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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/18/2011 in all areas

  1. Rick if i were you id sent that post off as a letter or email to Toyota Red diesel I honestly can not see what this will achieve after I had one of the Toyota UK guys test our car over 2 days and then right me a BS letter claiming he got good MPG on the car and that it must be down to the fuel we use, when I got the car back it had 47.3MPG on the average trip over 138miles and I thought WTF? but even before I had done half a mile that had dropped by 2MPG which said he had reset the trip and coasted back into Toyota to make it look good as all of you will know the average trip does not drop like a lead balloon when you have covered 138miles. When I challenged him on the phone about this I was just given the average PR BS lines but I did remember all this when buying another car and did the best thing I could do to help him keep his cushy job and bought another brand "Honda". I personally believe over the last 5 years that Toyota has really dropped the ball with quality control and design and are now beginning to pay the price for this and how can they not know about the MPG issues with T180/SR180 models and how can they not find a problem when MPG can be around 15MPG / 40-50% less than they claim? I think Toyota cant afford in cost or public press to admit the problems and put them right and take the approach that as these account for only about 10% of the range or less that this will go away in time when warranties run out. Obviously this is only my opinion and I could be wrong but then why did Toyota UK deny there was a problem with our car when the evidence speaks for it self? I was more thinking of the "switching brand to Honda bit" when i suggested sending that post as an email or letter to Toyota, Clearly the clowns at Toyota didn't give a :censor: about your fuel consumption when you actually owned the car (otherwise they might have fixed it). But they might just start taking interest in these problems if they see that they are losing repeat business. But of course they may indeed not give a hoot in which case they don't deserve anyones business lol. You expect that if there are issues with a car that a manufacturer will move mountains to fix it in order to keep the customer happy. I was browsing through Jaguar Monthly there the other day at a newsagents - and they had a used car buying guide on the first model XJ8. Now the early models of these had the Nikasil linings in the cylinder bores like BMW and Jaguar had exactly the same problem with high Sulphur levels in petrol during the 1990s causing wear in the Nikasil lining. Now heres the thing Jaguar Monthly pointed out that this could have put Jaguars reputation on the line. But Jaguar (according to the magazine) replaced the Nikasil engines with later steel lined engines free of charge if the car had less than 100 000 miles done. Thus appearently protecting their reputation. Best of luck with the CRZ Red diesel
    2 points
  2. I thought I should add my own story to this thread. I needed a super reliable horse towing vehicle and thought the 35K mile, 54 plate LC3 I bought 18 months ago was just the ticket. Well, about a month ago at 45K miles the oil light kept flickering about. I took it in to a non Toyota garage for an engine flush. Problem solved. Then a couple of weeks ago, it blew up exiting the M1 with no warning, luckily without horses in tow. The RAC man said in 16 years he has never recovered a dead LC. I was all set to cough up for a second hand engine when I found this forum. Off it went to my local Toyota dealer. To cut a long story short, Toyota, God bless them are giving me a new engine with a total parts cost of £9.5k, in spite of the car being 1.5 years out of warranty. The dealership said they have never seen an engine with so much damage to so many parts. They were so impressed they even gave me a tour of the carnage. The sump filter looked like the bottom of a cafetiere, so it sounds like our old friends the copper seals might have been the culprits. I have to pay labour, but hell, I am really am not complaining since they will do my worn clutch at the same time saving me labour on that within the next year. Big up for Pentagon Toyota Sheffield. Highly recommended. Imagine getting the same treatment from a Land Rover dealer?...
    1 point
  3. P is powertrain - engine and gearbox, C is chassis so will read the ABS etc and B is body so that is where airbag and other SRS codes can be found. The code reader above will read P codes and may read B&C codes but just check with the supplier. This one will do all 3; http://www.autel-tech.com/jp701.htm
    1 point
  4. Hi Mistermenaa. a while ago i posted how i asked my local Mr T what oil they used and they said castrol magnatec profesionel C2 5w 30.this cant be brought over the counter.when i rang castrol and got a chap who knows what he is talking about,he told castrol do not reccomened normal magnatec or Edge for diesels with a DPF.i beleave there is several different magnatec oils so maybe they now have one thats C2 or c3.jaguar diesels which i thought were much the same as ford one.there dealer use another type casrol proffessionel grade a C3.they say you can top up your sump with magnatec but do not top up with edge whatever you do. all very strange.my handbook states for diesels you should use a c2. grade.as ive said ive posted about this before,but have not got a clue how to put up a link for it. Hi Acetip, It seems to be a bit of a mine field when it comes to oil spec's and grades! I'm a bit of an oil head when it comes to using the right product for my cars, and I believe that some oils could be doing some harm to the DPF if you use the wrong one. The owners handbook sometimes doesn't help with this matter due to giving many alternatives. But I'm guessing they have to so owners have a choice if the grade/spec they require is not readly available. i m just the same,being fussy what oil i use.most oils are good enugh where hydroscopic lubrication takes place (bearings,bores etc),but where this effect does not occure as in valve gear which is also whee the heaviest loads take place per square inch the wrong spec oil can cause advanced wear.use the wrong or poor fuel in your car you will notice it.so puting a good fuel in will cure the problem.put a poor or wrong oil in your engine and it will take many thousands of miles before you notice something is wrong.the damage is done,so what ever oil you put in aftrwards its not going to put it right.oil is cheaper than bearings.dont skimp on it i say. I agree with you again on these points. Using any kind of lube that isn't upto the spec is a false economy in the long term. so is using some cheap fuels IMO. Its the same as us eating crap foods and expecting to be in the best of health. It just doesn't happen. Oil is the life blood of an engine, keeping the engine running as it should and helping maintain valves/bearings ect as you said.
    1 point
  5. in the do-it-yourself section page 270 in handbook it hardly mentions C2 other than if you cant get it use B1. but in specifications section page 395 there is a warning about C2.this warning should be on both pages. as many people dont study there handbooks,and ask questions about things that can be answered by just reading there handbook.
    1 point
  6. Hi Mistermenaa. a while ago i posted how i asked my local Mr T what oil they used and they said castrol magnatec profesionel C2 5w 30.this cant be brought over the counter.when i rang castrol and got a chap who knows what he is talking about,he told castrol do not reccomened normal magnatec or Edge for diesels with a DPF.i beleave there is several different magnatec oils so maybe they now have one thats C2 or c3.jaguar diesels which i thought were much the same as ford one.there dealer use another type casrol proffessionel grade a C3.they say you can top up your sump with magnatec but do not top up with edge whatever you do. all very strange.my handbook states for diesels you should use a c2. grade.as ive said ive posted about this before,but have not got a clue how to put up a link for it.
    1 point
  7. It will work but at that price you should be getting a scanner that will read C and B codes as well as the usual P codes. The description lists them but then has question marks all over them. I would question that with the supplier before buying.
    1 point
  8. There is a known problem, where exhaust gases leak past the copper injector seals and contaminate the oil. This eventually blocks the oil strainer. Toyota have increased the warranty on the engine for this faut to 5 years/100,000 miles (apparently you may have to push them though). Toyota upgraded the copper injector seals to aluminium in cars built from early 2008. Toyota Ireland recalled the cars to upgrade the copper seals to aluminium. Toyota GB did not. I've had mine changed to aluminium and I'd advise anyone else who intends to keep their LC long term to do the same.
    1 point
  9. Well my understanding about this is that DPF-filter = use Acea C2 oil. Owner manual states, that if you have it you should use that oil. If don´t, Acea A1/B1 is fine.(1AD-FTV) So, why should 2AD-FHV engine be any different? It has DPF-filter and even more complex exhaust treatment system. But also as you said customer should be able to trust your cars owners manual.
    1 point
  10. I've just been on the carlube web site and put in my reg, and it comes up with a semi 15w/40!!! Which is a load of !Removed!! :censor: :ffs: It also states to use a DOT 3 brake fluid for the Auris! I wouldn't put that in the next door neighbours lawn mower! lol... Thinking about it I might as he's a bit of a :censor: Motul RBF 600 Factory Line racing brake fluid is what I use in my motor
    -1 points
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