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tamas
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my celica gt overheats at high revs or long distances my heaters are working fine

changed my thermostat today still same problem

i noticed there are two pipes coming from radiator the top one is hot and the other is cold

any body any ideas wats wrong

its a 1993 2.0 16v twin cam

please help

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If you have changed your thermostat are you loosing water, were you before?

did you do anything to the water system before it started if so it could be an air lock

if you are losing water it could be the cylinder head or the water pump, or a cylinder head gasket.

is the car making any noises to point to the water pump?

check for leeks and loss of water, if you find anything deal with that

assuming you are not loosing water start with checking the electric fan, if you let it tick over does the fan come on before it overheats. If not thats your problem, check the fan is getting power or check the wire to the temp sensor.

If the fan is working your not loosing water and the engine is running fine you are ruling out the cyl head or cyl head gasket, in that case look to the water pump. If you changing the water pump you are as well as changing the timing belt. Unless you have just had the belt done. If you have just had the belt done that could be the cause of the pump going

Dont let the car overheat as this could cause problems with your cylinder head.

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If you have changed your thermostat are you loosing water, were you before?

did you do anything to the water system before it started if so it could be an air lock

if you are losing water it could be the cylinder head or the water pump, or a cylinder head gasket.

is the car making any noises to point to the water pump?

check for leeks and loss of water, if you find anything deal with that

assuming you are not loosing water start with checking the electric fan, if you let it tick over does the fan come on before it overheats. If not thats your problem, check the fan is getting power or check the wire to the temp sensor.

If the fan is working your not loosing water and the engine is running fine you are ruling out the cyl head or cyl head gasket, in that case look to the water pump. If you changing the water pump you are as well as changing the timing belt. Unless you have just had the belt done. If you have just had the belt done that could be the cause of the pump going

Dont let the car overheat as this could cause problems with your cylinder head.

thanks for that

the car will sit and run no probs without overheating the fans come in before temp goes up not losing water either

just bought the car the belt was replaced 2 months ago

how can i tell if its the waterpump cant hear anything

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Right then,

As T sport suggests it could be a simple block or air lock. Did you flush the system when you did the thermostat? If not then its worth trying that. Take a couple of hoses off and then use a hose to flush the system, run water through the engine and radiator until it is clear. Examine the condition of the radiator, look for problems. See if that as any effect.

You can get a water system checked for pressure, some garages have them and some refrigeration engineers. This will check to see if you water system is holding pressure. Its probably easier to get the engine compression tested for a cyl head issue but you say it is running fine.

When a timing belt gets changed on an older car the change in tension on the water pump can cause the water pump to give. Often, but not always it is the bearing that goes first and can usually be heard, Listen for noise at the timing belt end of the engine, the pump is under the timing bet on the top half of the block. If it's the seal then you get a trickle but that would not cause an overheat.

Your looking for a system leek, you are ruling that out so you need to look at the fan, temp sensor, thermostat etc, they are working so its looking like circulation.

If not circulating it would overheat very fast so if probably not circulating fast enough which is the water pump, or a blockage or air lock. No real test for the water pump other than listening to the engine, ensuring that as the thermostat works is the water circulating? Look in the radiator with the cap off, is the water circulating with the engine running and heater warm? you mentioned the water pipes one hot and cold earlier, that means you got circulation, just dont know if you got enough?

If it was me I would try a good flush, you can even buy something like rad-clear to flush a system out. If I was happy I had no leeks and the system was flushed, and the head gasket was ok I would look to the water pump. That job is easier than taking the cyl head off a twin cam. If you are confident the belt is new, ok but I would do the belt, only using one form Mr T (but thats just me) and a water pump from a cheaper supplier and do them. If that would not fix it then its looking at the cyl head

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Right then,

As T sport suggests it could be a simple block or air lock. Did you flush the system when you did the thermostat? If not then its worth trying that. Take a couple of hoses off and then use a hose to flush the system, run water through the engine and radiator until it is clear. Examine the condition of the radiator, look for problems. See if that as any effect.

You can get a water system checked for pressure, some garages have them and some refrigeration engineers. This will check to see if you water system is holding pressure. Its probably easier to get the engine compression tested for a cyl head issue but you say it is running fine.

When a timing belt gets changed on an older car the change in tension on the water pump can cause the water pump to give. Often, but not always it is the bearing that goes first and can usually be heard, Listen for noise at the timing belt end of the engine, the pump is under the timing bet on the top half of the block. If it's the seal then you get a trickle but that would not cause an overheat.

Your looking for a system leek, you are ruling that out so you need to look at the fan, temp sensor, thermostat etc, they are working so its looking like circulation.

If not circulating it would overheat very fast so if probably not circulating fast enough which is the water pump, or a blockage or air lock. No real test for the water pump other than listening to the engine, ensuring that as the thermostat works is the water circulating? Look in the radiator with the cap off, is the water circulating with the engine running and heater warm? you mentioned the water pipes one hot and cold earlier, that means you got circulation, just dont know if you got enough?

If it was me I would try a good flush, you can even buy something like rad-clear to flush a system out. If I was happy I had no leeks and the system was flushed, and the head gasket was ok I would look to the water pump. That job is easier than taking the cyl head off a twin cam. If you are confident the belt is new, ok but I would do the belt, only using one form Mr T (but thats just me) and a water pump from a cheaper supplier and do them. If that would not fix it then its looking at the cyl head

i had it running today with the water cap of

the heaters were hot when i tried

only small splashes of water were coming out the water cap

if the pump was working would it not blast it out

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If you removed the cap when you started the engine and ran it it would be fine, the water would circulate and the pressure would not build up. It would not normally splash out.

If the engine had been running for quite a while and then you then removed the cap you would release the pressure built up in the water system, this would bubble a bit when you got the cap off, but would not be gushing unless the water was boiling ie the engine was over heating. You should not do this, certainly not with bare hands.

Try the flush first, might be better to remove the thermostat again and give the system a good flush, and the radiator, and see whats next.

When you were looking at it today, was the water circulating? It sounds as though it was indicating your pump is pumping.

Are you sure you got the correct temperature thermostat to match the car. They vary from like 82 deg to 96deg, the numbers might not be right but they do vary. Check yours, you could even try a lower opening tempreture, this helps, but then you are treating a symptom not a problem. If in doubt take the thermostat to a local motor factor, they will probably tell you what the opening temp of the one specified is, and if they can match you with a lower opening one. If its a 92, try to see if you can get an 88. Changing this will have an effect on the operating temp of the engine obviously, but unless your racing its not likely to make that much difference and its better than overheating!

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