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Introduction As requested by a few members on this forum. This is our account on how we replaced the tailgate on my RAV4 to the version which has the spare wheel mounting option. Please understand that we are not mechanically trained, or qualified. So, any comments are welcome, especially if we have made any mistakes, missed anything important, or just require further info. Chapter Five – Attach replacement tailgate Tools required/used: Socket setTorx setCost this chapter : £95 Cost to date : £1387 Install rubber grommets into tailgate, in the area where the hinges will attach, by gently pushing them into place. Reunite tailgate to body. Insert the four bolts through the hinges and tighten up. WARNING THE TAILGATE IS STILL EXTREMELY HEAVY. Install check strap into tailgate, and connect restricting arm to vehicle body. Carefully insert loom through entry hole into tailgate, and attach flexible rubber loom protector to tailgate. Install bottom bump stop, by gently pushing and twisting. Install interior light buffer switch. Install support locator on the side of the tailgate using the two specific bolts. Install locking mechanism using the three specific torx bolts Install top bump stop, by gently pushing and twisting. Install wiper motor using the three specific bolts. Install rear window : £15 - Local windscreen company. There are three aesthetic rubber mouldings ( left/right side & bottom ) attached to the glass. These can easily be damaged when removing the window, so they were replaced with new ones. Moulding, back window Left : 75574-42020Moulding, back window Right : 75573-42040Moulding, back window Lower : 75575-42020Once rear window had been fitted, the rubber gasket for the wiper motor spindle was installed. Install washer jet Prepare for spoiler by installing the three plastic retainers. Spoiler retainer : 90467-09196 x3 Attach spoiler using the three specific bolts. Insert rubber grommet. Prepare for garnish panels by installing the top/bottom retainers Grommet : 90189-06235 x2 Prepare top right garnish panel Install the retainer clips. Garnish sub-assy yellow clip : 76827-42020 x1Garnish sub-assy blue clip : 75495-35010 x4Garnish sub-assy red clip : 75397-35010 x1Install the double-sided trim tape using a length in excess of what is required. This is so that the extra length of backing material can be used to aid removal after installing. Mount the tape just in slightly in from the edge and cut excess trim tape, but NOT the backing. Install top right garnish panel. Make sure that the garnish panel is underneath the lower rubber moulding on the rear window and the retaining clips are fully seated. Then gently remove the backing material from the trim tape Prepare top left garnish panel Install the retainer clips. Garnish sub-assy yellow clip : 76827-42020 x1Garnish sub-assy blue clip : 75495-35010 x4Garnish sub-assy red clip : 75397-35010 x1Install the double-sided trim tape using a length in excess of what is required. This is so that the extra length of backing material can be used to aid removal after installing. Mount the tape just in slightly in from the edge and cut excess trim tape, but NOT the backing. Install top left garnish panel. Make sure that the garnish panel is underneath the lower rubber moulding on the rear window and the retaining clips are fully seated. Then gently remove the backing material from the trim tape Install top garnish retaining bolt & washer. Bolts/washers from existing supplies x2 (picture shows top & bottom) Prepare bottom right garnish panel Installing the retainer clips. Garnish sub-assy blue clip : 75495-35010 x3Garnish sub-assy red clip : 75397-35010 x2Install the double-sided trim tape using a length in excess of what is required. This is so that the extra length of backing material can be used to aid removal after installing. Mount the tape just in slightly in from the edge and cut excess trim tape, but NOT the backing. Install bottom right garnish panel Make sure that the retaining clips are fully seated. Then gently remove the backing material from the trim tape Prepare bottom left garnish panel. Install the retainer clips. Garnish sub-assy blue clip : 75495-35010 x4Garnish sub-assy red clip : 75397-35010 x4Install the double-sided trim tape using a length in excess of what is required. This is so that the extra length of backing material can be used to aid removal after installing. Mount the tape just in slightly in from the edge and cut excess trim tape, but NOT the backing. Install bottom left garnish panel Make sure that the retaining clips are fully seated. Then gently remove the backing material from the trim tape. Install bottom garnish retaining bolt & washer. Bolts/washers from existing supplies x2 (picture shows top & bottom) Prepare for wheel carrier Install top/bottom locators. Wheel carrier top retainer : 90467-09077 x1Wheel carrier bottom retainer : 76835-52010 x1 Attach wheel carrier using the four specific bolts. Prepare for wheel cover back plate Install left/right retainers Wheel cover back plate retainer : 90189-06235 x2 Attach wheel cover back plate Bolts/washers from existing supplies x2 (picture shows left & right)Wheel cover back plate trim clip : 90467-06020-CO x1 Attach spare wheel onto carrier, retain using three wheel nuts. Toyota new. price inc. p&p £18. Wheel nut : 90942-01033 x3 Attach wheel cover front. Install rear wiper arm onto wiper motor spindle, using specific bolt, and attach cover. Install tailgate handle. Position the handle backing plate inside the tailgate, on the opposite side of where the external handle is placed. Insert the door opening activation bar attached to the backing plate, into the door lock. The handle backing plate is held in position, by two claws at one end, and a retainer. Slightly angle the handle backing plate to engage the claws onto the tailgate, and then swing into place to engage the retainer into its hole on the tailgate. Tighten the captive torx headed screw on the handle backing plate, into the retainer. Position the two handle gaskets on the outside of the tailgate. From within the tailgate, hold the door opening activation arm, so as to allow it to engage with the outer handle leg. The opening activation arm is kept tensioned with a spring, so as to always pull the outer handle into the closed position. Then put the outer handle legs, through the two holes in the tailgate. When flush with the gaskets, gentle push the handle towards the middle of the tailgate. This is so that the handle engages with the opening activation arm, and the pivot bar on the handle backing plate. The smaller part of the outer handle can now be put into position. Tighten the captive torx headed screw on the handle backing plate into it. The torx screw is accessed from the side of the tailgate. Push grommet into access hole when finished. Install loom fully and connect to. High level brake lightWasher jetHeated rear windowEarth pointRelayWiper motorTailgate locking mechanismTailgate handle (if smart key system) Install sub-woofer blank plate Used 4 rivets from existing supplies.Install plastic condensation cover Install trim panels Install external chrome badges. Toyota new. price inc. p&p £62. Logo : 75471-42050Toyota : 75441-42050RAV4 : 75431-42030XTR : GBNGA-5E341 Well that's all folks... thanks for following.

