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Sound Proofing


eingma
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does anyone know of a sound proofing kit for the Yaris?

I applied thin (1.5mm) sheets of self adhesive bitumen and (on top of them) thick (2cm) foam sheets in my doors, boot lid, inside rear wheel archs and it did a quite big difference. Another source for the rattling are the plastic "holders" for the door sides and the metal holders for the panels in the doors (for power windows buttons and so on). I glued them tight with some silicon glue and that helped. The door knobs can be quick noisy too... (I'm very sensitive for rattling sounds ;)

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my bootlid vibrates like a !Removed!...think its the wiper tho

how did you get into the bootlid to soundproof that matey?

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my bootlid vibrates like a !Removed!...think its the wiper tho

how did you get into the bootlid to soundproof that matey?

I just removed the thin textile panel on the inside by pulling out the plastic plugs and then I applied some of the self adhesive sheets I mentionded in my previous post:

15015343211.jpg 15015343273.jpg

Pictures were taken before I added the thicker foam sheets.

BTW: here is another tip about sound proofing the Yaris:

15016052858.jpg

Attach a cable tie like I did and put a piece of elastic band through it and around the metal stick connected to the door knob. Stretch the band a bit and superglue it together. Voila! Rattling door knobs are now history! :)

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  • 5 months later...

Hi there,

I thought I reply to this add as I've spent over the last 2 years soundproofing my yaris.

I started with dynamat in the door panels which began with

  • One layer of Fat Cat Deadmat
  • Then a layer dynamat
  • then a layer of Akasa Soun absorption material
  • then finally another layer of dynamat
  • finished off with a layer of sound absorption matting.

After I've put on the door cards i.e. internal part you remove to access door - two layers of dynamat and also a layer of sound absorbing wool fibre material.

I have applied to this to all four doors.

The next step I did , was sound proof the real wheel arches, completely took off the rear arch covers and put 3 layers of dynamat, a layer of sound absorbtion mat. Followed by dynamat the wheel well, then akasa sound mats for pcs and then dynmat again.

The front wheel arches have 3 layers of dynamat, and layer of dynamt extreme followed by another layer of dynamat.

The floor plan under the front seat and footwell for rear seat have 2 layers of dynamat.

The headline has even been taken off, and a layer of dynamat has been put up there.

Yes that was in the first year of having my new yaris.

Last year I went extreme with trying ot filter out noise from windows and seals.

I began with experimenting different door seals and using neoprene seals stuck at various location to block external noises, the windows themselve have tiny amounts of dynamt stuck underneath windown frame to make windows fit flusher againt seal hence block noise a little bit and also the rear boot door has been dynamated.

All in all I think I've spent about £2k on soundproofing without realising yet it's still noisy!

The only downside is after over £2k - the car is still noisy, it's slower becasue of weight and also still not perfect and I had a test drive in the new one during summer when my car was in for service and even that was quieter (I did 800 miles in 2 days in test car combining both driving down to london, to kent broadstairs back through london traffic and up the motorway at various speeds.

The plus side is the car is looks like it's slightly lower and it rides differently to when I first bought it and and it's much stable at motorway speed.

Anyway soz for long post - but I like soundproofing and I though since someone asked - I thought I reply! If anyone needs to ask how I took my yaris apart - hint - Haynes Manual - best buy!

If you want photos of my soundproofing in my Yaris - please feel free to message me and I'll send you some

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Hi there,

I thought I reply to this add as I've spent over the last 2 years soundproofing my yaris.

I started with dynamat in the door panels which began with

  • One layer of Fat Cat Deadmat
  • Then a layer dynamat
  • then a layer of Akasa Soun absorption material
  • then finally another layer of dynamat
  • finished off with a layer of sound absorption matting.

After I've put on the door cards i.e. internal part you remove to access door - two layers of dynamat and also a layer of sound absorbing wool fibre material.

I have applied to this to all four doors.

