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Hi Carl, Yes, £425 was for material and fitting which I thought was a competitive price. Some other companies I researched charged 2-3 times that, but maybe also included more material/coverage. Can't remember. It took them around 5h to fit but that was also because they created templates for future TS customers. Should take less time now if you decide to go for it. I also have 18" Falkens 😞 which I wasn't happy about as the spec had changed when I ordered the car (previously 17") and the dealer didn't let me know. It's a shame as on lower speed and some roads the car just seems to glide with little to no noise 😎 But we have some stretches of A road around here in Lincolnshire where at 70mph the db measuring app I used gave me a reading of around 80dB (little difference before and after fitting). But the frequency spectrum has improved and subjectively, it feels more quiet than before. Plus the car is definitely less boomy. That's interesting what you write about your Avensis. The 2019 Kia Niro hybrid I had before seemed also more noisy.

Hello Looking for some help with my Toyota Estima Hybrid the engine light came on about a week ago no signs of anything running out of the ordinary car doesn't feel down on power fuel consumption hasn't changed but obviously I don't want to be driving around with the engine light on 24/7 I've tried clearing it but it comes back within about 3-4 hours, the first screenshot from my OBD reader app is from when the light first came on and the second screenshot is from when it came back on a few hours later so I'm a bit stumped as to what O2 sensor might be at fault the top one I can access pretty easy to stick the multi-meter on but I'm not sure if that's the one that has failed or is failing so I don't want to go prodding around I'm also unsure as to which part I need to source I don't know if the O2 sensors are both the same make and model or if they differ slightly not finding out a whole lot via google. I also can't seem to find any obvious fuse for the O2 sensor heater circuit I'm not sure if this car even has one, visual inspection of the wiring and sensor doesn't reveal any obvious signs of failure. Any input would be greatly appreciated as a trip to the garage at the moment isn't really on the table, also would it be best to replace it with the same brand or would opting for a third party brand work just the same? this one for example seems to match the part number on the O2 sensor in my image I've attached to this post.

Dealer hiding info eh? Sounds dodgier than a dodgem operator with 20 dodgems to me. Please listen to what the others are saying and find another,the old saying "there's always another one" is true.

Praise

I've just seen this https://news.sky.com/story/welsh-government-set-to-announce-changes-to-20mph-limits-13121282

The PWR button paces the gears to be ready to down shift quicker with less press of the throttle. It also will take the rpm right to the redline then shift up, where as in NORMAL mode it wouldn't The MANU button puts the transmission into a state where the gearshifts are quicker, this can be felt when you go thru the gear shifts manually from L into 2 then D giving it that clutchless gear shift feel and or sound during manual type (off throttle) up shift driving. It should be noted that the quickened shifts associated with the MANU mode are not entirely present with the PWR mode The OD button (i should mention) is basically the third gear in my four speed transmission, good for the highway when you need a kick down and pull away gear. If you drive using the MANU button like i do then you would have the O/D off (off in these terms means overdrive is on) as you shift through the gears from L upwards, tho you would need to disengage OD to get into the top gear NORMAL mode. Well the whole transmission system is placed into a state with economy in mind. Expect gearshifts earlier and with a sluggish feel. Also you will need to press the throttle in more for the trans to kickdown into lower gears. Normal is good for petrol economy. Chur

Deffo walk away, a garage has to tell you if the car has been CAT damaged, best go elsewhere for a Kebab, far too many get rich quick garages appearing. I always get the address of the garage then Google map it and drop the little man in the road outside the garage and look to see what the buildings are like, it can tell you a lot, here's an example, here's my wife's car what got written off, it had 11mths MOT when this happened, I think it was 3yrs ago now, we were told not to had over the LOG book (V5) when the car was collected and it was back on the road within 4wks with the remainder of the MOT, if any of the members have this car, it was written off.

Reward

Please - as others have said, walk away. This guy is definitely some kind of artist - probably of the impressionist school.

