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Engine Idling At 1500rpm?


dns17
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Hi guys, this is a bit of a weird one. All was cool with my gen 7 yr2000 VVTL-i until I recently changed the Battery. From the first time I started the engine and revved it, the needle jumps to 1500RPM then up to whatever I rev it to, then settles back on 1500RPM in a sticky sort of way.

From the sound of the engine, I know its not idling at 1500RPM and it drives fine but this doesn't make any sense. It was idling at 1000RPM previously. Anyone have any idea's? Thanks

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Hi guys, this is a bit of a weird one. All was cool with my gen 7 yr2000 VVTL-i until I recently changed the battery. From the first time I started the engine and revved it, the needle jumps to 1500RPM then up to whatever I rev it to, then settles back on 1500RPM in a sticky sort of way.

From the sound of the engine, I know its not idling at 1500RPM and it drives fine but this doesn't make any sense. It was idling at 1000RPM previously. Anyone have any idea's? Thanks

not sure if this will work but sounds like one of 2 things ive had with batteries where i work...

is the batery a higher starting power to the one you had origionly or is it less if it is less that may bee the problem as the ecu on most modern cars needs a set amount of power and if the batery isnt quite right then it can come up with random things.

if its the same or higher unlink the Battery and check cables than reconect, this usualy resets the ecu then start the car and keep say a constant rev of about 2500-3500 for about 10 secs then leave a couple of mins, hopefully it should fix it if not i have no idea why it is hapening and its best for a garage to have a look.

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is the batery a higher starting power to the one you had origionly or is it less if it is less that may bee the problem as the ecu on most modern cars needs a set amount of power and if the batery isnt quite right then it can come up with random things.

Thanks for the reply LEX. Yes my previous Battery was 12V/45AH and I just replaced it with a 12V/40AH. This might very well be the problem. The only way to know is to get another Battery like I had before and check.

Can anyone advise about the right capacity Battery that is needed for a year 2000 VVTL-i 190BHP model? Thanks

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http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...dPartsMMYS.y=11

i did a search at work for you thats what it has come up with it should be fine with that the power and AH is higher than the previous system so your ecu will cope just fine. if you need one i can get one cheap on trade for you. saves about 30-40 quid so u onli lookin at bout 60 at the most!

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It is common when the ECU is reset (changing a battery) that you need to let it do the "from cold, warm up procedure".

On my old MR2 and S2000 it was cold start and leave idling until the cooling fans had kicked in twice.

Until then it has not gone through the cold start procedure, and will idle high.

(details may be different for newer Toyotas, or this may be complete rubbish ;) )

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http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...dPartsMMYS.y=11

i did a search at work for you thats what it has come up with it should be fine with that the power and AH is higher than the previous system so your ecu will cope just fine. if you need one i can get one cheap on trade for you. saves about 30-40 quid so u onli lookin at bout 60 at the most!

Cheers for that LEX. Will give my current Battery another chance and see what happens. If it needs changing will let you know! :thumbsup:

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It is common when the ECU is reset (changing a battery) that you need to let it do the "from cold, warm up procedure".

On my old MR2 and S2000 it was cold start and leave idling until the cooling fans had kicked in twice.

Until then it has not gone through the cold start procedure, and will idle high.

(details may be different for newer Toyotas, or this may be complete rubbish ;) )

I'll give it a go Bibbs and see what happens. Thing is that as the engine warms up etc. normal RPM indications are back and the needle is no longer sticky. Just when starting up in the morning (or afternoon in some cases)!

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Ahh, sorry, so it's the needle (only skim read the post).

Interesting .. I'd hook up a scan gauge type thing to your OBD port, it'll tell you what RPM your ECU thinks it's doing (and then you can compare to the cluster).

Once you know it's your ECU or cluster you'll be able to narrow it down to sensors etc.

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