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Need Mr2 Performance Advice

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I own a '92 2.2L MR2 that is N/A. I have recently ran into some money and of corse I have to blow it all on my car. Right now my engine is stock besides some bolt on performance parts and minor adjustments (cold air intake, match fit intake and exhaust ports, Bosch platnium sparkplugs and wires, and a 50 shot nitrous express wet system). What I want to do is at least be running 400hp, But I dont know if it is even possible. I'm planning on boreing the engine 20 over and getting forged internal parts (pistons, rods, rings, crank) and while I'm in there maybe doing the upper end too (cams valves, etc.). I would also like to slap a big turbo on it. I don't think that it is possible to get up to that many horses just by boreing it out and getting a turbo so I have also taken into consideration on getting a better ignition system, a beefier injection system, and maybe some type of engine managment system. But this is where I run into my problems, I have no idea on what kind or how big of a turbo to run. I also dont know (after I figure out what turbo to get) how many cc's my injectors should be. I dont know if I could be pushing out that many horses and still run my stock drive train (minus a clutch). If there is anyone that could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appriciated!!!

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Depending on how much money you've come into, it sounds like it would be cheaper to buy a Turbo'd MR2. 400Bhp would be much more attainable and easier to reach.

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check out for different turbo's and performance figures. They also give you a clue as to what other additional changes you would need to do depending on what turbo you get.

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May I suggest you invest in the book Forced Induction Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell. It's available through Haynes publishing and hopefully it'll provide you with a better idea of what you need, and help you with the theory behind it.

Of course, plumbing in a turbo is alot of work as I'm sure you know, and it probably would be a good idea to first invest in a proper turbo lump and work from there.

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Thank you every one for your input. Any other advice from any one would be greatly appriciated!

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So you have the 5sfe?? If so this might help:



Turbo(ct26 or other)

Manifold(factory 3s)

Intercooler(factory 3s)

Piping(custom made, the turbo-intercooler from the 3s works fine)

Injectors(MKlV Supra NA) PART # 23250-70080

2bar MAP SENSOR(factory 3s) Part # 84420-17030

Downpipe Elbow/cat assembly(factory 3s)

Blow Off Valve(factory 3s if using the stock piping, otherwise after market)

Boost Contoller

Boost Guage

Exhaust work to match to DP/Cat assembly

Oil, Water/Coolant lines to and from turbo(3s if using ct26/mani)

3SGTE Oil pan(makes it alot easier)

Misc. Rubber/Silicon hose for turbo fiitings

Air/Fuel Ratio Guage


Apexi S-Afc or other similar device for more precise Air/Fuel tuning

Turbo Timer for controlled shut down of car

Of Course Engine Internals,Pistons,Rods.

Metal head gasket

Aftermarket Clutch..THIS SHOULD BE A MUST!

Exhaust temp gauge and probe for accurate readings off EG temps

The Turbo:

Choose your turbo by reaserching.reading info for specific turbos that will accomodate your specific needs.

For the most easy "bolt on" system using the ct-26 from a turbo mmodel mr2 is by far the best way to go.

By using the above the factory turbo manifold,turbo,downpipe/car assembly,turbo to intercooler pipe/hose,intercooler, and map sensor..(all from a 91-93 turbo mr2) Is a direct bolt on/in procedure.

For the fuel system the MKlV Supra NA 315cc(360 at our fuel pressure) Are a direct drop in for our stock injectors with no need to re-wire/splice or fabricate ANYTHING..Unbolt the fuel rail take out the stock,drop in the supra,bolt in up and drive it..

I would reccomend going witht the stock mr2 MAP Sensor(called the turbo pressure sensor in the turbo car) This is a "2bar" sensor and will read higher voltages in smaller increments to properly adjust the ECU to run the larger injector.This sensor will also allow up to 12psi of boost before have to do any type of Fuel Cut Defenser Modifications.


These can be picked up here in our for sale forum and on other sales related sites such as

for @75$...This WILL bolt directly on the 5sfe head with out modification other than bending the coolant lines from the water pump down aprox. 1/2in.

This will also allow you to use the aftermarket t3/t4 adaptor flanges for the 3sgte..if you decide to run a turbo of this type.


For basic(7-12psi) turbo 5s aps the factory 3sgte intercooler will suit your needs extremely well. This is also a direct bolt in part,meaning that any aftermarkt SIDEMOUNT intercooler will bolt in also. (ex. Greddy)

A good fan should be used on the IC for proper air circulation factory fans work well but SPAL,PermaCool, and others offer HI-PO fans that will work better.

Wiring of the fan is your choice from tapping into an ignition controlled circut to wiring a toggle switch to activate it.

This can be found in the same places as mentioned above for @ 50$

Intercooler piping:

I personally think using the factory 3s turbo to interrcooler pipe is the best route becase of the factory blow off valve mount wich allows use of the factory BOV or any aftermarket Kit made for the 3sgte.

The intercooler to throttle body will have to be custom made. Use 2-2 1/4 in piping here. It will depend on target boost on wich size to use.

To small and the turbo works overly hard to move the air

To large and You have the greater risk of pressure drop. This will make tuning hell.

Oil/Water lines:

The factory 3s are great if using the ct26 setup..The only mod will be to either drill/tap the block for the Oil feed or to cut the tubing to accomidate a braided hose to supply Oil tapped into the Oil pressure sensor port on the 5s head.Pay carefull attention to routing of the feed/return lines do the extreme heat the turbo.manifold produce.

Downpie/Cat assembly:

Also a factory 3s piece here. Bolts on with no Oil filter clearence problems and eases install. An aftermarket DP will remove the primary cat and increase performance.There are may companys the have these availible.

3SGTE Oil Pan:

This is by far the best way to handle the return Oil supply. The part is from Toyota so they know where the return hole need to be.It will also allow the use of the factory Oil lines with no mods to them.

Blow Off Valve:

This device stops the back surge of unused boost in the piping from reaching the turbo.(insert the PSSSSSt sound here)

The stock BOV is by far the best.easiest to use because there is no setup and it holds under boost so you never have to worry of a BOV leaking off boost pressure and the rich ****ty running of an untuned aftermarket BOV

Boost Gauge:

Self Explanitory....

Boost Controller:

This allows the fine tuning of actual boost the motor will see.

Many companys offer them from basic spring/ball types to fancy electronic ones..

Air/Fuel Gauge:

This is a tought one because of the unknown reliability of the a/f readings..this is NOT something to use to tune the fuel from,More or less a saftey feature.

Misc. houses..

Another self explained part list..



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I own a '92 2.2L MR2 that is N/A.

hmmm Then your clearly from the USA. Your better off just selling the car and buying a 3sgte MR2 Turbo (200bhp) US spec model imo and build up from that to hit your desired power. Trust me you dont want to transplant stuff itll end up costing you the same as selling your NA and buying a proper US Spec MR2 Turbo. I really dont beleive in turbo'ing engines that were manufactured to be NA. Your gauranteed to go kaboom. If youve that much money atm sell your NA and get the MR2 hit high BHP will be much simpler, cheaper and more importantly...more reliable. An NA engine with a Turbo whacked on it wont be as reliable at all (plus itll be so much more expensive).

My god it sucks that the USA didnt let the late spec 3SGTE@241BHP JDM MR2 Turbo pass 'emissions'. Political or what!

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