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Mk3 Supra


Thorburn
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Hi, I'm looking to buy a Mk3 N/A Supra and was wondering what sort of things should I look out for.

I'm just after one for occasional road use and perhaps the occasional trackday and am also interested in the cars handling characteristics, performance, etc.

Finally, how much weight can you lose by removing the rear seats and stuff like that. Do you need to tell insurance if you do this?

Anyone got any advice?

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You need to lose weight from the front really as its got a 48/52 weight distribution, but there's not alot to strip. Not really suited to track as they're quite heavy. Any reasons for going for the N/A???

Come and say hello at www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs the mkiii owners group.

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Might look for a turbo actually as hadn't checked the insurance (assumed it would be way too much but is actually the same as the other car I've been looking at, the S13 Nissan 200SX). Being 19 its still quite high, although funnily enough less than I pay for a 1.4 Honda Civic at the moment!

Surely I'd want to lose weight from the rear of the car so as to bring it closer to a 50/50 weight distribution. Even so I'd not be worried about heavy track usage and I do know some people who use BMW M5's on track without trouble and they weigh 1700kg base spec, more with extras.

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Wheres all the weight gone into then? Engine is aluminium I'm guessing so surely it can't account for much more than 200kg - 250kg

Is the car really just that over-engineered?

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Things to look out for... head gasket, ball joints, occasional big end trouble (rare but somethng to check), apart from that not much..all the usual turbo car stuff. If you're going to put it on the track regular then you will almost certainly have head gasket problems... but as long as youre handy with a spanner it shouldn't create a problem.

For a heavy car they handle remarkably well. You can get 300bhp with the turbo fairly easily without any major mods.

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the engine is cast iron!!!!

if your worried about weight you ccould go for a narrow basied 2.0 twin turbo GA-70, but they are down on power.

the bonnet weighs a tonne on them, that would be a good place to save weight ;)

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Wouldn't go for a twin turbo as insurance is too high unfortunately.

I've heard you can get a metal head gasket from HKS? Would this solve the problem of them blowing?

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wel..yes and no. some people spend a lot of time and money getting a mhg, skimming the head and block.. and it still blows. It'll certainly be better than the stock gasket but no gaurantees.

I've heard that the 'stopper type' gaskets can be more sturdy?

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How bad is the risk of the head gasket going? Is it a case of a standard one will last a say 10,000 miles at a time or is it just a random could happen at any time thing?

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The stopper type MHG are meant to seal better. It all depends if you have any mods in mind, if your just planning to run BPU levels then the stock HG will be ok as it has been improved in recent years.

The heads are aluminium on the 7m and the block cast iron.

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Looks like I'll be looking for a turbo in the new year.

Will replace the hg as soon as i buy it and then keep it standard as at 19 I think mods will cost more than a little :unsure:

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God how times change, wish i could have had a 230 bhp car when i was 19 :D

Make sure you come and say hello over at www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs

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Blowin Head gaskets. lol.

Im well used to that scenario havin owned Loads of Stags and TR7s. I didn't think any jap cars had that as a problem.

Is the 6 pot Supra prone to this? Mine was fine and my Lexus had been to the moon and back and never showed any cooling problems.

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The 7m-gte/ge are unfortunately prone to BHG.

But there has been a few 2jz-gte's blow them recently.

And there's not enough 1jz-gte's really to hear about.

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I have just written a 1700 work mk3 supra buying guide.. it'll be on my site tomorrow I'mmPM you a link directly to it :) other mk3 heads can read it slate me for all my mistakes :thumbsup:

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You need to lose weight from the front really as its got a 48/52 weight distribution, but there's not alot to strip. Not really suited to track as they're quite heavy. Any reasons for going for the N/A???

Come and say hello at www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs the mkiii owners group.

I'd argue with that. Once met a racer who cam 3rd in a MA70 turbo... he was racing against camaro's and mustangs!!!! Nice bloke :D

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wel..yes and no. some people spend a lot of time and money getting a mhg, skimming the head and block.. and it still blows. It'll certainly be better than the stock gasket but no gaurantees.

I've heard that the 'stopper type' gaskets can be more sturdy?

I herd that they made the block to long, which is the cause of this. Guess there might be more room to bore it though :D

I also herd you should torque the head down, way over standard spec.

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I've heard that the 'stopper type' gaskets can be more sturdy?

Use a coper H/G and O'ring the block then.....

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Theres loads of reasons for the HG going.. poor HG construction, walls too thin between bores, poor torque settings from the factory, bad waterway design.. etc etc.

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salso apparently there is a small "V" in the casting near is to the aircon pump, it easy get gunged with oil/dirt/gunge and causes localised heating.. not sure how true this is.. but nevermind.

standard head bolt torque is 55lb/ft I think?? put then up to 70-75 and you'll have no problems!!! moth my 7M engines blew the bottom end before they headgasket failed :lol:

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wel..yes and no. some people spend a lot of time and money getting a mhg, skimming the head and block.. and it still blows. It'll certainly be better than the stock gasket but no gaurantees.

I've heard that the 'stopper type' gaskets can be more sturdy?

I herd that they made the block to long, which is the cause of this. Guess there might be more room to bore it though :D

I also herd you should torque the head down, way over standard spec.

Quite the opposite, they made it too short as the thickness between the cylinders is minimal, biggest you can overbore is +40 thou.

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Thought I'd pop in and add a little to this.

Main contributions to bhg is all of the above and originally, the composition of the original Toyota headgasket. I think they made the sealing rings from a different material, or changed the size of them, although I guess once the hg has blown once, unless you take your time fixing it properly and getting the block and head properly straight/finished its a waste of time.

When I do mine next year (not thats its in danger of going, just preparing for 20psi of boost) I'll probably do the copper headgasket and get the block wire ringed, too much money going into the engine to take the risk of stuffing it all up with a knackered gasket.

Also, whatever you do, never ever let the oil run low, it will kill your big-ends double quick, as certain people on the mk3 board have found.

BTW, a decat, filter and 5mm of washerisation on the actuator are hard to find and make a world of difference to the car. :P :D

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