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New Avensis Oil Consumption


dkan
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Just to confirm that you must push Toyota representative to repair as per warranty.

If your local dealer isn't agree with you, than put in written all circumstances to highest level you know (up to main office of Toyota) with copies to all other parties.

But you must have official service history (change of oil in authorised Toyota representative etc) as per normal Toyota schedule...

In past few years i insisted and i received guarantee repair of several cars (also not Toyota ones), which initially was not confirmed by local representatives.

When i put the question to Main Office of producer, all parties become highest level honestly, and i received what i want... :D

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went down yesterday just to find out services dept is shut on sundays :angry: by the way whats the recommended mileage a service should be done by toyota standards???

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In my Toyota service card there are 2 types of service mentioned.

A - 15,000km /1 year for VVT-I petrol and Common rail diesel, or 10,000km for the other engines

B - 30,000km /2 years for VVT-I petrol and Common rail diesel, or 20,000km for the other engines

Roughly that means - each 15,000km (not miles) oil and oil filter change and make some inspections (For diesel engines oil changes are on 7500km and 5000 respectively for Common rail and not common rail engines).

Each 30,000km besides oil change, there are fuel, air, aircon filters, sparks replacement and some inspectons.

If you want i can scan these pages from my Avensis manual, but i am not sure if in UK you have the same limitations/periods...

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hey guys, just to let you know whats happening with the avensis, went down toyota and they've booked me in to check the oil consumption over a 500mile period :D

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hey guys, just to let you know whats happening with the avensis, went down toyota and they've booked me in to check the oil consumption over a 500mile period :D

That's a good start famz :thumbsup:

Keep them moving and advice what happened :D

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But you must have official service history (change of oil in authorised Toyota representative etc) as per normal Toyota schedule...

It's not quite the same in the UK. You can have it serviced outside the dealer network so long as you can prove that the servicing was done correctly. This means keeping all the receipts for all the bits the servicing was done with, getting it done by a proper garage rather than your mate bob who just about knows one end of a spanner from the other.

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It's not quite the same in the UK. You can have it serviced outside the dealer network so long as you can prove that the servicing was done correctly. This means keeping all the receipts for all the bits the servicing was done with, getting it done by a proper garage rather than your mate bob who just about knows one end of a spanner from the other.

Thanks for amendment.

You explained more precisely :thumbsup:

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Heyy guys, u wont guess at what iv just gone and done..... :crybaby:

Iv lost my service book!!! iv spoke to the guy that usually services my car and he said that if i got him a new service book hed stamp it for me as he knows iv come for my services. so wanted to know if anyone has a spare service book and is willing to sell it. iv seen one on eBay for about £10 and its for all toyota 2000+ cars.

thanx :thumbsup:

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Ok,

So after 500 mile (800 km) motorway blast at speeds between 70-90 mph with a full boot for half the distance the oil level has dropped 2 mm. The car's a 1.6l VVTi 2002 model with 49k (78k km). I think I better start watching the oil more closely.

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Wish I'd checked this forum when I first started losing oil a couple of years ago. Dealer said loss was normal. Started using cheap 10-40 oil from Asda as it was costing a bomb. Realise it was probably false ecomony in the long run. Car is a type 2 yr2000.

Now done 150k miles and engine developed knocking once started - no knocking with plug leads removed and just turning over. Have experience of dismantling engines in my younger years, so don't want to pay £95/hour to the dealer to sort it. QUESTION: Please can anyone advise me if I should attempt a repair myself (would I need specialist Toyota tools) or should I go for a recon engine at £1500 given the mileage?

Thanks.

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Most of the tools are fairly standard. Only really specialist stuff is the socket for the head bolts which are an internal 'star' type and the flywheel bolts which are an external 'star' type. The rest a decent socket set, torque wrenches, spanners and screw drivers will do you once the engines out.