The next step I did , was sound proof the real wheel arches, completely took off the rear arch covers and put 3 layers of dynamat, a layer of sound absorbtion mat. Followed by dynamat the wheel well, then akasa sound mats for pcs and then dynmat again.

The front wheel arches have 3 layers of dynamat, and layer of dynamt extreme followed by another layer of dynamat.

The floor plan under the front seat and footwell for rear seat have 2 layers of dynamat.

The headline has even been taken off, and a layer of dynamat has been put up there.

Yes that was in the first year of having my new yaris.

Last year I went extreme with trying ot filter out noise from windows and seals.

I began with experimenting different door seals and using neoprene seals stuck at various location to block external noises, the windows themselve have tiny amounts of dynamt stuck underneath windown frame to make windows fit flusher againt seal hence block noise a little bit and also the rear boot door has been dynamated.

All in all I think I've spent about £2k on soundproofing without realising yet it's still noisy!

The only downside is after over £2k - the car is still noisy, it's slower becasue of weight and also still not perfect and I had a test drive in the new one during summer when my car was in for service and even that was quieter (I did 800 miles in 2 days in test car combining both driving down to london, to kent broadstairs back through london traffic and up the motorway at various speeds.

The plus side is the car is looks like it's slightly lower and it rides differently to when I first bought it and and it's much stable at motorway speed.

Anyway soz for long post - but I like soundproofing and I though since someone asked - I thought I reply! If anyone needs to ask how I took my yaris apart - hint - Haynes Manual - best buy!

If you want photos of my soundproofing in my Yaris - please feel free to message me and I'll send you some

You spent two grand on soundproofing?

99p gets you a set of earplugs! :lol:

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You spent two grand on soundproofing?

99p gets you a set of earplugs! :lol:

Lol - yes I did - a bit crazy but still may needs to get some as the new yarix MK2 car is still quieter.

Hey but who cares - I 'm keeping my yaris

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  • 14 years later...

Don't sound proof your cars. Not worth it. Just buy an another car, a silence one.

Quiet cars are not only better isolated=more deadening material, they are also designed to be quiet, considering bodywork, suspensions, aerodynamics, and that's expensive for manufacturers.

You can make your car more quiet by deadening, a little, (most of the time it's placebo) but in real work, it's expensive and interior trims are not design to be frequently disassemblet and they don't hold the same as new. You muffle some noises but bring the whole new spectrum of squiking noises or worst, you can redirect original sound chanel directly to the driver position.

Quiet tyre can help, and they will be also safer that old one, that's better investment.

And as always, best noise deadening tool is volume button on your stereo 😄

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My experience has been that - unless there's something seriously wrong with your engine - road/tyre noise is the dominant source of irritating noise. Most petrol cars when cruising or idling have virtually silent engines, so the best thing to do is pay attention to tyres.

My best experience (but yours may differ) is to swap to all-season tyres. The more compliant tread not only filters out more of the 'road buzz', you also get a significant reduction in tyre roar. It may also be worth opting for 3rd-party smaller wheels and higher-profile tyres (you can garage the originals, replace when selling the car, sell the other wheels/tyres, which is what I did). This generally reduces noise, as well as improving the ride - in my locality, the roads are in awful condition, so any improvement is hugely worthwhile (for me)

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13 minutes ago, SinglePointSafety said:

the roads are in awful condition

I think this seems to be the general consensus with the roads in the UK

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They recently resurfaced one of the back roads I sometimes go down (Crews Hill in North London) and whatever they used is AMAZING! It's so quiet and smooth, like driving on silk!

The transition is freakishly stark - You go from the normal road roar to near silence; I don't know what they've used but they should use it everywhere!!

I don't know how long it will last as that road gets hammered by HGVs delivering to the garden centres, but I'm enjoying it while I can! :biggrin: 

 

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You should try it round here, the ruts in the mud roads left by stagecoaches and ox carts are terrible.

I think our local MP is lobbying for tarmac roads on major through routes.

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Ahh, you must be the target audience for Toyota's new E-Track hybrid system! :laugh: 

 

 

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The UK road network has a lots of rough asphalt which cost every driver few mpg lost plus horrible noise when driving on these roads and they are more than 50% coverage. In Europe these type of asphalt been only used in mountain regions with sea levels over 1000 metres. 
For the tyres I will agree that all season or winter tyres with  V- shaped tread pattern reduces the road noise significantly, especially if your car oem tyres are hp to uhp mid range Falkens, hard as rock with huge gaps between the water channels and treads with deep blocks too. 
A note about all seasons tyres: 

these tyres especially the latest ones from the top manufacturers has stiffen construction and can be slightly harder and loose some driving comfort while offering a quieter ride. Also these are heavier and grip the surface more than standard summer touring tyres , therefore the mpg will be slightly reduced. 

Best tyres for hybrids imo are summer touring tyres, they are quiet, soft, comfortable, great on dry and wet , fuel efficient and only loose battle with all season tyres in snow, ice or off road and mud drives. One of the best in this class are Goodyear efficient grip performance 2. 👍

 

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TonyHSD, have stated this before: on a previous car I was able to do an exact A/B comparison replacing Michelin Primacy with Cross-Climate, no statistical difference in mpg (and doing the same journeys at same time of year/temperature), no discernible deterioration in bump absorption or comfort. I guess it really depends on what summer/all-season combination you compare, given that some all-season tyres (like the Michelin CC) are summer-biased, others are the reverse. All-season tyres perform better (grip, braking distance) than summer tyres at temperatures below approx 7C according to loads of tests - but that crossover point will obviously vary with exact tyre makes for the comparison

I happily admit that in the south of the UK with increasingly mild winters (until the Gulf Stream circulation ceases!) this 'window of advantage' is getting shorter each year on average....

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22 hours ago, RobertR said:

Don't sound proof your cars. Not worth it. Just buy an another car, a silence one.

Quiet cars are not only better isolated=more deadening material, they are also designed to be quiet, considering bodywork, suspensions, aerodynamics, and that's expensive for manufacturers.

You can make your car more quiet by deadening, a little, (most of the time it's placebo) but in real work, it's expensive and interior trims are not design to be frequently disassemblet and they don't hold the same as new. You muffle some noises but bring the whole new spectrum of squiking noises or worst, you can redirect original sound chanel directly to the driver position.

Quiet tyre can help, and they will be also safer that old one, that's better investment.

And as always, best noise deadening tool is volume button on your stereo 😄

Very good points on taking things apart and back. Some paddings can be done as well as going for quieter tyres. 

Main noise gripe on my MK3 hybrid are loud on hard acceleration which I do not like at all for driving medium-long distances. So just waiting patiently for my new MK4, noise from the engine are greatly reduced plus the vast improvements. 

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Sound proofing can be done quite effectively and without too much expense. The first thing to ensure is that all the seals are intact and sealing well.

As above, tyres are a very important factor.

There are a few stages to noise reduction:

Damping - using something like damplifier on around 25% of the surface

Absorption- using a dense open cell foam to.absorb airborne noise

Blocking - using a decoupled mass loaded layer, eg a closed cell foam stuck to mass loaded vinyl

Key areas are outer door skins for the dynamat/damplifier product, inner doorskins/doorcards for the absorption and isolated mass loaded vinyl

Also worth looking at suspension rubbers to see they're not worn out or disintegrated.

Parcel shelf also allows noise through so this would benefit from dense open cell foam.

Rattles (in the mk1) are mainly because the plastics used are now quite hard and not like those used in premium cars.

By the way you really dont need to cover more than 25% of your door skin, contrary to what some would like you to believe. I also think that roof flashing is not an equivalent substitute. Get the proper stuff, its only a bit more expensive and you really dont need an awful lot.

