vicegrips

D4d Engine Fault

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I'm afraid I've only got tank drawings for a petrol which are quite different.

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this may be a bit late for some people who have been following from months ago but the top end acceleration is now sorted i went through the checks you mentioned anchorman ,cheers for that ,and it seems to have been caused by a leaking turbo pipe on the pressure side, the telltale sign is a slight rasping noise as the revs deadline you have to give the car a bit of a thrash to hear it and the noise is only slight, i suppose that depends on the severity of the leak, heres a list for you d4d sufferrers that wont cost much to check before handing out hard earned cash

1 replace fuel filter and check air filter ,remove fuel pipe from tank to filterhead and blow through just in case there is a pickup pipe filter blockage in the tank [just incase]

2 check and clean erg valve

3 check intercooler isnt clogged

4 check all hoses and clips on the tubo the pressure side clips must be quite tight

5 check the actuator is moving the valve on the turbo freely, when you start up it should pull up[ well mine does]

6 check the timing marks line up ,it may have jumped a tooth [slim posibility]

7 supect scv valves though you have to buy these

mines still a bit sluggish at the bottom end of the rev range but im hopefully getting there i think the engines had a fair bit of messing with as it seams to have had new scv valves [damage nuts on them] and bolts missing on the turbo unit ,any ideas on the sluggish bottom end? im wondering if the actuator linkage has been messed with as a bolt was missing on this!

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Whilst looking at the engine the mechanic noticed that a particular part seemed to have had something broken off (we couldn't work out what part it was). After a call to Toyota with the part no. (25819-27030) it is seemingly a vacuum regulating valve (I assume the same as a VSV?). It looks like there is glue around the broken plastic, as if someone in the past has broken the part and then glued it back together. Attached is a photo (VSV.jpg) of the offending part with the 'broken' bit with old glue (white residue) circled in red. I have tracked down some photos of Previa engines from autotrader (also attached as d4d engine.jpg), and the part os clearly visible with a grey part on top of it - the bit missing from my part I assume? What does this broken off bit do?

Could this be what is causing my problems? Or is this part nothing to do with acceleration / power?

Replacing that part didn't help, but my question is, What was attached to that broken off bit??? I have just bought a Previa and the photo in that post looks exactly like mine. I am trying to work out if the unit needs replacing or not?

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Did it have timing belt? A tooth out will cause it to be sluggish.

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Did it have timing belt? A tooth out will cause it to be sluggish.

The engine on mine is SEEMINGLY OK, but the Toyota part no. (25819-27030) VSV is damaged as per image below. Two questions:

1) What is missing?

2) Does it matter?

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=8123

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Can you take another picture a bit further back so I can see what you are looking at. Its one of the air hoses and I think its the turbo pressure sensor but just need a better look.

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Thanks. I attach two photos of MY car. The previous image was a link to a a previously posted photo that looks the same.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lt75ije6owqrmh6/2012-08-22%2016.11.39.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6sodztag0jdyakk/2012-08-22%2016.11.43.jpg

You can see the VSV (I assume that's what it is) in context and up close. There is a hole in the top where something has broken off. Is this just an air inlet?

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Flippin 'ek that has had me scratching my head!

I've just clocked the Previa engine and couldn't work out why I didn't recognise the part.

Ok, I presume the intercooler is down at the front with the radiator. I can't just tell if there is another pipe connected to that underneath or if it only has one connector. I think I can see the VSV a little further back with the red silencer on it.

If it has one pipe only, it is the turbo pressure sensor. If there is another underneath it is the VRV which controls the EGR valve. There should be another pipe floating about with the broken bit in. The only other possibility is that the EGR is permanently bypassed. That won't effect the engine running. The turbo pressure sensor would stop it from running as well as it should.

Does the MIL light work or has somebody disconnected it?

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Hi All

I also have no power problem on D4d Previa. No real power until 4000rpm and then you can feel the turbo kick in.

Has new Garrett Turbo

Cleaned EGR

Measured SCV valves ohms (1.8 to 1.9)

Also Trying to establish what the Vacuum controller valve does as per JNW1243 post above.

As far as I can tell at the bottom of this valve there is connection from the vacuum generator and then connnection to the variable vane actuator of the turbo.

There is no pipe connected to the top of this gizmo. What is supposed to connect here?

What does this valve/actuator do?

Any help, photos, manuals etc would be much appreciated.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lt75ije6owqrmh6/2012-08-22%2016.11.39.jpg

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That is the vsv (vacuum suction valve). It controls the turbo and the pipe is broken off. There should be a rubber pipe attached.

