Is It 12 Volts?

[JappyBeast]

Seem to remember last time I put a volt meter on my car when it was running it was at over 12v.

Reason I bring this up is that I bought a camera to put under my rear bumper, wired it all up with + and - and also the AV into the screen, went for a spin and it worked fine but when I switched it off and back on again (with a switch on the power lead and engine running) there was no picture, could I have fried it with a power surge?

Reading up on the camera, it says the power must not exceed 12v, so have I fried it?

Is there a way I can regulate it?

Why would they sell it as a car camera if its limited to 12v?

[bru]

when ya car is running it normally measures about 13.5v's this is down to the alternator. if its 12v or under the alternator is knanked!

anyway its possible that you could have blown it. check any inline fuses, and then check ya camera against another Battery 12v, hope its ok mate

[JappyBeast]

The inline fuse is ok, will have to take it all out and test it, its just strange that it stopped working after I switched it off and on again!

[Paul C]

is the camera made to be fitted to a car? I ask cos if it is then it should be able to take the slightly higher voltage that you will get.

[tehl337]

optimum charge voltage is 14.2v

[JappyBeast]

is the camera made to be fitted to a car? I ask cos if it is then it should be able to take the slightly higher voltage that you will get.

Yeah, its one of those ones from Hong Kong off eBay. Might just be a duff camera, cant send it back becasue I have cut away at the power lead. :ffs:

[Paul C]

oh bugger!

when you cut away the power lead was there any little boxes or egg shaped things or any thing on the power lead that may have been a voltage regulator?

[JappyBeast]

The little box is still on the power lead, is that a regulator?

[bru]

The inline fuse is ok, will have to take it all out and test it, its just strange that it stopped working after I switched it off and on again!

does seem strange like mate! don't no if it would matter but make sure your switched and permanent lives are the right way round!

[Paul C]

The little box is still on the power lead, is that a regulator?

at a guess with out seeing it and whats in it I would say it was.

[JappyBeast]

The inline fuse is ok, will have to take it all out and test it, its just strange that it stopped working after I switched it off and on again!

does seem strange like mate! don't no if it would matter but make sure your switched and permanent lives are the right way round!

Its a direct feed from the Battery with a fuse and a switch.

[Paul C]

have you got a link to one on eBay so we could have a look please?

[bru]

The inline fuse is ok, will have to take it all out and test it, its just strange that it stopped working after I switched it off and on again!

does seem strange like mate! don't no if it would matter but make sure your switched and permanent lives are the right way round!

Its a direct feed from the Battery with a fuse and a switch.

if its a cheap one they sometimes use cheap and nasty switches?? apart from that i'm stumped mate!

[JappyBeast]

Its exactly the same as this one,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Day-Night-IR-Car-Rea...1QQcmdZViewItem

[Paul C]

it does say in the description for that one 8-12 volts I would have thought if it was ok to connect straight to a Battery it would've said 8-18 volts. I think as you say its blown it

[Jimlad]

I've wired a few cameras along with alot of other things to quite alot of cars/vans etc.

Usually either taken from an in car 12v supply or a feed from the reverse lights. (for the camera).

You'll never get exactly 12v from a car power source, it can hang just under 12v or I have seen it around 13v. Saying that, I've never seen anything get damaged from getting 13v.

As long as it's got an inline fuse in it, I would guess the camera should be fine. I would take a multimeter out and test the connection at the switch you installed etc.

Also, I would advise removing the switch and having the camera wired to a switched live instead of directly to the Battery. That way, a) no stupid switch on your dash, and B) you don't run the risk of leaving the camera switched on. If your iginition is on (not the car running), the camera will be. c) you won't fry anything!

Saying all of the above, you may simply had had a duff camera that's now broken. But it shouldn't be because anything you've done.

As for where to find an easy switched live... try your cig lighter and also the switched live from your stereo wiring loom. Both will be fine for the camera. Or if you'r wanting it to come on only when in reverse then wire it into your reverse light. What I do, is whenever I make a new connection/switch etc, etc... I always test it with a multimeter to make sure the connection is sound. No point in wiring it all up to find out you've gone wrong somewhere.

Any other questions about wiring stuff in... ask away dude. I am fully IMI certified and do it for a living! :)

I had a new volvo 4x4 jeep thingy in the other day to get sat nav hard wired in... man what a job!!! Had to rip the car apart to find a switched live! Because of the fuse box location and the wiring on it, I couldn't get one from there, so went from the 12v cig lighter in the rear of the car! lol. So front to rear got ripped apart, wired in... then neatly put back together. :D

[JappyBeast]

I've wired a few cameras along with alot of other things to quite alot of cars/vans etc.

Usually either taken from an in car 12v supply or a feed from the reverse lights. (for the camera).

You'll never get exactly 12v from a car power source, it can hang just under 12v or I have seen it around 13v. Saying that, I've never seen anything get damaged from getting 13v.

As long as it's got an inline fuse in it, I would guess the camera should be fine. I would take a multimeter out and test the connection at the switch you installed etc.

Also, I would advise removing the switch and having the camera wired to a switched live instead of directly to the battery. That way, a) no stupid switch on your dash, and B) you don't run the risk of leaving the camera switched on. If your iginition is on (not the car running), the camera will be. c) you won't fry anything!

Saying all of the above, you may simply had had a duff camera that's now broken. But it shouldn't be because anything you've done.

As for where to find an easy switched live... try your cig lighter and also the switched live from your stereo wiring loom. Both will be fine for the camera. Or if you'r wanting it to come on only when in reverse then wire it into your reverse light. What I do, is whenever I make a new connection/switch etc, etc... I always test it with a multimeter to make sure the connection is sound. No point in wiring it all up to find out you've gone wrong somewhere.

Any other questions about wiring stuff in... ask away dude. I am fully IMI certified and do it for a living! :)

I had a new volvo 4x4 jeep thingy in the other day to get sat nav hard wired in... man what a job!!! Had to rip the car apart to find a switched live! Because of the fuse box location and the wiring on it, I couldn't get one from there, so went from the 12v cig lighter in the rear of the car! lol. So front to rear got ripped apart, wired in... then neatly put back together. :D

Is that you James? Are you ok?!.. alot of information there! lol.

I have a 12v live feed into my cockpit that runs the amp/sub and a few other things, the switch is hidden and I never forget to turn it off, I'm not bothered about wiring it into the dash as it will then in turn use the cars fuses.

I think its just a duff camera, will order another one.

[houston]

are you sure youve blown it? is there a light or owt to say its workin/not workin? could be video issues? too high or low resolution maybe?