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Giving Biodiesel A Go - 2.0 D4d 54 Reg


BarnyB
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Car: Avensis 2004 '54' 2.0D4D T3-X Hatchback

Well I've finally decided to give Biod a go after paying 117.9. That's just ridiculous I'm paying over £60 a week and it's not a company car so no benefits that side.

The biod station is local to me and co-owned by a friend, they sell the EN14214 standard. I've put in a £10 worth at 89.9p a litre and was advised I may have to change my fuel filter after approx. 800 miles. As long as that 10 is fine i will then inc. to 20 and eventually run 50-50 until confident enough to use 100. I'll keep this post updated with any issues/non-issues (hopefully!). So far just a whiff of the Chippy on the outside :rolleyes:

Would you recommend using Genuine Toyota filters at £28 each or will an aftermarket one at £10 do? How easy is it to replace (given that my experience with car engines is limited to topping up oil)? My car's no longer in warranty so that's not an issue.

I did ring my local dealer just to ask what they advised re: biod and the lady was just 'No, no, no!' I asked why and she said it's too experimental at the mo. But then, they would say that.

if anyone wants info on the biod dealer I used, PM me, I don't want to advertise in posts unless that's encouraged. They are based in Greater Manchester.

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Car: Avensis 2004 '54' 2.0D4D T3-X Hatchback

Well I've finally decided to give Biod a go after paying 117.9. That's just ridiculous I'm paying over £60 a week and it's not a company car so no benefits that side.

The biod station is local to me and co-owned by a friend, they sell the EN14214 standard. I've put in a £10 worth at 89.9p a litre and was advised I may have to change my fuel filter after approx. 800 miles. As long as that 10 is fine i will then inc. to 20 and eventually run 50-50 until confident enough to use 100. I'll keep this post updated with any issues/non-issues (hopefully!). So far just a whiff of the Chippy on the outside :rolleyes:

Would you recommend using Genuine Toyota filters at £28 each or will an aftermarket one at £10 do? How easy is it to replace (given that my experience with car engines is limited to topping up oil)? My car's no longer in warranty so that's not an issue.

I did ring my local dealer just to ask what they advised re: biod and the lady was just 'No, no, no!' I asked why and she said it's too experimental at the mo. But then, they would say that.

if anyone wants info on the biod dealer I used, PM me, I don't want to advertise in posts unless that's encouraged. They are based in Greater Manchester.

117.9? thats cheap where i am. i filled up yesterday at 131.9. :(

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I did ring my local dealer just to ask what they advised re: biod and the lady was just 'No, no, no!' I asked why and she said it's too experimental at the mo. But then, they would say that.

Nothing to do with being experimental, its to do with the physics of the thing.

D4D Diesel engines use a very high pressure pump (along with most other manufacturers) These pumps are made to very very fine tolerences. The lubrication quality of chip fat is no good in a high pressure pump and you may suffer a pump/injector failure in the future, if you do, they are VERY expensive to replace, you have been warned :eek: We can do you genuine filters at better prices

Kingo :thumbsup:

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Having used bio in an old toyota diesel it was fine as it was low compression, but new diesels i would not recommend due to being high compression, and is your injectors do suffer its about a 1000 pound to replace ish!!

Alot of people who do use it also put an inline filter in before the fuel filter, (the cheap paper ones in a clear tube sort, few pounds each).

Let us know how you get on!!!

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I did ring my local dealer just to ask what they advised re: biod and the lady was just 'No, no, no!' I asked why and she said it's too experimental at the mo. But then, they would say that.

Nothing to do with being experimental, its to do with the physics of the thing.

D4D Diesel engines use a very high pressure pump (along with most other manufacturers) These pumps are made to very very fine tolerences. The lubrication quality of chip fat is no good in a high pressure pump and you may suffer a pump/injector failure in the future, if you do, they are VERY expensive to replace, you have been warned :eek: We can do you genuine filters at better prices

Kingo :thumbsup:

I see what you're saying but having read extensively on the net I've read that newer cars are running just fine and that allegedly some car manufacturers in Germany already approve the use of biod providing it's at the EN standards I'm using. I'm not just putting in straight up chip fat! As for real user experience, many Taxi drivers are using this in their Avensis models of the same year and particularly 53 plates, along with a number of Audi owners (inc. my friend) so I'm pretty confident with using the stuff. Have done 80 miles today not felt anything wrong.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I did ring my local dealer just to ask what they advised re: biod and the lady was just 'No, no, no!' I asked why and she said it's too experimental at the mo. But then, they would say that.

