1.4 D4d Oil Change - Magnatec 10w40 Ok?

[MadVlad]

Hi,

I've checked the handbook and it looks like Magnatec diesel 10W40 is ok for the 1.4 D4D - I'm not really comfortable using 5W30 non-diesel as the second recommendation on the Castrol site (first recommendation is Edge Turbodiesel 0W30) - can anyone think of any reason why I shouldn't use Magnatec diesel 10W40 over the summer months?

Thanks.

[Geriatric]

5w-30 is the recommended grade and in Portugal BP Visco 5000 diesel ACEA B1, APN CF-4

However 10W-30, 15w-40, and 20w-50 can also be OK depending on ambient temperatures. Your Magantec should be fine.

[Parts-King]

5/30 OR 10/40 semi-synthetic will be fine

Kingo

[ae102]

Hi,

I've checked the handbook and it looks like Magnatec diesel 10W40 is ok for the 1.4 D4D - I'm not really comfortable using 5W30 non-diesel as the second recommendation on the Castrol site (first recommendation is Edge Turbodiesel 0W30) - can anyone think of any reason why I shouldn't use Magnatec diesel 10W40 over the summer months?

Thanks.

i bought Mobil 1 oil for diesels once by mistake. when i realised i rang the customer services who put me onto the tech department.the fella said the oil is the same they just put diesel on the can as a marketing tool. go for full synthetic as it offers far superior protection.

[MadVlad]

The 5W30 is fully synth and is on special offer in my local Halfords so defintely worth a go - I suspect that the bulk oil that my Toyota dealer has been using might not be anything fancy and is probably used on both petrol and diesel models...

[Parts-King]

IMHO there is far too much hype about fully synthetic oil, yes it is better, but in a 1.4 diesel is it really worth the extra cost? NO is the answer to that. The marketing people have us all on the hook wanting to buy into the latest spec oils and how you car will benefit, yes it is good, yes it does what it says on the tin, but at nearly twice the price and changed every 10K, I don't think it is worth the extra. If you had a racing car and used it on the track, fine, but a trip to work/shops/auntie Joans on a Sunday.........Not worth it IMHO, stick to a good brand, semi synthetic and change it as per the service schedule

Kingo

[ae102]

The 5W30 is fully synth and is on special offer in my local Halfords so defintely worth a go - I suspect that the bulk oil that my Toyota dealer has been using might not be anything fancy and is probably used on both petrol and diesel models...

i always use valvoline syn power, 0w-40 - in all my cars. i always use my local motor factors who supply the local garages, i've found i get a better product for less money than Halfords.

[MadVlad]

IMHO there is far too much hype about fully synthetic oil, yes it is better, but in a 1.4 diesel is it really worth the extra cost? NO is the answer to that. The marketing people have us all on the hook wanting to buy into the latest spec oils and how you car will benefit, yes it is good, yes it does what it says on the tin, but at nearly twice the price and changed every 10K, I don't think it is worth the extra. If you had a racing car and used it on the track, fine, but a trip to work/shops/auntie Joans on a Sunday.........Not worth it IMHO, stick to a good brand, semi synthetic and change it as per the service schedule

Kingo

I agree - especially in the Toyota context with shorter service intervals - Halfords have the fully synthetic Castrol on special at the moment so it's worth my while this time. My wife's Peugeot 207 HDi has 20K mile service intervals so synthetic is well worth the extra cost in that case (probably a must).

[Geriatric]

If doing the change , this might help.

Changing the oil and filter on a 1.4D4D.

Oil filters with a flat seal need to be tightened by hand pressure only.

The Toyota replacement filter 90915YZZJ3 has a rounded seal and requires to be tightened 3/4 of a turn after !Removed! the filter in to touch the engine. It is not possible to tighten this far by hand and a tool is required to grip the filter from below.The normal chain or strap filter, for a side mounted filter, is of no use due to the limited access and I consider a tool to grip the oil filter from below essential. Toyota sell a tool as part number SST 09228-06501 but similar tools can be obtained elsewhere.

Changing the oil and filter can be accomplished with the car on the ground without removing the plastic under panel . The receptacle for the oil has to have a height of only about 80mm in order to have sufficient clearance to remove the drain plug using a 14mm spanner through the hole in the plastic under panel. I used a 10 litre round plastic paint container cut down to 80mm and fitted a small plastic tap near the bottome in order to facilitate emptying.

There are two flaps that have to be opened,10mm screws, in the plastic under panel in order to remove the oil filter . One assists visibility while one is for access to the the filter. I repeat a removing/ tightening tool is essential.

Make sure all surfaces for drain plug and filter are clean. The drain plug should be refitted with a new seal and torqued to 27ft.lbs. The oil filter should be filled with the new oil making sure that the seal is also oiled. It should then be fitted by hand and tightened 3/4 of a turn. After filling with appropriate oil to recommended level run the engine, check for leaks and secure the plastic flaps on the under panel. A 4litre can of oil takes the level to the top mark on the dipstick

[MadVlad]

If doing the change , this might help.

Changing the oil and filter on a 1.4D4D.

Oil filters with a flat seal need to be tightened by hand pressure only.

