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AE92 GTi-16 Progress Thread


KPARRIS-JONES
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I have received my order of bolts + nuts and chrome hose covers etc.

I actually got them all last week but didn't post, was too busy. :D

Everything fits well, apart from the odd little bits and peices but its all solvable.

The chrome hose-cover is instead of Samcos because it would cost £££'s for something that is mainly for show. I got 4 metres of the stuff and new stainless steel clips to replace all old hose clips that i dont need anymore. I will be getting Samcos for the radiator, but nothing else.

I also painted the radiator fan red with hamerite which looks alright as long as you don't look too closely! :lol:

The gear linkages are now disconnected with a few other bits to go;

Clutch and brakes need to be drained and the clutch pipes disconnected that get in the way of the engines removal, and the power-steering needs to be drained and disconnected along with the fuel-line.

Once all that has been done, I will flat-bed the car to a garage, get the engine lowered out, gear-box disconnected and the each part taken back and put onto the workbench reaady for the overhaul! :)

Basically, everything is coming together now, and while I wait for the garages go-ahead, I'll focus my energies upon the body-work and hiding wires inside.

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The interior has come together well....your car will be really nice once its finished mate..keep at it !!

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The interior has come together well....your car will be really nice once its finished mate..keep at it !!

Cheers.

I'm guessing that I'll need another few months to get the interior rust sorted (It's on the rear struts) and the panel behind the sideskirts is really rusted where water got trappped. Will require lots of cutting, plating and filling! :crybaby:

I'll be getting the car resprayed once the engines out so I can get the bay done nicely too.

Does anyone have any idea about how long it will take for the engine overhaul to be completed? This is assuming that I have all the right tools and parts needed to rebuild it.

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UPDATE:

I soon gave up on the idea of an engine overhaul because it was uneccesary and would cost an awful lot. I did however continue to replace the head-gaskt and clutch etc. There is very little that I haven't touched on this engine...

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depends if your having it rebored. if you are then engineer time aside you should be able to build the engine up ready for fitting in a weekend. juat take your time. to save buying expensive tools that you may only need once, ask the engineer to build it up as a short block for you (block with pistons, rods and crank installed) this cuts out a lot of the larger problems and only leaves the head, sump and ancilliarys to be bolted on

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depends if your having it rebored. if you are then engineer time aside you should be able to build the engine up ready for fitting in a weekend. juat take your time. to save buying expensive tools that you may only need once, ask the engineer to build it up as a short block for you (block with pistons, rods and crank installed) this cuts out a lot of the larger problems and only leaves the head, sump and ancilliarys to be bolted on

My dad will be paying for the tools because he wants to do an overhaul on his V6, so he can twin-charge it to 750bhp+

That's not so bad, I should have it done in a week because I'll be doing stuff and sorting out the whole engine myself. Provided there is nothing seriously wrong with it....

Thanks mate, now I can refine my plans a bit more than before. ;)

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I have decided to refit the whole interior of the car.

I was going to have it stripped out from the front seats back, but I think that with a bit of paint it'll look sweet.

How does white trim that surrounds the rear windows and boot all sound to you guys? My reasoning is that it will look more spacious in white.

I'll be doing things like painting clips silver etc, to give the car some 'trick-bits', but I'll have to get the rust sorted out first.........

Anyone agree/disagree with this decision? Opinions are welcome.

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I had another look at the interior whilst offering it up and seeing what I wanted to paint and realised, that I hadn't changed my mind enough about what I'm doing with the car.

So, I won't be spraying the interior at all and It'll be put back the way it was. But I do need to clean the ceiling part because the chav who owned it before me had smoked in it and It's stained the lovely cream/white ceiling! :(

Does anyone know of anything that will help me with the cleaning of the ceiling?

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....Does anyone know of anything that will help me with the cleaning of the ceiling?

You might want to try a spray foam carpet cleaner.... try a small area first to test the process.... good luck :thumbsup:

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....Does anyone know of anything that will help me with the cleaning of the ceiling?

You might want to try a spray foam carpet cleaner.... try a small area first to test the process.... good luck :thumbsup:

Thanks mate.

I have tried the foaming stuff but it didn't quite do it. :(

Any sort of industrial strength product that anyone knows of then? :lol:

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How about steaming it to soften the grime and then foaming it clean :huh: .... a steam wallpaper stripper should be able to help :)

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How about steaming it to soften the grime and then foaming it clean :huh: .... a steam wallpaper stripper should be able to help :)

Sounds good to me.