Nothing to do with being experimental, its to do with the physics of the thing.

D4D Diesel engines use a very high pressure pump (along with most other manufacturers) These pumps are made to very very fine tolerences. The lubrication quality of chip fat is no good in a high pressure pump and you may suffer a pump/injector failure in the future, if you do, they are VERY expensive to replace, you have been warned :eek: We can do you genuine filters at better prices

Kingo :thumbsup:

I see what you're saying but having read extensively on the net I've read that newer cars are running just fine and that allegedly some car manufacturers in Germany already approve the use of biod providing it's at the EN standards I'm using. I'm not just putting in straight up chip fat! As for real user experience, many Taxi drivers are using this in their Avensis models of the same year and particularly 53 plates, along with a number of Audi owners (inc. my friend) so I'm pretty confident with using the stuff. Have done 80 miles today not felt anything wrong.

Well, it's coming up to the month mark, I started off with a 10'er one week, then £20 the next, £30 next and today put in £40 which gave 40 litres. The car has been running fine, no probs, no smells (the first time I got the whiff was prob because I left my windows open when filling up). What I have experienced so far is saving a 10'er a week and a quieter engine! I still put in some diesel although now that diesel is costing 125.9 a litre round my parts I am seriously thinking why not go full? Although price is a gripe with biod to an extent also as the first week i put it in it was 87.9 and today it was 99.9! The guy at the pump said it was due to inc. costs on their side, they have been v successful and have run out of supplies for a few days over the last 2 weeks. I've done approx. 2,000 miles so far, I have a spare air filter (£6.93, ADL Blueprint) just in case but I doubt I will have to use it before the 50k service when it will get changed anyway. B)

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Air filter? Is that likely to be an issue? I thought it was the fuel filter that is supposed to be prone to clogging with this stuff.

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Air filter? Is that likely to be an issue? I thought it was the fuel filter that is supposed to be prone to clogging with this stuff.

:lol: I'm a spoon, I did mean fuel filter, sorry.

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Be interesting to see what percentages you use in the winter, doesn't biod not work so well when cold?

Mind you we could all buy cars made for the South American market where they have been running off sugar beet products for years.

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Do you still get the same MPG on this stuff?

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are we not confusing two different fuels here slightly...

biodiesel : is diesel made from crops (rape seed etc...) and put through a fairly rigorous process to make bidiesel that is compliant with standard EN 14214

veg oil: is output from chipper which needs a heater, pump etc changed on the car....

According to wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biodiesel), biodiesel has better lubrication properties than sandard diesel....

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are we not confusing two different fuels here slightly...

biodiesel : is diesel made from crops (rape seed etc...) and put through a fairly rigorous process to make bidiesel that is compliant with standard EN 14214

veg oil: is output from chipper which needs a heater, pump etc changed on the car....

According to wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biodiesel), biodiesel has better lubrication properties than sandard diesel....

I've never liked Wikipedia personally although it may be correct in this case.

The bio that I am buying, I am informed by the dealer, is produced using used veg oil put through whatever machinery is required to filter out fatty acids etc. to make it to the EN 14214 standard. No engine mods are required and yes it is supposed to have better lubrication properties.

On a side note, the cost of the used veg oil is becoming v high at the mo, rapeseed prices are prohibitive so that this dealer will not purchase it and the govt is taxing them spprox. 45p a litre, all in all it's making even biod cost a lot (as I said currently 99.9) but still not standard diesel prices. Exactly HOW are we supposed to win Mr PM?! I'm trying to be green but you're killing me here! Rant over.

MPG wise, if I was honest they are v similar to before, I get around 48-50 mway, 44-46 roads

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  • 3 weeks later...
:lol: I'm a spoon,

I can testify to that!