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Probably also worth mentioning you'll need replacement liquid rubber sealant for the chain cover and oil pan and new head gaskets at least. Quite possibly need a new oil pan (it's only a pressed steel pan and you'll easily damage the flange)

Also remember to take the vvt control valve out before taking the head bolts out otherwise you'll be needing a new one of those as well

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I've been on the end of a corolla 1.4 vvt-i using oil and havin a new engine after many trips to the dealer. My dads just had a new engine in his x plate avensis. Now when i went armed to dealer with the problems with the 1.4 1.6 1.8 vvt-i engines i was told its only cars from 2000-2002. Now if the new avensis is being affected by the same problem the new block designe must not be working. So my dads new engine after another 40k will go the same way. So that means that my 54 plate avensis will be using oil in around 20k time. Am i right or wrong? Do i part ex now for the t180 avensis or wait like i was till next year. I know of a 03 and a 53 plate avensis using oil the 53 plate has only 27k on the clock.

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My Avensis (1.8 2002) started using oil and my local dealer checked consumption over 1000 miles. according to them, half a litre used meant the engine would receive the warrantied work courtesy of toyota. Car went in last week: brand new engine fitted! Now running in and all is excellent. relieved and greatly impressed by quality of service.

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  • 1 year later...

In Aug 07 I bought a used 1.8 VVI Aventis with FDSH which now uses a great deal of oil. Problem is particulary bad when driven at 50-60 MPH.

Raised issue during service with dealer in early April 2008, nothing done. Discovered issue on this forum and went back to dealer who then performed an oil consumption test ( used 1 ltr oil in 950 miles).

Toyota UK rejected claim as car is just over 7 years, mileage now at 86K. Now awaiting quote for work from local dealer, sounds expensive. In March 08 we also bought a new Yaris. 2 Toyotas and a little frustrated.

Any suggestions?

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In Aug 07 I bought a used 1.8 VVI Aventis with FDSH which now uses a great deal of oil. Problem is particulary bad when driven at 50-60 MPH.

Raised issue during service with dealer in early April 2008, nothing done. Discovered issue on this forum and went back to dealer who then performed an oil consumption test ( used 1 ltr oil in 950 miles).

Toyota UK rejected claim as car is just over 7 years, mileage now at 86K. Now awaiting quote for work from local dealer, sounds expensive. In March 08 we also bought a new Yaris. 2 Toyotas and a little frustrated.

Any suggestions?

hello

the remedy is simple --- to purchase full gaskets/rings kit; dismantle + remove pistons + clear the drain holes on the pistons skirts + assemble again.

the problem is only there. as was reported - due to a rough design mistake connected with each pistons cooling the oil is converted into a slag clogging drain holes resulting oil suction into combustion chamber instead of draining into crankcase (!!!)

cheers/Igor

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the remedy is simple --- to purchase full gaskets/rings kit; dismantle + remove pistons + clear the drain holes on the pistons skirts + assemble again.

the problem is only there. as was reported - due to a rough design mistake connected with each pistons cooling the oil is converted into a slag clogging drain holes resulting oil suction into combustion chamber instead of draining into crankcase (!!!)

cheers/Igor

Due to wrong design of pistons, Toyota releases new design pistons, which to replace old ones...

On my 25k.miles 3ZZ-FE Toyota replaces : pistons (old one generally was perfect, but design was wrong), piston rings and dip stick.

Dip stick they changed to increase oil quantity as per Toyota instructions (shorter dip-stick).

Before repair engine takes 3.7litters of oil, after repair - 4.2litters...

I think 1ZZ-FE (1.8 VVT-i) engine suffers exactly the same problem and you can solve the same way...

About the price - i dont know, but anyway it will be expensive due to the parts and a lot of work needed... :unsure:

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the remedy is simple --- to purchase full gaskets/rings kit; dismantle + remove pistons + clear the drain holes on the pistons skirts + assemble again.

the problem is only there. as was reported - due to a rough design mistake connected with each pistons cooling the oil is converted into a slag clogging drain holes resulting oil suction into combustion chamber instead of draining into crankcase (!!!)

cheers/Igor

Due to wrong design of pistons, Toyota releases new design pistons, which to replace old ones...

On my 25k.miles 3ZZ-FE Toyota replaces : pistons (old one generally was perfect, but design was wrong), piston rings and dip stick.

Dip stick they changed to increase oil quantity as per Toyota instructions (shorter dip-stick).

Before repair engine takes 3.7litters of oil, after repair - 4.2litters...

I think 1ZZ-FE (1.8 VVT-i) engine suffers exactly the same problem and you can solve the same way...

