vicegrips

D4d Engine Fault

Recommended Posts

Wee bit off. Try: Lindop Toyota, or send him a personal message through the forum.

Ah right i thought that was the web site did'nt realise he was a member of the site, just as well i asked or could of been looking for some time for that site lol, how would i send him a message through the forum

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi spider

If you do decide to fit them yourself could you please post your experience on here.I think I might have to replace them on mine in the very near future and I don't fancy paying £200 for the labour if i can do it myself.

Regards

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes no problem, I was just looking on the technical info forum on how to do it and it looks quite straight forward, so once I get them i'll post how I got on when trying to fit them and if it solved the problem

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes no problem, I was just looking on the technical info forum on how to do it and it looks quite straight forward, so once I get them i'll post how I got on when trying to fit them and if it solved the problem

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how would i send him a message through the forum

Parts-King

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is easy. If you take the plastic shield off under the engine and put it on ramps you might find it easier. Just stick your head under and have a look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is easy. If you take the plastic shield off under the engine and put it on ramps you might find it easier. Just stick your head under and have a look.

Just so I know its the correct guide I was looking at is it 2 valves one red and one green, its just in the guide it referred to the scv as suction control valves

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is easy. If you take the plastic shield off under the engine and put it on ramps you might find it easier. Just stick your head under and have a look.

Just so I know its the correct guide I was looking at is it 2 valves one red and one green, its just in the guide it referred to the scv as suction control valves

Those are the ones :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again i have changed the scv's which was a ok job just a bit cramped to get into them, but i am still having the same problem the power keeps cutting as if in limp home mode will i need to get the fault codes cleared to solve the fault after replacing the scv's or is it going to be something else thats now at fault

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Usually, as long as the orange light goes off it will come out of limp mode and still store the codes. You do need to get them cleared but you should be able to put the light out by disconnecting the Battery for a few seconds.

You did change the fuel filter didn't you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never had an orange light to start with. Toyota garage just did diagnostic on it and said it was scvs. Havnt changed fuel filter - didnt know i was meant to. Do you think changing the fuel filter will solve the problem? Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hispider

Bit of a bugger if you replaced the SCV valves and you still have the problem.

I recently purchased an error reader off ebay and would recommend it , it gives you all the codes and you can delete them as well here is a link to my post on it http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=118064 .

My RAV has been playing up again, every day this week .When I start the car in the morning,on the second turn of the key not on the usual first turn , and start my journey I have very little power for the first couple of miles while the engine warms up ,then the yellow engine light comes on.For the remainder of the day no problems and the light will eventually go off.Same thing the following day ,I have now resorted to starting the car 15 min prior to the start of my daily journey so that it warms up .When I get into the car after the 15 min warm up the warning light has come on but the power is ok and for the rest of the day again no problems.

I think my problem is the SCV valves as other people have had the same error code as I have had and the problem was solved by replacing them. It looks that I will have to buy them next week and try and replace them myself.Did you follow the advice on here where it shows photographs of how it is done or did you place your car on ramps and accessed them from below ? How long did it take ? I really dont want to spend £200 on labour with MrT having just paid £500 for a 60000m service last month.

Out of interest does anyone know if the SCV valves come under the extended warranty (after 3 years) with Toyota .

Regards

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have tried disconnecting the Battery just to see if it made a difference but still getting the same problem I have also noticed that I do not need to be driving the car if I am stationary and try to hold the revs at 2-3rpm it cuts the throttle and the engine normally cuts off and I need to restart it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just change the fuel filter and take it out of the equation. You can find details in the pinned section.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will do. Ive sent a PM to Parts-King for a price for the part and your instructions in the pinned section look good. Just going to have a good look through them now to check it's something I could manage myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all, ive got a yaris d4d and have been having this very same fault, driving along when the engine will just die and go into limp mode, however it was taken into the local garage and the mechanic said that the throttle pedal was at fault ( i believe its a electric type? ) he cleaned the workings and the car was fine for 3 months or so then it started again, garage cleaned the throttle pedal again and the car was fine for about 6 mths until the problem came back, it was cleaned again and the car has been ok since but has now developed a different fault where it dies when pulling away from a standstill :( The odd thing is someone removed the turbo before i got the car so its now naturally aspirated meaning its definitely not a turbo fault with mine, lol. The car has done approx 40k like this and apart from the lack of performance seems fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have got the same problem with my 2001 D4D Corolla. Under 3000rpm everything is just fine, but acceleratin with more than 3000rpm will cause lack of power. Not always, but almost. And it can happen with less than 3000rpm also if I drive at the same speed for a while. let's say if I drive with the 3rd gear for twenty seconds at 2500rpm and then try to hit the pedal to the bottom it starts to accelerate veeeeery slowly. Quite often the engine lamp goes on.

