Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Leaderboard

  1. Markham90

    Markham90

    Registered Member


    • Points

      4

    • Posts

      75


  2. bobkneale

    bobkneale

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      560


  3. t-spiritpete

    t-spiritpete

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      1,779


  4. Druid Boy

    Druid Boy

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      836


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/2013 in all areas

  1. If the bolt is a bit rough use an 8-sided socket rather than the standard multi-facetted one. The standard ones slip easy on worn heads, the 8-sided ones stay on - especially if you have to 'help' them on with a hammer....
    1 point
  2. Here's a good tip ..... always take the most awkward bolt/nut out first on any job otherwise when you take the easy ones out first (and that's human nature) the awkward one is even tighter ;) . Pete.
    1 point
  3. That's Rubbish lol. The turbo spool might be slow. But why... There's a reason. Possible sticking EGR valve.
    1 point
  4. Even more reasons for blanking it off,providing its safe to do so of course. Nothing wrong with your thread Mr.Fox,judging by the response. Lively discussion on technical issues is what car forums are all about. If it saves members money and helps our cars run better,then all the to the good I say.
    1 point
  5. It's involved taking fair few big off the avensis to get the egr valve. I would t take not off completely as there's rubber fluid lines that are pressurised attached. Also the black plastic rail that goes across covers the bolt that needs removing to access the manifold. This is hard to get to. You'll need to undo another bolt that hold the black rail in place to tease it out the way to access the bolt. Too too really is to not drop a bolt. Use cardboard or foil or something as a tray to catch then as y probably drop one especially when undoing the pipe. It's simple to do this but you'll think you've done then find another thing to undo! I have an auris I did my next door neighbours avensis. It helped having an extra pair of hands. Good luck and feel free to ask if you get stuck.
    1 point
  6. Hello, Here's a picture and info for the SCV but it's more than likely the EGr and manifold blocked as other replies say. Click on the picture to enlarge it. Pete.
    1 point
  7. That's the egr mate. It's a pig to get at on the avensis. Lots of things need undoing don't they! Clean the manifold and air intake, disconnect negative battery terminal and see if engine light goes off
    1 point
  8. Quick update really impressed with www.ecutesting.com sent my unit off on Monday had a call a few minutes ago. ECU definately faulty promised my unit should be back with me by Friday at the latest. Fingers crossed should have the rav up and running by weekend. Really impressed with them. Thanks guys will update when unit fitted back in the car. Ash
    1 point
  9. Top tip. Don't drop the bolt in the engine bay!!
    1 point
  10. thanks much for the info, i'm gonna try and clean and see if that works first
    1 point
  11. Are you sure? B mode forces the Prius to engage the petrol engine as a brake (engine braking) so there will less energy going into the HV battery via regenerative braking. There is a wizard web page all about B mode here. http://www.techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/b-mode.html Also, when the HV battery is full, the Prius will stop using regenerative braking and automatically engage engine braking.
    1 point
  12. Re my above comment regarding "Closing The Loop" on the "potential" Clutch Life Issue. It falls into line alongside the Toyota Lean Manufacturing Principles, Principle No 4 is "Quality at Source" that states: "To eliminate product defects, they must be discovered and corrected as soon as possible. Since workers are at the best position to discover a defect and to immediately fix it, they are assigned this responsibility. If a defect cannot be readily fixed, any worker can halt the entire line by pulling a cord (called Jidoka)" If there is "No Fault" and the quality regarding IQ clutch life standards are already in line with set "Conformance To Requirements" and as one of the "Seven Wastes" of Manufacturing is the journey towards "Zero Defect" then the record if need be should be and must be set straight. Regards, Bob.
    1 point
  13. You are a very knowable group of people regarding this type of info on a wide range of subjects ! I guess the "acid test" for me is always: 1) How many clutch failures / replacements have there actually been across all manual IQ models ? 2) When did they occur IE at what distance covered ? 3) Were these failures / replacements (if any) from the same model year / or manufacturing batch etc ? 4) What was the "true root cause" of failures / replacements (if any) ? I have now stopped personally concerning myself at all regarding this issue quite a while ago. I just now would like to "close the loop" so to speak regarding the issue and also try to get the Honest John review corrected with the correct facts if possible. This can then potentialy improve the reputation of the IQ. If statements made are unfounded they should be corrected. Many people believe everything they read on the internet without too much question, I guess that using a name like "Honest John" gives his review's more credibility to some people, and also perhaps himself ? Positive Regards, Bob.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership