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I decided to treat my self to a Scan Gauge II, only cost me £18 (mind you I did have £100 Amazon vouchers from work, and couldn't think what else to spend them on) First dilemma was where to mount it? or or Nah, none of the above. So I decided to..... Finished view When I get around to it I will make some infill pieces at the ends, to hopefully finish it off and hide the wire. It just slots in there nicely and only needed a strip of rubber to make it fit snugly. When it comes round to MOT/Service time it'll just pop out. I'd be interested to see where others have fitted them.

If you too suffer with a squeaky seat under your left thigh every time you depress the clutch to change gear then keep reading because I have finally found out what the problem is after months of head scratching and putting up with the noise. Some people on this forum say it is something to do with the rotating bush on the seat belt clip (where the seatbelt clicks in), the bit which allows the seat belt clip to move backwards and forwards. They say to lubricate the bolt at the bottom with WD-40 and it will resolve the squeaking issue. I suggest to try this before you try my solution incase this solves the issue. If you have tried the above and the seat still squeaks then in my case it was to do with the bar that allows you to move the seat backwards and forwards. So to test if this is the case with your model you first of all need to go and sit in the drivers seat. Secondly, reach down for the seat adjuster bar and instead of pulling it upwards like you would to adjust the seat push it downwards gently, let it back up, push it downwards gently (keep repeating). If you find this is making the squeak exactly like the one when you change gear then success you have found the problem! Next you need to grab a torch (i used my iphone camera light) and some grease or if you don't have any grease WD-40 will serve as a great temporary lubricator. Now go under the drivers seat and follow the seat adjuster bar towards the back of the seat on the left hand side and you will find a white bit of plastic. Now if you pull down on the bar to make the squeaking noise you will see that the movement on the seat adjuster is causing the plastic to rub against a bit of metal which is poking through the middle of the plastic.You now need to grease the bit of metal or spray the WD-40 over it and you will find that when pulling down on the seat adjuster the squeak is gone!! Also there is the same on the other side of the seat. I greased this too for good measure and I suggest you do the same. I have included a picture of the white plastic bit for your viewing. I really hope this helps you resolve your issue!

Interesting reply regarding towbar fittings for the IQ, and a range of prices ??? Please keep us posted on the type approval as having a towball would be very useful for me to use the IQ to move its own car trailer when at home or on a campsite. Parking up a trailer with a m/home takes more skill than I have got ;-) Rgds

17x7 means they are 17" diameter wheels and 7" wide between the tyre beads. An offset is measured in millimeters from the centre of the wheel width to the mounting face in the centre of the wheel. Something like 45 is normal and sometimes called ET for some reason My wheels are 17x7 ET42 Just by looking at the pictures though, they do look good. The 4 bolt holes on 100mm pitch is correct for the iQ but you will need spigot rings to space the centre of the wheel onto the hub. Most after market wheels have a big bore in the centre so you can then space them down to fit any car. My wheels have a centre bore of 75mm but the iQ hubs are only 54.1 diameter hubs so I need to find spacer rings to suit. I have also found that my new wheels need tapered seat nuts but the standard wheel nuts are fitted with a square face so they need replacing too. If you need new tyres on them though you could go for 205/45 17 which are identical rolling diameter as the standard wheels and are standard fit on new Mini's so plenty of choice out there. Craig.

I have a Scangauge mounted as in your first picture and it has been there for 4 or 5 years, working perfectly and the digital display is fully visible in all lighting conditions. My IQ has the TNS so it couldn't fit in the centre binnacle as yours, although that is where I had a Scangauge fitted to my Aygo when I had it, some years ago. I just unplug mine from the OBD socket and temporarily poke the plug and wire behind a footwell panel, so they can have access to the socket if they need it, when it is service time. I leave the display unit in place though it is easily removeable if required. I have found it to be a useful piece of kit. John

See my post on the cycle carrier thread

Good job

EOM wheels for a gen 7 TS and GT are 7J 17'' ET 38 5x100.

There no need to make a hole in the firewall for passing wiring through (small) as there is a provision for this. If you look carefuly at the wiring grommit thats fitted already for passing wiring cables through the firewall, there is a small teat on the grommets side. You just snip a small piece off the end of the 'teat' and push the wire through. Removing the instrument surround, which just pulls off and removing the 4 screws holding the instrument which has enough slack to park the panel on the top of the dash helps you find any cable you have pushed through the grommit..

Hi 2010 Avensis. should still be under warranty, take itbackto main dealers for them to sort out.