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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/10/2013 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    the 2.5 d4d in our hiace vans when i worked for toyota materials handling could reach 250k+ in some of the higher mileage vans and we sold them only due to being 5 - 6 years old and replacing them due to company image . the vans were in great condition with no major probs the usual things we replaced in each vehicles life were service filters timing belts ignition barrels due to wear/steer lock sticking rear axle torsion beam ( bush would wear and rear axle banging on gear change or deceleration) batteries heater plugs tyres thats it not bad for a service van that had done nearly 300k and they were sold on instantly for strong money to our asian friends this proven reliability sold the toyota to me from now on id only purchase certain mfrs vehicles jap or german seem to get high 200ks regularly as taxis toyota/honda/ maybey kia with thier nicer new models and 7 year warranties wouldnt touch the nissan as it shares the same dci as the renault prone to go wrong after 100k
  2. 1 point
    Here are some pdf files about where to find the sensor in the engine room and how to test it. I was not sure wich engine you have, but I assumed you have the 1AZ-FSE. I don't remember where I found these files, but I had that fault code in November after I had driven through some water on the road and I used them then. 58.pdf m_12_0013.pdf
  3. 1 point
    My 58 plate is now 180000 mls no clutch change yet and no head gasket failure !!!!! two front wheel bearings, two sets of rear bushes, an alternator and a heater control valve £460 ouch !! but overall looking forward to next 100000 mlks.
  4. 1 point
    Hello, why is that hose disconnected from the intake? Here is an attachment of the intake system. Pete. INTAKE.pdf
  5. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Greetings from North Wales! Just bought my wife a 56 plate Rav4 XT3 in black. We had a Rav4.1 back in 2010 for 12 months during our time in Cyprus when I was working out there - we fell in love with the Rav's from that time on....anyway, I bought it for a steal from a private seller - 60k on the clock, FSH, it's like new...I have a few problems (I think), I'm a bit of a car fan so did my research on the problems before buying. 1. Slight knock from steering wheel - I researched this before I bought the car as the seller told me about it and I took a chance that it's not a big fix. Did any of you manage a contribution from toyota to fix seeing as it wasnt fixed as a recall or TSB? 2. Car seems to over rev when accelerating - seems a bit strange but when I accelerate and change gear as normal the revs increase by about 200-300rpm, If I wait a second when changing gear this doesnt happen - any ideas? Could it be a sticking accelerator pedal or MAF / airflow related? 3 - How the hell do you work out those reversing sensors? Can you disable some of the beeps with techstream? 4 - Acceleration seems a little hesitant especially in 3rd gear lower revs - would cleaning the MAF help? The Rav is also booked in for a recall inspection on the rear suspension. Oh, and I've changed the low & high beam bulb for some ultra bright ones from Halfords and have made a massive difference already. Thanks for any help! See you guys around - cheers...Mark.
  6. 1 point
    Difficulty - Easy Time - 5 minutes. Tools - None Frequency - Normal Conditions: 14000 miles Dusty conditions: 12 months or 9000 miles UK Part No and price TBA by Lindop Brothers Toyota in subsequent post. Additional information - Further diagrams can be found on page 276/279 of the Owners Handbook (LHD shown). Filter may not be fitted to models with manual air conditioning. Introduction To improve the environment inside the car, a clean air filter is fitted to the heater intake. This is intended to remove dust and particles that would otherwise enter the car. The filter fitted to the RAV is a particulate filter which has been electrostatically charged to capture the finest particles that are also positive or negatively charged and attracted to the filter. New filters are snow white but soon become blackened by the volume of tiny particles trapped within them. The result as well as a fresher interior is cleaner interior and air vents etc. A filter that is becoming clogged will also starve the interior of fresh air and windows will quickly steam up so it is very important to replace the filter as at the correct interval or more frequently under dusty conditions. Replacement filters with an activated carbon core may become available which also remove odours that may occur for instance in heavy traffic. The filter will soon become clogged with flies and leaves etc. The blackening is due to dust and pollen (even smaller than the pores in the filter) that have been attracted to the filter fibres. It is very easy to access this filter so I recommend that you remove and clean the filter at least every 12 months and if it looks clogged, replace it. Procedure 1. Working from the passenger side, empty the glove box and remove the damper from the left hand side; 2. Squeeze the stops at either side of the glove box to allow it to drop down; 3. Drop the glove box to just below level to expose the mounting hinges and pull the glove box back towards the seat in order to detach it. With the glove box removed the white plastic access cover is clearly visible on the heater case. Press the clip on the left side to remove the cover outwards; 4. Withdraw the filter from the heater intake; 5. It can be seen in this photo how much debris has been trapped in 10 months/7500 miles (Note, the cleaner filter in this photo has been fitted for about a month and is already beginning to discolour). As an interim measure it is acceptable to turn the filter upside down and tap out the large objects onto a hard surface and vacuum the fine particles from the dirty side only. Avoid breathing the dust. It is unwise to leave replacement beyond the recommended intervals and essential not to leave the filter out all together. 6. To refit a new filter place it into the heater intake with the "UP" arrow positioned accordingly. Replace the cover, glovebox and glovebox damper.
