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Gt28 And 8 Bolt Manifold


zebidi
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has anyone here fitted a gt28 before? how much reliable power can these make from the 3sgte?

and i can never seem to find an upgrade for the rev3 engines where do you get yours from lol

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www.tbdevelopments.com Tim will sort you out with anything and everything. Great guy and knows his stuff!

cheers,

Michael.

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GT28 should see 450bhp but you WILL need forged pistons and ARP hardware as a minnimum, also a standalone ecu and 840cc injectors.

XS power do a manifold for the rev 3 but not sure on their quality.

im running 470bhp on the rolla and still using the stock inlet and exhaust manifolds with some mild porting done

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GT28 should see 450bhp but you WILL need forged pistons and ARP hardware as a minnimum, also a standalone ecu and 840cc injectors.

XS power do a manifold for the rev 3 but not sure on their quality.

im running 470bhp on the rolla and still using the stock inlet and exhaust manifolds with some mild porting done

im trying for around 400bhp really and 360 at wheels, what is a realistic power figure i can achieve without opening the engine? Rods and pistons arent expensive its just the labour, i cant justify the total cost unless im aiming for 500 or similar.

everytime i ask for a power figure on the standard 3sgte i always get mixed answers, Gaz at Envy said that it will be strong enough to take up to 400bhp :blink: :!Removed!:

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rods and crank yess pistons tend to top themselves at about 330-350bhp or 1.3barboost on a CT series tubby.

i can get a full engine rebuild with forged JE pistons and ARP headstuds, all gaskets and seals replaced, all bearing shells replaced and the cylinder head overhauled for 3k drive in drive out.

im running stock rods and crank but im in uncharted teritory as mot ppl over 450bhp have gone for a tte crank and either eagal or carrillo rods. but i dont know of anyone who has broke either through too much power so fingers crossed

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rods and crank yess pistons tend to top themselves at about 330-350bhp or 1.3barboost on a CT series tubby.

i can get a full engine rebuild with forged JE pistons and ARP headstuds, all gaskets and seals replaced, all bearing shells replaced and the cylinder head overhauled for 3k drive in drive out.

im running stock rods and crank but im in uncharted teritory as mot ppl over 450bhp have gone for a tte crank and either eagal or carrillo rods. but i dont know of anyone who has broke either through too much power so fingers crossed

im thinking if you're running water injection that will help, there are some guys in the states running crap octane fuels that run 450 ish

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dont trust yank power figures the always over estimate!

water injection will be good as a safty net but wont keep your ringlands together. if you want over 330bhp (and thats not totaly safe) you need forged pistons minimum :(

you can run any amount of power on any std engine and it will run, its all down to how long you want it to last

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dont trust yank power figures the always over estimate!

water injection will be good as a safty net but wont keep your ringlands together. if you want over 330bhp (and thats not totaly safe) you need forged pistons minimum :(

you can run any amount of power on any std engine and it will run, its all down to how long you want it to last

thats why im still pondering to change internals or to not, pistons fine but thing is while its out you might as well eh? ;)

but im only aiming for around 400, near it anyway, i want decent power with good spool, some say the more than 350 at the wheels of an MR2 can no longer be used as a daily driver because of the front end.

grrr... im so confused.

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go for it.. get a forged rebuild. then your sure it'll be fairly bulllet proof untill you go for more.

always remember power is always controlled by the loud pedal.

the rolla wont accept the pedal being planted until fourth gear, you have to feed in the power.

a big power 2wd car makes you drive properly :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

an mr2 with 350 at the wheels is very driveable, i used to hit full boost at 4k rpm (started boosting at around 2k rpm) and it was very smooth, plus in the wet it was safer than standard as you wouldn't get caught out by full boosting at low revs.

my old car let go on the piston ringlands when being remapped (fuelling had gone to hell for a bit before the remap due do a split fuel hose and the dyno finally killed it off). was running a sard k27 turbo rated to 550bhp. the !Removed! run the 3sgte with 400 bhp on standard internals all the time, personally i think a lot of it is down to how well tuned the cars are. most people change the pistons just to on the safe side. the standard crank and conrods can handle 500bhp.