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HI Anchorman, Thanks for the quick reply - where should the rubber pipe go to from the VSV?

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One side goes to the vac pump and the other goes to the vac unit on the turbo UNLESS it is the one for the EGR but I think yours is too late for that one. Where does the one pipe go?

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There are 3 connectors on the valve - one from the vac generator - one goes to the turbo unit for vane operation and the one that is shown broken off does not connect anywhere!. Where should the one thats broken off be connected. I have found a previous post relating to VSV but this is the valve that is under the turbo boost pressure sensor. This valve looks like it controls vacuum to the variable vane arrangement.

The EGR seems to be electrically actuated, there are no vacuum pipes on it.

Also where could I get a schematic of the whole vacuum layout?

Much appreciated

Thanks

Dont know if this is important but when accelerating, on the trip computer there is no increases in fuel flow until it hits 4000 rpm and then there is a surge along with a boost..not sure which comes first...maybe the problem is no fuel being delivered until 4000rpm?

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It might be where the exhaust goes but that valve is slightly different than the standard RAV valve. You might be better asking the Previa guys.

As for the surging, it is very SCV esq

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Hello all,

I am new to the site after searching for this error code that appeared on my rav4 whilst towing a caravan.

The engine management light comes on and it goes into limp mode, approx 3hrs after driving with caravan.

It has done this twice now,and only happens with caravan on, and whilst on a motorway.

It is so intermittent, because the car works fine all other times and even when i got to my destination driving up some steep hills in exmoor.

Toyota are saying new turbo, but i disagree as if its overboosting, the turbo clearly works!

Im going for the actuator and will check that out.

Just wanted to know if all the posters here had found a final cure?

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I would do the same.

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Just to let you know Alan that I experienced the same problem when
towing our caravan,


I to believe it is the VSV. Seems that they may be expensive,
quoted £294.27 + vat from my local Toyota dealer, I have PM'd
Parts-King for a price.. here's hoping..


:-)

Cheers

Ken

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Thanks. I attach two photos of MY car. The previous image was a link to a a previously posted photo that looks the same.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lt75ije6owqrmh6/2012-08-22%2016.11.39.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6sodztag0jdyakk/2012-08-22%2016.11.43.jpg

You can see the VSV (I assume that's what it is) in context and up close. There is a hole in the top where something has broken off. Is this just an air inlet?

Hi, I'm new to the site and have been reading all this thread, as i have a 2006 previa 2.0 d4d with the same problem everyone else on here seems to be suffering. The part you picture shows with the piece broken off does not have a pipe on the the broken part, just an air inlet, very similar to the one on the VSV with the rubber boot over it, it comes apart and there is a small fibre fliter inside it, I know this because I broke mine off when undoing the small bolt that holds the VSV in place, as the first thing your hand hits when the bolt comes loose is that plastic piece and it easily breaks off, I just made sure the pipe was clear and araldited mine back on. I have changed the SCV's. I got a reading of 2ohms on the old valves when removed and exactly the same reading on the new ones in situ, I have no continuity between the connectors and earth, I've cleaned the EGR, changed the air and fuel filters used contact cleaner on the MAF sensor, all with temporary results. It was while checking the VSV and associated sensors and pipes I broke the part off, but after disconnecting all these parts and blowing and sucking through the pipes and then running my engine with all these disconnected from the electrics (not the pipes) and obviously the EML came on, but soon as i revved the engine, even stationary I could tell the difference. So i took it for a run and could immediately tell the turbo was working when it had obviously not been working on acceleration before. no hesitation anymore. So I can only assume something is sticking on these sensors or a part connected to them, as sadly it has reverted back to lack of power and I can tell the turbo is doing nothing until the revs get above 3000. Can anyone suggest what part it maybe that is sticking or maybe blocked ? I bought the car with 93000 on it and so had nothing to compare the power it should have had, just thought it was under powered for a vehicle of this size, it has now done 107000 miles, the dealer told me it was a fuel pump problem from the codes that came up and that SCV replacement would only be a temporary fix, quoted me £1500 to replace the pump, but after reading this link and seeing some of the low mileage vehicles that were suffering the same problem i decided it was more likely to be a sensor than a turbo, fuel pump or injectors, and i still believe this to be the case as mine drove like a completely different car when i had tinkered with the sensors linked to the turbo. So i will let you know if I figure out which part made the big difference ! unless someone out there knows ! Thanks for all the help and information, it has saved me a fortune on garage bills.

