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Dash Has Come Up With 3 Warning Messages (Heeelp!)


Seth1
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Just driving along minding my own business - all of a sudden - beeping...I thought what the heck is that!

anyway 3 warning messages:

1. Check ABS

2. Check VSC

3. Check 4x4

The ABS warning light is on - and Brack Warning Light...

Drives OK!

Checked for error codes but none logged that I can see

Any suggestions welcome..(before I phone Westlands Toyota)

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Its probably the EGR stuck but I'm surprised there are no error codes.

Before you rip it apart, there is brake fluid in it???

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I expect there will be error codes, but they won't necessarily be available with an OBD reader, if they are not powertrain related.

For braking/VSC DTCs, the other way is to connect pins 4 and 13 of the diagnostic connector together. You'll then get the DTCs displayed on the instrument pack display.

Could well be EGR as the maestro says, but also I've seen similar messages when the DTCs relate the the brake pedal switch.

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So guys do you thing that Toyota Diagnostics machines will find the culprit.....

Also if it is the EGR - will I damage anything driving it...?

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No you won't damage anything but if it sticks wide open it will go into limp mode. Could well be brake light switch as shcm says. How have you tried to read it?

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No you won't damage anything but if it sticks wide open it will go into limp mode. Could well be brake light switch as shcm says. How have you tried to read it?

anchorman - with one of those readers you reccomended off eBay...£25 --

Bye the way - I tried messing with the 4x4 lock switch - it eventualy made the dash errors go away - but within 30 secs they came back on..sometimes with different msgs --- 2wd & something about heat in the diff....swiched off re-started and back come the original msg...

I have it booked into Westland on Mon night for diagnostics....

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I have exactly the same today, same warnings, sequence, lights etc. in my 2007 XT5.

Plugged in the diagnostic thing from fleabay, and no DTC codes at all.

The other message we got in the cold too (yesterday, briefly) was high heat in transfer case.

I had barely left the driveway. :unsure:

Im putting it down to the cold (-8 at moment), it happened last week (-6) and cleared after 10 miles driving, never appeared again (while there was a thaw) until today. The 2.2 D4D engine barely gives off enough heat as it is.

The car does sit in an exposed driveway and get the wind chill factor off the fields very easily.

I think Anchorman mentioned something about low voltage supply to ABS ECU, below 9.6v, on another (similar) topic.

Would that tie in with poor starting in mornings?

No limp mode at all, engine running fine, although took a fair amount of cranking this morning.

_____

Update, connected 4 & 13 together.

ABS 3338

VSC 43

4WD 9699

Any ideas?

Looked up fault codes but all start with P?

PS. This will please Bothy, the wee 4.1 Giant, just crossed the 100k mark yesterday, starting and driving no issues at all in this cold snap!

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I have exactly the same today, same warnings, sequence, lights etc. in my 2007 XT5.

Plugged in the diagnostic thing from fleabay, and no DTC codes at all.

The other message we got in the cold too (yesterday, briefly) was high heat in transfer case.

I had barely left the driveway. :unsure:

Im putting it down to the cold (-8 at moment), it happened last week (-6) and cleared after 10 miles driving, never appeared again (while there was a thaw) until today. The 2.2 D4D engine barely gives off enough heat as it is.

The car does sit in an exposed driveway and get the wind chill factor off the fields very easily.

I think Anchorman mentioned something about low voltage supply to ABS ECU, below 9.6v, on another (similar) topic.

Would that tie in with poor starting in mornings?

No limp mode at all, engine running fine, although took a fair amount of cranking this morning.

_____

Update, connected 4 & 13 together.

ABS 3338

VSC 43

4WD 9699

Any ideas?

Looked up fault codes but all start with P?

PS. This will please Bothy, the wee 4.1 Giant, just crossed the 100k mark yesterday, starting and driving no issues at all in this cold snap!

Smiler - Had no starting problems - How do you short the pins out ... and how do u identify them.....

By the way last night messing with the 4wd lock I got rid of the messages, this morning started the rav up and no messages...moved the car backwards and forwards still no messages...(did not go any furthes as I live on a hill and we have 8 inches of snow...

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Just had a piece of wire from stereo wiring, cut a 3" long bit and exposed the ends.

Theres two row of holes that make up the socket (near the bonnet release), I just assumed the holes, top row 1 to 8 across, then 9 to 16 - which it is.

Basically, just pushed the two ends of wires in and turned to 1st ignition stage ie. so the cluster instrument lit up.

It then came up with Airbag FF (fully functional), then used the trip odo reset button on the cluster to cycle through each stage and got that codes above.

Interestingly (and this might back up about voltage / Battery theory). I had to pick up kids earlier, 6mile trip on main road. So I decided to leave it in 3rd, driving about 50mph, yes, revs were up. I kinda wondered if that would help charge Battery (think I remember reading long time ago that a Battery doesnt start charging until certain revs maintained for certain time.