Belated welcome to the forums my friend. :thumbsup:

Lol, get out of it you with your 'Project Gotham' Twin Cam!

Anyway, just an update to say this Sat I had my fuel filter changed (after approx. 3,000 miles), the car wasn't starting straight away, would cough for a while then kick in, then be fine for the rest of the day but any rest of a few hours i.e after a work day or overnight, it would happen again. Had been happening for a couple of weeks. Got the filter changed (Blue Print part £6.93) at the local garage and all good. Starts fine now. The garage worker said the filter wouldn't need changing now, once is all that's needed for bio he didn't think there were any probs with using it.

Otherwise, all running fine, no probs at all. Running full tanks now.

Price at mo 106.9...going up but still staying 22-25p cheaper than standard diesel from other stations in the area.

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:lol: I'm a spoon,

I can testify to that!

Belated welcome to the forums my friend. :thumbsup:

Lol, get out of it you with your 'Project Gotham' Twin Cam!

Anyway, just an update to say this Sat I had my fuel filter changed (after approx. 3,000 miles), the car wasn't starting straight away, would cough for a while then kick in, then be fine for the rest of the day but any rest of a few hours i.e after a work day or overnight, it would happen again. Had been happening for a couple of weeks. Got the filter changed (Blue Print part £6.93) at the local garage and all good. Starts fine now. The garage worker said the filter wouldn't need changing now, once is all that's needed for bio he didn't think there were any probs with using it.

Otherwise, all running fine, no probs at all. Running full tanks now.

Price at mo 106.9...going up but still staying 22-25p cheaper than standard diesel from other stations in the area.

Thanks barneyb.Top post well done.Starting to give me the courage to go 100% biodiesel.3000 miles and one filter change sounds good to me.£6.93 for a fuel filter sounds good too.I am in the trade and the last aftermarket one I got for a customers car was about £12.00 so please let me know where you got your adl one from.

ADL stuff by the way for anyone who does not know is top quality kit supplied to many major japanese manufacturers and as a user I highly reccomend it.

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Hi

I have a new auris 57 plate and I have been using Biodiesel for the last 2 months. Fisrt a £10, then £30 and this week £44 worth at 94.5 pence per liter. No problem to date, running smoothly and no loss of power. At today's prices I will keep on using it.

Has anyone else used Bio with new cars?

:lol: I'm a spoon,

I can testify to that!

Belated welcome to the forums my friend. :thumbsup:

Lol, get out of it you with your 'Project Gotham' Twin Cam!

Anyway, just an update to say this Sat I had my fuel filter changed (after approx. 3,000 miles), the car wasn't starting straight away, would cough for a while then kick in, then be fine for the rest of the day but any rest of a few hours i.e after a work day or overnight, it would happen again. Had been happening for a couple of weeks. Got the filter changed (Blue Print part £6.93) at the local garage and all good. Starts fine now. The garage worker said the filter wouldn't need changing now, once is all that's needed for bio he didn't think there were any probs with using it.

Otherwise, all running fine, no probs at all. Running full tanks now.

Price at mo 106.9...going up but still staying 22-25p cheaper than standard diesel from other stations in the area.

Thanks barneyb.Top post well done.Starting to give me the courage to go 100% biodiesel.3000 miles and one filter change sounds good to me.£6.93 for a fuel filter sounds good too.I am in the trade and the last aftermarket one I got for a customers car was about £12.00 so please let me know where you got your adl one from.

ADL stuff by the way for anyone who does not know is top quality kit supplied to many major japanese manufacturers and as a user I highly reccomend it.

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No have not taken the plunge yet.How many miles have you done on bio?

HI

I believe approximately 1000 miles, both within urban traffic and in motorways. When I am filling up at the biodiesel station I se all sorts of makes of cars filling up too. These are not just old cars. Why are the German manufacturer Ok with warranties and Toyota not? Most of the oarts of the engine are manufactured by the same suppliers.

I will keep on mixing Bio for the moment.

:D

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No have not taken the plunge yet.How many miles have you done on bio?