 

HTH

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/11/2022 at 4:51 PM, corradovr6 said:

Damping - using something like damplifier on around 25% of the surface

Absorption- using a dense open cell foam to.absorb airborne noise

Blocking - using a decoupled mass loaded layer, eg a closed cell foam stuck to mass loaded vinyl

Key areas are outer door skins for the dynamat/damplifier product, inner doorskins/doorcards for the absorption and isolated mass loaded vinyl

Hi there! I would like to reduce noise of my 2017 Yaris, I wanna buy some sheets of alubutyl for inner door panels, but what material can I buy for the other reduction? What for absorption and blocking?

when I close the door I hate that plastic rattling, and with bad roads and icy temperatures the car is a continuous rattling (I wanna put some grease on the instrument panel - to disassemble totally - I've already put some grease on windows switcher and SILENCED)

only 4 doors, still don't know if I'll do the roof also

 

thanks! 

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13 hours ago, Vins213 said:

Hi there! I would like to reduce noise of my 2017 Yaris, I wanna buy some sheets of alubutyl for inner door panels, but what material can I buy for the other reduction? What for absorption and blocking?

when I close the door I hate that plastic rattling, and with bad roads and icy temperatures the car is a continuous rattling (I wanna put some grease on the instrument panel - to disassemble totally - I've already put some grease on windows switcher and SILENCED)

only 4 doors, still don't know if I'll do the roof also

 

thanks! 

You can get dome self adhesive closed cell foam from eBay to stick on the door cards. Bear in mind that, whilst cold, plastics will creak and click as they expand and warm up. Between panel fittings use some self adhesive felt. A silicone spray like wd40 silicone (yellow cap) is also good for panel squeaks and window runners.

Lastly, dont ignore door and sunroof seals. Use something like gummi pflege to keep them moisturised and flexible.

 

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2 hours ago, corradovr6 said:

 

You can get dome self adhesive closed cell foam from ebay to stick on the door cards. Bear in mind that, whilst cold, plastics will creak and click as they expand and warm up. Between panel fittings use some self adhesive felt. A silicone spray like wd40 silicone (yellow cap) is also good for panel squeaks and window runners.

Lastly, dont ignore door and sunroof seals. Use something like gummi pflege to keep them moisturised and flexible.

 

The silicone spray wd-40 yellow cap works great also on all rubber seals and suspension bushes on any Toyota car. Been using this for years with great results. 👌

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2 hours ago, corradovr6 said:

 

You can get dome self adhesive closed cell foam from ebay to stick on the door cards. Bear in mind that, whilst cold, plastics will creak and click as they expand and warm up. Between panel fittings use some self adhesive felt. A silicone spray like wd40 silicone (yellow cap) is also good for panel squeaks and window runners.

Lastly, dont ignore door and sunroof seals. Use something like gummi pflege to keep them moisturised and flexible.

 

My idea is to apply this product on the external wheel arches (https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07ZQQJ1CD/?coliid=I23D88N1FYR7OR&colid=T4DKPE9DR143&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)

This for the inner door panel (https://www.amazon.it/dp/B071RGKWB5/?coliid=I13R7NEZD0E121&colid=T4DKPE9DR143&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) and also some of this product (https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07TKXCN6F/?coliid=I2WIE936HIVK0A&colid=T4DKPE9DR143&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)

 

Are the materials good for the insulation job?

For the roof I have no idea which material to buy, because I wanna thermal and noise insulation

 

for the sealing: I'm using a generic silicone spray (like the yellow cap WD40), but in some plastic joints I put light grease with success (no more crunchy)...my focus now is for the upper front panel (see image), it seems easy to take it apart

IMAGE 2023-02-08 13:20:43.jpg

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On 11/24/2007 at 12:47 PM, gar said:

You spent two grand on soundproofing?

99p gets you a set of earplugs! :lol:

Or just turn up the volume on the radio.  😉

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Just now, Jimota said:

Or just turn up the volume on the radio.  😉

The best way for sure, but some people are perverted and want a premium car interior even on small cars 🤣

You know, when you close the door and hear that solid 'bump' rather than 'SBAM' 😂

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