About the price - i dont know, but anyway it will be expensive due to the parts and a lot of work needed... :unsure:

hello

sure this remedy lasts during the next 50k coz this time is exactly/almost when holes are about to be clogged.

i have got all the pictures of dismantling process as well as clogged holes as the prove what has happened.

either party interrested to send me email -ID and I'll send relevant photoes.

as to new designed pistons -- these must to have the same weight otherwise each crankpin as well as the main pin will be more loaded due to new pistons weight + extreme pressure in each cylinder + "g" + etc.

cheers/Igor

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The conrods are weight matched but the pistons are only graded by the diameter of the piston pin/hole. No weight matching of pistons required

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The conrods are weight matched but the pistons are only graded by the diameter of the piston pin/hole. No weight matching of pistons required

what do YOU wonna say?

the pair weight is adjustable by means of con rod grinding?

cheers

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....

hello

sure this remedy lasts during the next 50k coz this time is exactly/almost when holes are about to be clogged.

i have got all the pictures of dismantling process as well as clogged holes as the prove what has happened.

either party interrested to send me email -ID and I'll send relevant photoes.

as to new designed pistons -- these must to have the same weight otherwise each crankpin as well as the main pin will be more loaded due to new pistons weight + extreme pressure in each cylinder + "g" + etc.

cheers/Igor

Igor - you are 100% right that wrong cooling of the rings/clogged holes makes the problem.

But new design pistons have more holes and improved oil flow to help cooling of the pistons and preventing clogging due to overheated oil...

They are replacing old ones as 100% substitute, as they have equal weights/balance/dimensions..

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The conrods are weight matched but the pistons are only graded by the diameter of the piston pin/hole. No weight matching of pistons required

what do YOU wonna say?

the pair weight is adjustable by means of con rod grinding?

cheers

I'm saying that

- the pistons are not weight graded. They're graded by gudgeon pin diameter (A, B or C) but they have no weight grading

- The conrods are weight graded and also graded by gudgeon pin diameter (again A, B or C).

What it means is if you want to replace your pistons you can remove the pistons from the con-rods, check the pin bore grading (marked on the big end, on the side) and replace with pistons that match the rods pin bore grades. So long as you don't change the con-rods then there's no weight matching of any sort required.

If you wanted to change a con-rod for any reason you'd have to either source one specific weight grade to match the one you were replacing or replace all four. The former is generally not practical which is why replacement sets of rods are supplied in weight matched sets of 4

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The conrods are weight matched but the pistons are only graded by the diameter of the piston pin/hole. No weight matching of pistons required

what do YOU wonna say?

the pair weight is adjustable by means of con rod grinding?

cheers

I'm saying that

- the pistons are not weight graded. They're graded by gudgeon pin diameter (A, B or C) but they have no weight grading

- The conrods are weight graded and also graded by gudgeon pin diameter (again A, B or C).

What it means is if you want to replace your pistons you can remove the pistons from the con-rods, check the pin bore grading (marked on the big end, on the side) and replace with pistons that match the rods pin bore grades. So long as you don't change the con-rods then there's no weight matching of any sort required.

If you wanted to change a con-rod for any reason you'd have to either source one specific weight grade to match the one you were replacing or replace all four. The former is generally not practical which is why replacement sets of rods are supplied in weight matched sets of 4

clear now

thanks :)

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I've just brought a 53reg T2, 54k and reading throught the forums it seems like owners of the new Avensis are also affect by the heavy oil consumption ? Can anyone confirm this ?

Also, does this problem affect other VVTi engines, I also have a Celica 190, 42k miles 52reg, and it's been fine..not a drop of oil.

thanks

I have a Toyota Avensis VVTI (2001) and oil consumption was normal until 6 months. I need to fill the oil after a long journey (200 miles). I am looking for possible leaks but so far have found nothing.

Cheers

Maj

Hi

I had new short block on my 04 t4 tourer at 42k miles. Sounded tappety after one long journey, and dealer performed an oil consumption test (unfortunately after advising that a service - which it was due and cost around £400.00 - should sort the problem, of course it didnt) it failed quite substantially. Toyota immediately ordered a new engine and swapped it (in 1day!). Check the oil every month regardless, these engines are able to munch their way through a lot of oil and still remain with manufacturers tollerance.

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