Cheers mate, I'll give it a go at some point. ;)

I have hit a disaster though......I was retrieving the ceiling bit from the pile of car parts and noticed that the near-side boot trim has been split down the corner! :crybaby: :o

I'll have to stitch it back together with plastic sheets and glue. When you push it together, there isn't even a seam, so it'll be hard to notice the split.

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i did the same to mine mate. when it was refitted i never noticed it. ill check which side it was if the other side is ok you can have mine (if i still got em, think my whole interior is still in the attic lol )

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i did the same to mine mate. when it was refitted i never noticed it. ill check which side it was if the other side is ok you can have mine (if i still got em, think my whole interior is still in the attic lol )

Cheers mate. I've employed my dad to perform repairs on it to see if it will be bad, but I may need to ask for yours if we can't fix it.

Luckily, it's in the dark corner of the boot, near the tail-light, so it won't be seen unless people look really REALLY closely. But I will because I know it's there so I'd like to fix it. :lol:

***UPDATE ONE SNAPPED TRIM PANEL***

I managed to fix this with my friend in 40 minutes. I used super glue, and little strips of plastic used for model walls on model railways. They were about 2cm in width and 8cm in length. I made 8 of them.

First, make sure that the surface on the back of the trim piece is degreased and scored to promote adhesion.

Get your friend to hold the trim piece together so that the split is barely visible, then put two long stripes of glue along a piece of the plastic and stick it across the split, not along it, otherwise it won't hold. Push each strip firmly against the surface for 2 minutes until it is dry. Your friend will need to keep holding it in position as you do each strip.

Remember that the time and effort expended, is directly proportional to the quality of the finished product. (Taken from Haynes ;) )

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Small update;

I have finished spraying one of the cam covers in high-temp red engine paint and although it's matte, it sparkles.

***UPDATE ON CAM COVERS***

Don't bother with high temp paint, it isn't necessary and is a faff to bake. Just degrease the cover and clean out the oil, and give it to a garage to respray in whatever colour you ask for. Job done.

----------------------------------------------------------------

The small rust spots on the tailgate have been removed by my two friends Dean and Davis. It'll be primed soon.

I have found a website that seems to have very reasonable prices for panels. I will be getting nearside and offside rear arch and offside front arch replaced.

carz2

I'll be getting some more piccies up soon of the progress. The engine will come out soon hopefully. :)

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Hi all, I have finally managed to remove the exhaust manifold with a tin of 3-in-1 and lots of swearing with my mate Davis.

We had to jack-up the front of the car and put it on axle stands. Then we had relative ease when removing the bolts on the ports, but had a really tough time removing the three bolts that hold the down-pipe to the manifold. The gasket had completely desintergrated and just fell to dust upon removal.

We had to tare off the heatshield, and then rub down and degrease the manifold ready to be painted a high-temp 500 degree matte black paint. It looks far better than the brown colour from the rust and I will be heat-wrapping it upon refitting.

Later tomorrow I will have a go at fitting the Ashley if I manage to get my hands on some more axle stands/ramps.

Both of the cam-covers have been painted red and I think that they look awsome. The brake and clutch fluid caps have been sprayed bronze which makes them fit in perfectly at the back of the bay. I have also fitted a few of the new bolts to places to make the bay look that much better, and have oiled them up before fitting to aid future removal/repairs.

The exhaust manifold and the intake manifold will be smoothed/polished tomorrow with the help of my mates. I have loads of sand-paper grades so should go well. To remove the fuel rail, I need to disconnect the fuel line. Does anyone here have any ideas on how to do that and where abouts along the line. I know that the fuel filter is in the bottom right of the bay, but I don't know if I should un-bolt the hose at the top of the filter.

I may get round to cutting some rust from the rear arches and then rust proofing them so that I can weld them at a later date.

I will need new gaskets for the exhaust system because it didn't come with any. Can anyone tell me where I can get some? And at what price?

After offering up all bits and peices to the bay, I can safely say that it will look sweet when finished!

I was pleased to find out that the 4A-GE only weighs in at 300Kg, so I may be able to lift it out myself with the aid of my mates and my dad, in the garage at home. This is apposed to paying to get the car towed to the garage in Wavendon, and then getting the engine and car back separately on a flatbed. It will be tight, but is definitly doable.

Also, can anyone tell me how to drain the power-steering fluid? I want to do it at the same time as I drain the sump to make life easier.