  7. 1 point
    Hi Steve My apologies for the late reply! My dealer is John Roe motors in Grimsby. They've shafted me, as has the warranty company. Toyota UK just shrugged their shoulders and said "Oh well". As you can imagine, I am REALLY REALLY miff about this! I'm driving in a hot car (it blows 30 degree air when set to 18 degrees). The kids are constantly groggy and I am driving around in what is supposed to be a reliable, premium car with no A/C. The dealership I bought it from (Grimsby) says that Edenbridge Toyota wouldn't have been able to re-gas if the compressor was shot. The A/C light only started flashing in January (Within the warranty limit which expired 10 March) and Edenbridge and Grimsby says it is the A/C compressor that failed at that point. I don't have money for a new car, nor can I trade it in with a retailer who is actually worth his business - due to the "Credit crunch" and that I owe more than what the car is worth!
  8. 1 point
    :hokus-pokus: Your luck is in. (Sorry, they don't call me big ed for nothing.) I have had the problem too on my 1994 Lucy. I assume from notes above you have a Previa manual, regardless here goes; Remove inside handle: You will need a 12" - 18" peice of cloth (Highly technical) summer dress type material (Don't tell the mrs) proably 6" - 8" wide. You need to wrap it round the shaft holding the handle on. So that it slips between the handle and the trim of the door. You need then to dislodge a clip by using a polishing motion (This took about 15mins first time so be warned). The clip can be replaced in a number of ways so you'll have to work round to find which way it's facing. It's basically a C shaped clip with sticky outy bits at each end. Good luck! When the spring clip pops out the handle slides off and a plastic washer thing the purpose of which remains a mystery. Remember how they came off though! The rest is simple!!! One posidrive screw in the lock switch surround and two in the lower half of the door. The one in the lock will allow you to remove the switch surround which slides to the side before coming away. The switch stays in place. (You'll probably end up with a bruise from the seat which gets in the way during all these operations!) You then have to pry off the panel, there are a number of clips so take your time as the panel is in two halves and only joined with staples. The panel can then be slid out towards the back of the car checking for any further attachements as you go. Mine didn't have any. Now you will be confronted by a plastic sheet stuck down around the edges by the most sticky substance known to man. My preference at this stage would be to slice a hole in this in the right place rather than try and remove the whole sheet. This is to protect the inner skin from moisture damage so make only the minimum incision. The right place is roughly central to the whole door and a magic box with a number of electrical connections, one of which heads towards the handle end of the door low down. If you disconnect and reconnect each electrical connection in turn one of them will result in the very satisfying sopund you hear when shutting the door. Replace the handle temporarily and you should open it. I hope you do. Now the painful bit: On the leading edge of the door are two black things with a number of spring loaded connectors in. The lower one has two connectors I bet that one of these has a broken spring and therein lies the source of the problem. This unit unscrews and weighe about an ounce but will set you back £24 at the dealers who will order it and take two weeks to get it. And as they say in all the good manuals reffitting is simply a revers of dismantle. Have lots of fun. If the above doesn't work try all other electrical connections and the springs in the three pronged connector as well. Please let me know how you get on. If ordering the bit I would advise (kids allowing) leave the trim off the inside, disconnect the two pronged connector and use the door wityout the luxury of the auto closer. If not it may stick again and you have to do it all again. Big Ed



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