I want to change the blade as it's starting to not clear properly. I think it's the original, so at 6 yo probably time. Bought a Bosch replacement. Watched a couple of YouTube vids about changing. Failed 🥴 . Can't get the old one off. Had a quick search of the forum but can't find any info about this, so it must be me. The videos show the blade just pushing out of the U after lifting the trim, but mine won't budge. Looking at the replacement there appears to be a nib that locates in a hole in the U which will need pushing up to release. Because of the location it's hard to see what's what in there, so I've tried pushing various bits and some feel a bit springy but still don't seem to release the blade from the U. Someone please tell me the magic words as the ones I've used, which I won't quote as the snowflake filter would commit hari-kari, have had no effect.

Oh the new new one with the 3 exhausts? Yeah that's quite a jump in price! If you have the registration plate you can look up its MOT history for free via the gov.uk site, and also use paid services like CarVertical to dig out more info (Many car YouTubers are sponsored by them now, e.g. JayEmm, AutoAlex etc. so you can use their discount codes). Frankly though, the Yaris is not a rare car so I'd look elsewhere rather than deal with all the hassle this one will no doubt bring. Unless it's ungodly cheap, it's not worth wasting your time on it - The only ones worth that kind of hassle are the Mk1 T-Spirits and D4D T-Spirits as they are super rare, but the regular 1.0 and 1.3 petrols are quite plentiful.

Prize

Walk away.

Nobel (Alfred).

I’ve got 17” 4x100 fitment alloys on my 2010 IQ With 205/45/17 tyres

That suggests to me he's hiding something.

Gelignite

Hi Tiago, The VSS sensor is typically located on the driver's side of the transmission case in your car. a repair manual can provide specific visuals.. A faulty or dirty VSS sensor can trigger this code. Check the wiring harness near the sensor for any visible damage. If the wiring looks okay you can try carefully cleaning the sensor itself with electrical cleaner. If the code persists after cleaning and inspection, speak to a mechanic for diagnosis and potential replacement. P0420 Catalytic Converter this code indicates a problem with the catalytic converter system, which involves the exhaust system. Due to the potential complexity of diagnosing and repairing the exhaust system, speak to a mechanic is the best option. They can pinpoint the exact issue, whether it's the converter itself, oxygen sensors like the upstream sensor before the converter for Bank 1 in your car, or exhaust leaks. Brake vibration,warped brake rotors are a common culprit for brake vibration when cold. While replacing rotors might be a DIY project for some, it's generally recommended to have a mechanic confirm the diagnosis. They can ensure other components aren't causing the vibration and recommend a solution, resurfacing or replacing the rotors. A flashing airbag light signifies a serious malfunction in the airbag system. I would get this looked at ASAP as it's critical for safety. This requires immediate attention as soon as possible. Airbag systems are complex and require specialists to ensure your safety. Hope this helps.

OK back to the car in question and seller turns out it's a garage not a private sale . I told him to day that I found the old add with the CAT.. N info on it and the new don't have the CAT N info on it I asked him for the information off the log book to do the hpi check he refused to give the 11 dig log book one so I can't do the check till buy the car . So I'm going to go all over the car to see if there any faults if I find any. As we not planning on selling the car the insurance said its fine so I still need to hear your info . Cheers

This thread is of interest to me as I am seriously thinking of getting the new C-HR, so much so that I have had a conversation with the dealer. I have read numerous reviews on t'net and watched loads of YouTube videos and am nearly convinced! Does some one want to try and talk me out of it .....? 😉

It's the new type R one he's after . in royal blue i think he said or the german grey one . There £15K and I don't want to go there for insurance lol why he's going for a cheap one to build it .

I wish I had purchased the older model just got the gr sport hybrid thought i was going mad every time i turned the beep off and it came back the next day it drives me mad every time it beeps

Well the year will be part of the registration plate so you're sorted!

Explosive