Thanks for any replies or advice given. :yes:

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sounds good so far.

undo the fuel line @ the filter, best and easiest, worth replacing the filter too.

exhaust gasket try a local motor factors or toyota. parts-king should be able to give you a price fo these.

as for power steering, if you want to completely drain it undo the hight pressure feed on the steering rack(pipe from the pump) and allow it to run.

word of warning, if you look on the rack you will see a blak valve with two vaccume lines on, dont break it. its the idle up valve for the power steering.

they are about £100 from toyota. when you take the engine out its best to remove it and keep it safe.

if you need to borrow an engine crane and have an estate car or similar, i have one you can borrow.

good luck

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sounds good so far.

undo the fuel line @ the filter, best and easiest, worth replacing the filter too.

exhaust gasket try a local motor factors or toyota. parts-king should be able to give you a price fo these.

as for power steering, if you want to completely drain it undo the hight pressure feed on the steering rack(pipe from the pump) and allow it to run.

word of warning, if you look on the rack you will see a blak valve with two vaccume lines on, dont break it. its the idle up valve for the power steering.

they are about £100 from toyota. when you take the engine out its best to remove it and keep it safe.

if you need to borrow an engine crane and have an estate car or similar, i have one you can borrow.

good luck

I broke my steering rack valve thing and now the engine always rev's up and down :censor: :( so as dawesy said be carerfull

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sounds good so far.

undo the fuel line @ the filter, best and easiest, worth replacing the filter too.

exhaust gasket try a local motor factors or toyota. parts-king should be able to give you a price fo these.

as for power steering, if you want to completely drain it undo the hight pressure feed on the steering rack(pipe from the pump) and allow it to run.

word of warning, if you look on the rack you will see a blak valve with two vaccume lines on, dont break it. its the idle up valve for the power steering.

they are about £100 from toyota. when you take the engine out its best to remove it and keep it safe.

if you need to borrow an engine crane and have an estate car or similar, i have one you can borrow.

good luck

Cheers mate. I'll be doing this today. I'll warn my mates about the valve thing.

I'll get a new filter when I get to putting the engine back together.

Thanks a lot.

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if you do break it just block off both pipes, it might bog down a bit when you load the rack up a bit (ie parking) but itll still run

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if you do break it just block off both pipes, it might bog down a bit when you load the rack up a bit (ie parking) but itll still run

Ok cheers mate.

I've put the cam covers in the oven at 250 degrees to bake for 1 hour. Is this ok, if not please tell me what to do! :lol:

I can't remove the intake manifold. The bolts along the top of it near the wiring have been removed, but I cannot get at the 3 bolts underneath it. Do you know how to get at them?

Oh, and I may need to take you up on the offer of an engine crane! :D How far away are you from me? I may need an experianced pair of hands to help with the removal. I'll have me and my mates there for the braun but some expert supervision may help.

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I just took em out! Smoking like crazy!!!! :lol: :lol:

I'm not doing that again!

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l

im in nottingham so not too far away

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l

im in nottingham so not too far away

O.k. thats good.

I'll most likely be doing this all over a weekend in August, depending on how smoothely it all goes. Is it possible to lift the engine out then, or does it have to be lowered out? It didn't look as if the bell housing went under the arch too much. I'm just wandering because if it can be lifted out then I'll not need to buy two extra axle stands and a jack that goes higher.

The exhaust manifold has been removed so the only things left to do are to drain the clutch and brakes, disconnect the clutch and the mounts and lower the engine out.

I am having one or two problems though; theres a wire that goes from the wiring bridge to the block, very close to the power steering pump. How do I disconnect it?

Also, I can't the wires out of the way that are over the I.M. I have unbolted the cover/box that holds them from the I.M. but the wires are still connected going into the cabin. Do these just lift over the I.M. or do I have to cut them or something?

What is the best and safest way to drain the brake and clutch fluids? The Haynes doesn't seem to be making so clear to me and I'm getting quite frustrated with not getting it done.

Sorry about all the questions, but I'd rather get it done right! :)

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I've drained the sump, finally! The oil is absoluotely ruined, all burnt and lumpy! Not good at all. But that's another thing ticked off my to-do list until the engines ready to drop...

  • Drain Power-Steering
  • Drain Clutch fluid
  • Drain Brake fluid
  • Disconnect Gear-Link brackets
  • Disconnect small and very annoying wire that is attatched to the block near the Power-Steering Pump

I'm getting there. I may be doing it slowly but I'm getting there.

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Good old summer holidays, maybe you could finish it, watch out for bed time

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