). However will I be creating any big risk if I do not get this done now? (car is 11 and has 74k miles)

Also, Toyota told me that when reconnecting the Battery there is a risk of a voltage spike that may hurt my delicate and irriplacable alarm and to turn on as many accessories as possible to reduce the risk. Has anyone heard of this and if it is important enough for me to tell the mechanic? and If so what exactly should I tell him?

Cheers,

Ben

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£173 is quite expensive - I paid £80 in total. I didn't bother with the tensioner because as said it is a proper one not like the Ford plastic efforts and my mechanic advised me not to bother - I presume mine is original and the cars done 115k

As for the Battery I have heard you should stick the fans on as a voltage spike won't hurt a motor and it will absorb it but I wouldn't worry and even if you tell the mechanic I doubt he'd listen to you :thumbsup:

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Cheers Sotal, I know it's not the cheapest but I doubt I will get it much cheaper in the SE. I have no idea how you managed to get yours done so cheaply. Very jealous :jawdrop: I think I will go for it anyway. Toyota wanted £245 so it's not all that bad.

Ben

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Prices probably are a bit cheaper round here - I used to live down South and everything was a rip off down there! Having said that though the average wage for my job is double down there compared to up here so I guess it all works out in the end :lol:

As long as your happy with the price :thumbsup:

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I got some ridiculous qoutes from non-franchised garages for my timing belt. Most were within 25% of the price I got from Mr. T - damn southeast rip-off :!Removed!:

Eventually got a qoute for 128 (incl belt) from a garage in Woking - but thats a bit far for you. I'd phone around a bit as you shoud be able to get the labour for under 100

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I got both cam and alternator belts changed, and a 9k service for £250 from millway garage in andover. The cambelt plus labour was £120 on its own. Great garage though, the car came back cleaned inside and out, and they do a discount for TOC gold.

It's pretty amazing really, 110k miles and nearly nothing at all has had to be done to the car thats out of the ordinary (oil changes, spark plug's and cam belt at 55-60k intervals). Apart from a new clutch at 95k, which was 1/2 paid for under dealer warrenty.

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Cheers Sotal, I know it's not the cheapest but I doubt I will get it much cheaper in the SE. I have no idea how you managed to get yours done so cheaply. Very jealous :jawdrop: I think I will go for it anyway. Toyota wanted £245 so it's not all that bad.

Ben

Sotal's car has a different engine - the belt might be cheaper, and fitting it is definitely easier (quicker). Your price isn't too bad for a 3s-ge belt.

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Cheers Sotal, I know it's not the cheapest but I doubt I will get it much cheaper in the SE. I have no idea how you managed to get yours done so cheaply. Very jealous :jawdrop: I think I will go for it anyway. Toyota wanted £245 so it's not all that bad.

Ben

Sotal's car has a different engine - the belt might be cheaper, and fitting it is definitely easier (quicker). Your price isn't too bad for a 3s-ge belt.

It was the same price for the 7a-fe and 3s-ge :thumbsup:

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Ok, change of plan. I am thinking of doing the belt myself. I have read a really good set of instructions several times a few weeks ago but cannot find them anywhere. I am pretty sure it was on here but may have been celica-club. It meantioned using a trolley jack with a plank of wood beleath the sump and a modified adjustable spanner to get the pulley off. Does this ring any bells?

Also can anyone check the part number of my toyota belt before I open it. 13568-79105.

Cheers,

Ben

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Ben. TBH it`s not a terrifically hard job. Bit tight on space. But i think you might really struggle with the bottom pulley & bolt. It`s torqued to 108Nm and loctited. Which makes them real SOBs to get off. But if you`re determined to DIY and if you want detailed instructions and a diagram PM me and i`ll e-mail them to you. :thumbsup:

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I am getting my cambelt done this week, my local garage will change it for £130 using the part I bought from Mr. T for £43. He thinks I should replace the tensioner etc. but I've read on here that it is not too important as it is a metal one. Does anyone have any advice regarding this? I really don't want to spend too much (this time) and don't mind paying to have it all re-done at a later date (as I am starting my graduate job in a few months). However will I be creating any big risk if I do not get this done now? (car is 11 and has 74k miles)

Also, Toyota told me that when reconnecting the battery there is a risk of a voltage spike that may hurt my delicate and irriplacable alarm and to turn on as many accessories as possible to reduce the risk. Has anyone heard of this and if it is important enough for me to tell the mechanic? and If so what exactly should I tell him?