The Toyota replacement filter 90915YZZJ3 has a rounded seal and requires to be tightened 3/4 of a turn after !Removed! the filter in to touch the engine. It is not possible to tighten this far by hand and a tool is required to grip the filter from below.The normal chain or strap filter, for a side mounted filter, is of no use due to the limited access and I consider a tool to grip the oil filter from below essential. Toyota sell a tool as part number SST 09228-06501 but similar tools can be obtained elsewhere.

Changing the oil and filter can be accomplished with the car on the ground without removing the plastic under panel . The receptacle for the oil has to have a height of only about 80mm in order to have sufficient clearance to remove the drain plug using a 14mm spanner through the hole in the plastic under panel. I used a 10 litre round plastic paint container cut down to 80mm and fitted a small plastic tap near the bottome in order to facilitate emptying.

There are two flaps that have to be opened,10mm screws, in the plastic under panel in order to remove the oil filter . One assists visibility while one is for access to the the filter. I repeat a removing/ tightening tool is essential.

Make sure all surfaces for drain plug and filter are clean. The drain plug should be refitted with a new seal and torqued to 27ft.lbs. The oil filter should be filled with the new oil making sure that the seal is also oiled. It should then be fitted by hand and tightened 3/4 of a turn. After filling with appropriate oil to recommended level run the engine, check for leaks and secure the plastic flaps on the under panel. A 4litre can of oil takes the level to the top mark on the dipstick

Thanks for the advice - sounds like the voice of experience! I'll give it a go next weekend.

[ffzetecs]

Hi all, I take it from the above that any fully synth 5/30 is fine? This is for top-ups rather than full service... Mine is non-DPF 1.4D4D but seen so many versions its hard to gauge!

[Cyker]

As long as the oil meets all the ACEA / API / WTF specs that the manual states then yeah, should be fine. Whether it's Fully Synth or not isn't so relevant. (There are probably Fully Synth oils which aren't rated for that engine floating around for instance)

Edit: Woo! Extreme Zombie Thread! 
 

[oldcodger]

7 hours ago, ffzetecs said:

Hi all, I take it from the above that any fully synth 5/30 is fine? This is for top-ups rather than full service... Mine is non-DPF 1.4D4D but seen so many versions its hard to gauge!

Hmmm,  why use one oil for top up and one full service ?

Not in to the make up of oils, but generally it best to stick to the same brand, how do you know if something might not mix ok ?

Magnatec is as god as any, though pricey unless you can find it on offer as somethings happens at Asda or Tesco etc,

Also Toyota oil, Shell, Mobil, Comma all do 5w/30, like most things you get what you pay for .

[oldcodger]

Just to add on the the above, assuming the car is new to you, unless you have a clear indication of a recent oil change,  then I would always do a full oi and filter change, just to be sure,

Same with the other filters like air, pollen and any others that the diesels may have.

Don't  forget the gearbox oil and the brake fluid also need changing  every year or so.

Your Toyota handbook should specify when, if not available then the Haynes Service book (halfords)  tells you when and shows how to do it.

[ffzetecs]

16 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Hmmm,  why use one oil for top up and one full service ?

Not in to the make up of oils, but generally it best to stick to the same brand, how do you know if something might not mix ok ?

Magnatec is as god as any, though pricey unless you can find it on offer as somethings happens at Asda or Tesco etc,

Also Toyota oil, Shell, Mobil, Comma all do 5w/30, like most things you get what you pay for .

Hi - to explain, I get the car serviced annually, I'm looking to ensure I buy the right kind of oil for top-ups during the year. I usually use EuroCarParts for basic consumables but there are multiple oil variations (of 5W30) that come up and want to ensure I get the right one

[oldcodger]

34 minutes ago, ffzetecs said:

Hi - to explain, I get the car serviced annually, I'm looking to ensure I buy the right kind of oil for top-ups during the year. I usually use EuroCarParts for basic consumables but there are multiple oil variations (of 5W30) that come up and want to ensure I get the right one

Right, so its an existing car that you have serviced by a garage, just a simple call to the garage and ask them which brand they used , if not already detailed on their invoice.  Expect they will also do small bottles of that oil , which they will probably use in bulk.

Also check with them what type they used, though 5w/30 is normal, they might have used 10w/40, again fully synthetic is normal but semi synthetic is also around, so do check.

[CrossMKD]

I have Toyota Auris 2008 2.0 D4D with around 200.000-250.000km 

What oil should i use ?

[FROSTYBALLS]

The Toyota recommendation is 5W-30 - see 

 

[CrossMKD]

Just now, FROSTYBALLS said:

The Toyota recommendation is 5W-30 - see 

 

I used 5w-40 and i drove 4000miles and on the metal oil bar in the engine the indicator was bellow middle. Under the hood it DOES NOT leak oil....so because my car is high mileage car they recommend me to use 10w-40 for less loss of it ??

[FROSTYBALLS]

Who is 'they'?

[TonyHSD]

Simple answer to all questions about oil type and viscosity is that if we talk about a car made after 2001 oils 10w40 should not be used even though the car is 500k miles. Semi synthetic or mineral oils with viscosity 10w40 will not prevent oil consumption but can cause more wear to the engine components. There are many synthetic oils of any grades that are not that expensive but 10w40 really is last century oil for cars like Golf mk2-3, Escort, Astra etc, old Corollas. Just stick with what type manufacturers recommend as primary oil not as what eventuality can be filled. Change as Per recommended intervals, can do earlier but never later and from time to time you can use some engine flush to keep the engine clean, and quality filters, that’s all. 
Regards