And yep, after 4 mile, all the lights went out. Joy :D

Would crawling about in this bad weather at low revs be causing the battery to struggle and not charge? Just a thought.

Bit strange how we have exactly the same problem at the same time during this weather??

Gonna see if I can pick up a voltmeter thingy next few days to test battery.

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Anyone got a spec of what Battery should be for 2007 2.2D ?

Just so I can compare, dont want to just assume my Battery is correct one.

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Would crawling about in this bad weather at low revs be causing the battery to struggle and not charge? Just a thought.

Battery efficiency can drop like a stone at these low temperatures - and doing wee 6 mile runs won't help things either.

But if needs must, and all that.

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Update, connected 4 & 13 together.

ABS 3338

VSC 43

4WD 9699

Any ideas?

Looked up fault codes but all start with P?

Yeah, but the ones starting with P are usually powertrain related.

The five character ones for these (probably toyota specific) start C. They have 2 digit versions also, which is what you get with the "wire method".

Anyway

33 (C0210) - Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Signal

38 (C1238) - Foreign Object is Attached on Tip of Rear Speed Sensor RH

So, have look around the right rear wheel!

43 (C1243) - Acceleration Sensor Stuck Malfunction. While vehicle speed decreases from 30 km/h (18 mph) to 0 km/h (0 mph), condition that ECU terminal GL1 value does not change to 0.0294 G or more occurs 16 times consecutively.

96 (C1296) ABS malfunction. - When either condition below is met:

1. Wheel speed sensor malfunction is received from skid control ECU

2. Deceleration sensor malfunction is received from skid control ECU

(probably just generated due to above wheelspeed sensor fault).

99 (C1299) - Cancellation of 4WD Control - When one of following conditions is met:

1. Control coupling lock is detected 4 more times.

2. Condition that controls coupling calorific value is predefined value or more.

3. Condition that transfer oil temperature is predefined value or more.

4. Vehicle is driven and energy load tire radius difference between front tires and rear tires more than 3%.

(sounds like overheat).

EDIT: Depending on the fault, the light will very often not come on with the next ignition cycle. It depends on a number of things, e.g. considered severity of fault whether the fault can no longer be detected...blah...blah.

The codes will still be stored however. They can be cleared. With the thing in diag mode as smiler describes, press the brake pedal 8 times within 5 seconds.

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Cheers for info,

I was reading the 2 sets of 2 digit codes as one 4 digit number.

I wonder if that foreign object would be frozen solid ice and slush?

Its fairly packed in there amongst all the wheels.

Could it maybe that thats freeing up after a few mile on open road.

All of that code seem to tie in with each other, slowing down at slow speed with a dodgy reading off the rear ABS sensor is throwing it all up.

Having just bought the car a few weeks ago from a Toyota dealer, it came with a years warranty, would this include an ABS sensor or is classed as a perishable item like exhaust, brakes etc.

Be interesting to see what codes Seth1 comes back with.

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Looking at connections / terminals, they are all dry too.

Im a great believer in using vasoline (oh no!, that came out wrong :!Removed!: ) on the terminals and spraying the electrical connections - thinks its a silicone based stuff from keeping moisture out - its in the garage somewhere.

I did change my Battery to a Varta G7 partly because my OEM one died on me, and I thought it was too puney anyway.

My car sat out in temperatures below -10'C for several days and it started first time without hesitation.

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Having just bought the car a few weeks ago from a Toyota dealer, it came with a years warranty, would this include an ABS sensor or is classed as a perishable item like exhaust, brakes etc.

No, I don't believe it should be a "wear" item. If it is related to that (and remember the DTCs are only an indicator), it could also be wiring or just crud in the connector or possibly the "ring" that, with the sensor, generates the wheel speed pulses. Probably just crud somewhere.

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Well......

I might just be tempted to clear that lot and see what happens.

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Cheers for info,

I was reading the 2 sets of 2 digit codes as one 4 digit number.

I wonder if that foreign object would be frozen solid ice and slush?

Its fairly packed in there amongst all the wheels.

Could it maybe that thats freeing up after a few mile on open road.

All of that code seem to tie in with each other, slowing down at slow speed with a dodgy reading off the rear ABS sensor is throwing it all up.

Having just bought the car a few weeks ago from a Toyota dealer, it came with a years warranty, would this include an ABS sensor or is classed as a perishable item like exhaust, brakes etc.

Be interesting to see what codes Seth1 comes back with.

When I get up this morning I will attempt the dashboard reading and see what it comes back with - then I will clear the errors as described and see what happens..

This forum is awsome...!