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well what a way to pass an evening reading all the above!!!

my 2002 Rav4 D4d turbo finally gave up the fight yesterday. I remember posting on here a while back about turbo whine and became familiar with what goes on.

One thing that my problem has not done is run up the engine light and produce fault codes!!!

My turbo, apart from becoming noisier, started to weep Oil from its casing, to the point that the back area of the engine is now wet and black, and following a run to Dublin the other day I have Oil spots on the rear door and the tow hitch is also wet with Oil. I'm keeping the Oil level topped up don't worry.

Then yesterday I started her up from cold and whilst it will gently rev there is no turbo boost at all now. Will check the actuator for free play but suspect that either the variable vains are jammed or the main impeller is now so badly worn its jammed itself.

Now getting big puff of smoke(not black, rather grey blue) when starting and driving with very gentle acceleration but no turbo boost at all.

Its our only car so im really in a jam now, MTC turbo in Middleton cork are quoting e400 to regenerate the turbo, over two days, which doesn't sound too bad, and they specify no cheap Chinese ebay parts are used. Mine is a Garrett Turbo which I hear is the better type, but before I commit I just wanted to run this past our resident experts...

BTW since doing the waterpump in -1c last year (remember me) I had a thrust bearing failure with the clutch on holiday in Wexford. Luckily a mates garage in New Ross allowed me to work on her with his mechanic to drop the gearbox and transfer box as one unit and fit a new clutch assembly. I'm getting very intimate with our Betty these days!!!

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SOLVED.

Hi all. thought I would return with an update.

finally won with the problem of no power, eml light and limp home mode. It was the injectors.

I changed turbo, MAF, SCV and cleaned egr all with no perceptible change.

I had injectors checked and found bad atomisation at low pressure.

changed injectors and now at 124k she is running sweet.

thanks to all on the forum for their invaluable help.

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I've got the same issue, my cynical head says this is why the previous owner outed it. Anyway, after spending my car time this weekend replacing the middle and rear sections of the exhaust, it goes in for timing belt and water pump change this week. Last done in 2004! At 70k miles, 147k now.

I have the hesitation on acceleration, then the random loads of power, EML all as described elsewhere here. The garage doing the timing belt will check the codes me advise. I will await the results with interest. I bought the car from a trader with a 6 month after market warranty, anyone got experience of these?

I'm intrigued by the finding of an injector fault as prior to finding the forum, my initial gut feeling was a fuel starvation issue.

Thanks to everybody for all of the info on here too.

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I've got the same issue, my cynical head says this is why the previous owner outed it. Anyway, after spending my car time this weekend replacing the middle and rear sections of the exhaust, it goes in for timing belt and water pump change this week. Last done in 2004! At 70k miles, 147k now.

I have the hesitation on acceleration, then the random loads of power, EML all as described elsewhere here. The garage doing the timing belt will check the codes me advise. I will await the results with interest. I bought the car from a trader with a 6 month after market warranty, anyone got experience of these?

I'm intrigued by the finding of an injector fault as prior to finding the forum, my initial gut feeling was a fuel starvation issue.

Thanks to everybody for all of the info on here too.

keep us up to date on what they find, iam trying to make an informed decision about my 4.2. Tks

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Will do. All I can say is that since changing the fuel filter (hadn't been changed since God was a lad) I haven't ground to a halt. There is still a massive 'flat spot' when trying to accelerate when the revs are borderline, i.e. 50mph in 5th, then toeing it, it hesitates massively, then I normally drop a cog and the increased revs seems to make it better.

I was intrigued by the comment earlier in this thread about the fuel computer hovering on 50 mpg, I'm delighted with mine now hovering around 43.5. It went up from 39.5 ish once I changed the filthy fuel filter. Compared to the 3.0 Surf, at 20 ish, it's fantastic.

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tks paul, all follow ups can help others

mine is hiccupping above 2300 rpm in all gears, not consistantly though.

once its up to speed its fine no hiccups.......thinking scv in this case. but jury still out.

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They didn't give me the codes but it's come up with a turbo fault and MAF fault. The mechanic picked the car up this morning and said that he felt it was the turbo not boosting as he drove it to work.

That said, they replaced the timing belt kit and drive belts today and it drives loads better. I took it for a 10 mile run and it didn't do it's no boost/hesitation thing. I'm off to Cambridge tomorrow so will see how it runs.

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