HI

I believe approximately 1000 miles, both within urban traffic and in motorways. When I am filling up at the biodiesel station I se all sorts of makes of cars filling up too. These are not just old cars. Why are the German manufacturer Ok with warranties and Toyota not? Most of the oarts of the engine are manufactured by the same suppliers.

I will keep on mixing Bio for the moment.

:D

A point I made recently myself.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been using biodiesel made from used cooking oil,

1st tank half bio half diesel

2nd tank half bio half diesel

3rd half bio no diesel and car dies under power(engine warning light came on), so i fill the other half with diesel

next morning engine light is off and car dies half way through the day

I buy a cheap fuel filter and change it my self (old one did have plent sludge that biodiesel removes from the tank), car runs great, next tank will be only 100% bio, I would recomend bio BUT keep a spare fuel filter with you just incase you have to call the aa or rac.

A few tips,

1. Fuel filter is a metel can type near the air box in my car, above it is a little black button (primer) which you will have to pump until very stiff before car will start after a filter change to pump fuel into the system, if car still does not start get some one to repeated;y pump is as you try to start the car and it should fire into life

2. If car dies on you its probably a blocked fuel filter and dont panic, leave it off for a few minuites and then it should start, drive it gently to home or garage and change the filter

3. if it dies in dodgy place, put it in 2nd gear with the clutch up and hold it on start to move the car into a safe place, aviod doing this too long other wise you will kill your Battery or starter motor.

my car: 2006 corolla 1.4 d4d 90bhp 57k miles

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forgot to mention, the engine light fixed its self and went off (thanks toyota) and the car runs great since i changed the fuel filter, even under full power(today)

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  • 1 month later...
I have been using biodiesel made from used cooking oil,

1st tank half bio half diesel

2nd tank half bio half diesel

3rd half bio no diesel and car dies under power(engine warning light came on), so i fill the other half with diesel

next morning engine light is off and car dies half way through the day

I buy a cheap fuel filter and change it my self (old one did have plent sludge that biodiesel removes from the tank), car runs great, next tank will be only 100% bio, I would recomend bio BUT keep a spare fuel filter with you just incase you have to call the aa or rac.

A few tips,

1. Fuel filter is a metel can type near the air box in my car, above it is a little black button (primer) which you will have to pump until very stiff before car will start after a filter change to pump fuel into the system, if car still does not start get some one to repeated;y pump is as you try to start the car and it should fire into life

2. If car dies on you its probably a blocked fuel filter and dont panic, leave it off for a few minuites and then it should start, drive it gently to home or garage and change the filter

3. if it dies in dodgy place, put it in 2nd gear with the clutch up and hold it on start to move the car into a safe place, aviod doing this too long other wise you will kill your battery or starter motor.

my car: 2006 corolla 1.4 d4d 90bhp 57k miles

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I've been using 100% bio for last 20k (ish) in a 54 plate Avensis D4D that has now done 82k.

Result: injectors 1-3 need replacing Toyota quote £1,189

Is this due to using bio (commercially produced re-cycled cooking oils)? I don't know, but I saved £100 in using the bio and have a repair bill of £1,189!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey All,

Well unfortunately I have been unable to source any bio for the last 6-7 weeks! My friend's place are having supply issues relating to both sourcing it and then the cost of oil. In fact, last week he told me they may stop altogether because of both the financial costs and time costs (they have had to pick up the oil themselves because they can't get deliveries).

Anyway, I have found 1 way of getting 50mpg both around town and over 50 on the mway...get caught speeding twice in the space of 5 days! Damn mobile units! First was 38mph in 30 zone (I saw the van but too late), for that I was given the option of attending a speed awareness course in Oct for £80 and no points then 5 days later I was caught (no idea where this guy was hiding, must have been in the bushes!) doing 37mph in a 30mph zone so am having to take the £60 and 3 points and no doubt a price hike in insurance which was just renewed! Sigh. Now I'm doing strictly speed limits, 30mph zones stick to 3rd and don't pump too hard...got 550 out of my last 2 tanks.

120.9 to fill up last night, £64 for 54 litres.

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