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OK - been out and tested as per the instructions (shorting out pins 4 and 13

Would you belive it -same error codes

ABS 33 38

VSC 43

4WD 96

also P/S 41

Cleared them down - slight change

VSC now just 43

ABS just 33

P/S still 41

4WD still 96

Also see this Click Me

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Power Steering (EPS,P/S) 41 (U0105) is complaining about CAN communication with the engine management.

However, this one may well be a red herring and the advice is to clear that one first.

Without a Toyota compatible handheld tester, the procedure for clearing P/S faults is slightly different to the ABS/VSC ones.

This time, connect terminals 12 and 4 of the diagnostic connector.

Turn the ignition switch on.

Disconnect terminal 4 and reconnect it and repeat this procedure 4 times or more within 8 seconds.

Check that the P/S warning light blinking pattern is the normal code.

Turn the ignition switch off.

Remove wire from the diag connector.

I guess you could then reconnect 4 and 13 and check the P/S code has gone. Like Anchs said above, with any of these things it might be an idea to clear them all first, then see if they come back later. However, I guess that is what you have done. Sometimes, as most ECUs are talking on CAN, you can get DTCs in non-faulty systems, because the system with the fault is not responding properly, to the non-faulty ECU/system.

dlc3PsClear.jpg

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I have exactly the same today, same warnings, sequence, lights etc. in my 2007 XT5.

Plugged in the diagnostic thing from fleabay, and no DTC codes at all.

The other message we got in the cold too (yesterday, briefly) was high heat in transfer case.

I had barely left the driveway. :unsure:

Im putting it down to the cold (-8 at moment), it happened last week (-6) and cleared after 10 miles driving, never appeared again (while there was a thaw) until today. The 2.2 D4D engine barely gives off enough heat as it is.

The car does sit in an exposed driveway and get the wind chill factor off the fields very easily.

I think Anchorman mentioned something about low voltage supply to ABS ECU, below 9.6v, on another (similar) topic.

Would that tie in with poor starting in mornings?

No limp mode at all, engine running fine, although took a fair amount of cranking this morning.

_____

Update, connected 4 & 13 together.

ABS 3338

VSC 43

4WD 9699

Any ideas?

Looked up fault codes but all start with P?

PS. This will please Bothy, the wee 4.1 Giant, just crossed the 100k mark yesterday, starting and driving no issues at all in this cold snap!

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my take on these cheap code readers is that they only read emmision related stuff to do with the engine ecu only,& stuff to do with other systems will not be readable.

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my take on these cheap code readers is that they only read emmision related stuff to do with the engine ecu only,& stuff to do with other systems will not be readable.

They do OBD/EOBD, which is required to be an "open" standard protocol under Federal and EU legislation and relates to powertrain. Other vehicle systems will very often be manufacturer (or group) diagnostic protocol specific (at least one protocol layer) and again will very often be proprietary. At least Toyota builds in other diagnostic methods. :thumbsup:

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Just driving along minding my own business - all of a sudden - beeping...I thought what the heck is that!

anyway 3 warning messages:

1. Check ABS

2. Check VSC

3. Check 4x4

The ABS warning light is on - and Brack Warning Light...

Drives OK!

Checked for error codes but none logged that I can see

Any suggestions welcome..(before I phone Westlands Toyota)

Hi, I had this prob a year back. EGR was my problem, sooted up. Could well be EGR sooted up due to the bad weather, look at how you have been driving, how often have you got up to 60+ to give the engine a good blast. All this driving around at 30 or lower speeds wont do it much good. I havent got above 40 in a week due to no gritting on the roads, my fuel economy is suffering dread to think what it is doing to the EGR again!

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Bit weird both of us with same codes at same time.

Anyways, had the car today, so tried a few experiments.

Cleared codes after each time, situations the codes came back and warnings flashing away.

1. Starting off in snow (ie. my driveway, track), however not on tarmac (asda in town)

2. If I put the power down.

If i start off in tarmac and drive like a wimp, seems fine.

Thoughts,

The above seems to suggest that whenever I need the ABS / speed sensors to work, ie. either braking, engaging 4WD ie. starting in snow.

Is the Rav thinking, err, one dodgy signal from the rear right ABS and throwing up codes.

If i drive like a wimp, the ABS isnt needed, therfore no warning lights / codes.

Does it sound similar to yours too Seth1?

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Hi, I had this prob a year back. EGR was my problem, sooted up. Could well be EGR sooted up due to the bad weather, look at how you have been driving, how often have you got up to 60+ to give the engine a good blast. All this driving around at 30 or lower speeds wont do it much good. I havent got above 40 in a week due to no gritting on the roads, my fuel economy is suffering dread to think what it is doing to the EGR again!

Possibly, I took it off the other week, manifold bit / port holes was okay, but was a bit unsure about unscrewing the round plate off the back of the valve itself, I assume thats how you get into it for cleaning?

Would that not throw up code on diagnostic though?

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