It gave the error code 78/8 fuel pump malfunction or something like that. The MAF is clean, I cleaned the EGR which helped a little bit. Now the problem occurs only with the 3rd or higher gears. Next I thought I could check the wastegate and see if it is stuck. But I'm not sure where to locate it? It should be close to the turbo of course, but I'm not sure where that is either. Should I go under the car to find both of them? Or am I just stupid? Last car was from the 80's so it was quite simple compared to this one :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Just registered with the site as I have been ( yes you've guessed it) having this loss of power problem when accelerating. I've found it seems to be ok in 1st , except when cold, but always happening in the other gears. So far I've given the EGR valve a good clean. Fuel filter replaced. Tested the MAF. All with no effect. What did puzzle me was when it happened at christmas the AA man came out. He noticed that the Oil level was pretty low. I had done an Oil change not long back and I guess the filter had sucked up a load of Oil. My fault entirely. He topped up the Oil. He also tested the 'wastegate' ie variable guide vane actuator using a vacuum tester. Went for a test drive. All hunky dory... up until last week. Happened again. Grrrrr. It has had a code tester on it. It bought up the EGR, MAF and a fuel flow faults

Could it be a sticky vane actuator and can this be removed and cleaned? Or is there a way of testing the VSV. I'm being tight as I don't really want to have to fork out a load of cash on something that I may beable to fix myself. :donatello:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi ive folowed this topic of power loss from the start to the present anchorman is very clued up on the issue im having a bit of a problem myself my previa 2.0 d4d suffers from sluggish acceleration up to about 1500 rpm then no power at 3200rpm like a turbo dump valve opening but no sound it seems like the engine is waiting for the turbo to spool up yet if revved out of gear it will rev to 4700 rpm freely oddly as well no fault lights on the dash ive had quite a few toyotas in my time petrols and diesels which over the years have proved excellent but reading the amount of problems associated with the d4d and lack of correct diagnosis i think toyota have let a lot of people down but they dont care as cars booked in for repairs is just another source of income for them whether the get it right or wrong ill probably get slated for saying this but the truth hurts

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the level of support you get is down to the dealer and I personally wouldn't be taking your previa to them for what might be quite a long process of elimination. Without fault codes, you are guessing and the symptoms you describe could be related to the turbo, SCVs or even poor fuel supply.

Star at the beginning Mark and change the fuel filter. You would be surprised how often that even catches the dealers out. Next get any fault codes that are stored. For the moment we are assuming there are none.

The next thing is to run some checks that cost you nothing. I'm not familiar with the layout on the Previa but if you find the vac unit on the turbo, remove it and work the linkage to the turbo it should feel dead free like it is connected to nothing. If not, plenty of WD40 and working it back and too. Next, bypass the VSV. Follow the pipe from the vac unit back to the engine and you will find it goes to a little valve. Mark the pipes, disconnect them and use a bit of tube to connect them together.

Try all this and if it doesn't work you might end up trying a pair of SCVs. Kingo said they had come down in price so you will have to pm him for details.

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all I have been going through this thead with interest. I have been suffering the same symptoms as many of you have described, poor acceleration, surging, limp mode, engine light. The good news is I have finally kicked it. It all started a couple of weeks ago when the panic buying of fuel was on and I can only assume I picked up some mucky diesel. After changing the fuel filter I noticed a brief improvement in performance for 50-75 miles then back to the previously described symptoms. After another filter change, I was about to change the SCVs(at vast expense) when it dawned on me the problem may lie in the tank. It turns out the fuel line was partially blocked and after blowing through the tube with a low presure airline(30 psi) the fault has cleared.

My question is what is inside the tank, apart from the fuel-gauge sender? I assume a draw tube with a strainer or a filter sock... does anyone have any further information?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ive a similar problem lack of power up to 1800 rpm then turbo pulls in then goes dead at 3300rpm but no mil lights on ive just been to an independant mechanic amongst other things he reckons it could be an air leak on the pressure side of turbo if it doesnt reach the predefined pressure it sends a false signal which then cuts the fuel down because the ecu thinks the engine isnt under that much load

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its a combined sender unit with the float for the fuel guage and the pick up pipe. The petrols have a course filter nut not sure about the diesel. On some you can get at it under the rear seats. I will have a look in the manual when I'm at my desk top computer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

forgot to mention mines a dreaded 2.0 d4d diesel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now