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thatstrue the japs seem to have mapping down to an art.

i saw an ST-205 that was running over 400bhp. my mate had it imported as a base for his project car and thought it must be a forged engine. after poking a bore scope down one of the cylinders he saw that the stock pistons were still in there :(

thing is tuners over here dont seem to be able to do it + the fact we havent got the same quality of fuel

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thatstrue the !Removed! seem to have mapping down to an art.

i saw an ST-205 that was running over 400bhp. my mate had it imported as a base for his project car and thought it must be a forged engine. after poking a bore scope down one of the cylinders he saw that the stock pistons were still in there :(

thing is tuners over here dont seem to be able to do it + the fact we havent got the same quality of fuel

that's spot on. my engine was running around the 400bhp mark and was set up for the track, so we thought forged pistons etc. when it was stripped to be rebuilt they found standard pistons, crank and rods, yet a different inlet cam, and ported and polished head. they'd had the engine apart but left the internals as they left the factory. anyone remember the car shahid was running at up to 2bar boost and 550bhp, the engine was all mapped etc in japan and was running on standard internals doing 1/4 mile after 1/4 mile and nitrous was added as well after a while, that engines still going as far as i know and it's been in the uk for over 3 years even being the daily driver of the last 2 owners. driven to the 1/4 mile, down the strip a number of times then driven home.

there was also the chap from usa running around the 550bhp mark (usa figures, normally about 10% higher than real figures) doing hill climbs on a 80k + miles engine and all on standard internals

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zebidi as you can guess from my forum name i'm screech from mr2oc. it's a shame you didn't decide to go for big power a while ago.

i broke my car which included (all rev 3)

sard k27 turbo (rated to 550 bhp)

sard external wastegate

sard exhaust manifold

custom 3" downpipe

approx 2" screamer pipe

hks stroker kit - longer stroke crankshaft and 87mm forged pistons

sleeved cylinder block (as far as i know it's the only 3sgte block that's been sleeved in the uk and not done abroad)

ported and polished head,

piper 264 high lift cams,

aem adjustable cam pulleys,

hks valve springs,

uprated injectors

uprated fuel pump

apexi power fc

greddy boost controller

apexi induction kit

custom single exit exhaust (had to be due to the oil cooler being where the right hand tailpipe should be)

phoenix power intercooler

greddy type r racing spec bov

grex (greddy) oil cooler (massive) with thermostat and remote oil filter location

i did the block, stroker, cams, valve springs, cam pulleys, and phoenix ic instead of the greddy it came with but as you can see it was well specced already and running nicely. the previous owner was probably a garage when you saw the quality of the work.

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heya screech, thats one big list.

how much octane do the japanese use over there then? yanks run like 93 ron which is ***** poor and they still manage big power.

wonder who can do the standard internal map..........

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the yanks use a different method of measuring power i believe. we use DIN IIRC and the yanks use SAE or the other way round so it does give a difference.

japan have 100ron as std but it also has a higher MON value too which depending on who you listen to is more important.

std ECU is not mappable so its a stand alone ECU if you want it doing.

dont be tempted by any piggyback ecus (Dastek etc) as they only modify the signals from and too the ecu and do not have the sope for propper mapping.

they are fine for a std import to make sure it runs ok but i have seen too many dead engines with the dastek fitted, i know its all down to mapping but they were all only running around 350bhp and had all been mapped at different places.

good ecus are Apexi Power FC (if you can still get one now theyve gone bust ), link seems good but not had much experiance of it, Hydra nemesis, MoTec(if your loaded),HKS F-Con but not many ppl map it over here.

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apexi i want, if i can get my mits on one that is.

i did think about motec before but i didnt deemit neccessary unless i was looking for some top notch track/drag monster.

the link system i always hear good things about.

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