Cheers,

Ben

the tensioner may be a steel one but the belt is being changed due to the mileage and so should the tensioner.if leaving check the bearing hasn t any noise dont want to strip it all down and then find you did need a tensioner after all.

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Cheers guys. The instructions are great. I think I might be able to do it now. Will a normal wrench and torque wrench be enough or will I need a proper tool.

Ben

Best method is as Mike states. Have the car on the ground. Handbrake fully on and in gear. (1st or reverse.) If you have someone available, you can get them to apply pressure to the footbrake as well.

Use a long armed 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (Shown below) with a good fitting socket. See if you can borrow one or failing that any good tool stockist should have one. They`re a worthwhile investment. I wouldn`t use a torgue wrench to undo it as you may damage the wtench. :thumbsup:

KTI23080.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I'm currently doing my cambelt and as you may expect am stuck on the crackshaft pulley. Is there any special techniques I should use to remove this? or do I need to get hold of a puller?

Ben

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Sometimes light tapping with a copper headed hammer while you try to tease it off helps but you are better with a puller as Dak said. Check the length you have from the pully to the nearest obstical on a horizontal plane. You may need to get a small puller to fit in the gap between engine and wing or drop an engine mount to lower the engine.

A simple two legged puller should do you job although a hydralic puller would be super!

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Cheers guys, I managed to make a very effective puller from a thick piece of Al and some bolts. Worked really well. Anyway, next hurdle... I have the belt on, all timed up and running sweet (the old belt actually looked very new, so kind of wish I hadn't bothered) All other cables, covers and ancillaries are in place but I cannot see how it is possible to replace the crank pulley with the PS belt. The closest I can get the crank pulley centre to the crank shaft centre is about 1/2" and there is no way on earth that the belt will stretch. It looks like there is a bolt on the PS pump which may allow the PS pulley to move in whilst I put the belt on but this will not budge either. Even if I can move the pump pulley, I will never be able to stretch it back to its original posititon and tension.

Is there anything I'm missing or a trick to do this? I'm considering taking the car to Toyota to put it right but it seems such a shame as I have come so far. Alternatively, I may leave the belt off all together. Other than the obvious stiff steering, will the effect the car?

Thanks,

Ben

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I was thinking about getting my timing belt changed....found out a vvti doesnt have one???

That's how I understand it yes. It has a much more resistant chain. You probably don't need to worry about it for the time you own the car. You are lucky, because they are a bit of a PITA! I'm still trying to replace this darn crank pulley and PS belt! (see above and please help... anyone :) )

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Ah ha. :huh: Um. There should be an adjuster bolt under the alternator iirc. Slacken the through bolt at the top of the alternator. Then undo the adjuster bolt. You should then be able to move the alternator back towards the engine, giving you enough slack to fit the belt. Thats the alternator belt sorted. :thumbsup:

The same applies to the power steering pump. Bit of a sod to get to though. Just had to go look at mine to make sure, as i`ve never touched it. :laughing:

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Cheers dak,

All done now and very pleased with myself (pats self on back). Thanks for all your help guys. Less than £60 for 3 new belts and piece of mind. Glad I've done it as it saved me at least a couple of hundred pounds, I don't really trust mechanics with my baby and I feel more experienced. :D

The alternator belt was not a problem because of the easy access tensioner. I managed to loosen the PS pump bolts when I got the engine mount back, jacked up the car and removed the wheel. A club hammer soon did it.

Thanks again.

Ben

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