I was gutted when my 28 year old 130,000 mile Mercedes 123 needed its discs replacing for the first time, I decided to replace the discs calipers and pads. Pads were £10, Discs £35 a pair and Calipers, genuine, were £45 each. How much are they on an IQ with "running in" mileage on?

Not always Chris..... .....where's my flippin' keys??!!!

Jim, the self parking system, i.e. the switch arrangement which is part of the wiper motor, not the control stalk, sounds as though it is not working properly on Steven's RAV. I've not taken a modern one to pieces but the old "Lucas" motors had an integral brass track from which the motor picked up it's power after the power fed through the stalk switch moved it away from the "park" position. I don't think that the linkage could cause the problem that Steven describes, it sounds as though it is electrical and, unless there is a connector problem, will probably involve a new wiper motor.

Welcome to you both :) Bit of a stepdown in performance from a Seat Leon FR though ! Hope you enjoy the economy & cheap insurance.

I've got a silver auris aswell and use autoglym polish and then dodo juice 'diamond white' hard wax. Gives a great finish.

nope, mind is Japan version

They also don't seem to have this retest fee if taken away for repairs and then retested later - Council failed my Renault Master van on the handbrake being 1% below required efficiency and when I went back a few days later with it adjusted, got a free retest. I'm sure garages would have charged at least 50% of the MOT fee?If taken away I believe it has to be retested by the end of the next working day for a free retest.David That's what I thought too and asked them how much when I took it back and they said nothing!

Craig, Why would changing 40% worn pads stop my discs ending up like this? they have not been gouged by pads worn down to the metal they have RUSTED like this. Yes the car was serviced less than 4000 miles ago by the dealer I bought it from as an approved used Toyota, it was serviced when I bought it last October at 15,000 miles and I had it serviced in April at 25175 miles and visual safety report/estimate stated rear pads 30% worn, disks pitting although they were not as bad as this then. Not all disks rust it depends on the material they are made from but to have disks rust to this extent in 3 years is unaceptable, I had a Ford escort for 14 years 108,000 miles which went to the breakers with its original unrusted disks, I had a Ford Puma changed the disks after 9 years 68,000 miles through wear not rust pitted friction area. If this is not a Toyota issue why is there a Toyota service bulletin showing 6 pictures of rusty disks and which oned should be changed? Sweet-Dentist No 1.0 Manual IQ1111 Think I have answered your questions except the car is in regular use probably 6 days out of seven.

take mine to council depot, no axe to grind, not like the stealers B-A

Could the Ka be the least stolen car coz it looks like Darth Vader's helmet......?

It is a disgrace that there hasn't been a recall on this! THIS IS A FIRST CLASS SAFETY ISSUE! A CAR THAT CAN STALL AT JUNCTIONS? Are you f!*cking kidding me Toyota? In 2013? What should happen? The first dead person who won't be able to tell why he/she crossed the junction at a slow speed before being run over by a speeding bus? listen Toyota. You have this program called Kaizen. Which is your customer care program: make things better. Make this better NOW! You have a recall for 10 millions of cars because some little button can fall off but you don't do any **** about this life dangerous safety issue? How does one spell class action? This should be a sticky thread!

I have this problem. At my first visit I was told the "all white Aygos have the same problem" excuse. I told them on the next visit and someone inspected it, they then offered to paint it with anti-stone chip paint. That is also coming off but not as badly.

In all cases on here Toyota have honoured the bulletin they issued for the EGR. Mine has been changed. in fact, i was one of the first to source the bulletin number as I have a good rapport with them.I have seen the bulletin as they showed it to me and it describes the symptoms clearly. All of which puts you in a possible dangerous position when driving the car. I would suggest you do get Solicitors involved, not only in getting the dealer to honour the warranty but to make them aware the car was not fit for purpose when it was sold to you, and having been diagnosed by the Manufacturer of the Valve that it is in deed faulty, rendering the car potentially dangerous to drive, (hence their bulletin). Your Solicitor should be requesting a written assurance from the dealer, that the defective Valve does not render the car dangerous to drive and put their name to it, should you get involved in a accident which later transpires to be due to the faulty Valve. David

Just to add a bit more to this. There is a problem where the ECU doesnt map properly when the battery has been discharged. When i was doing a lot of electronic work on my car i noticed that often when re connecting the battery, i would have the same symptoms as you. Sometimes the rev's would drop to about 350 for 10 sec's or more causing the passenger seat to vibrate a fair bit , usually when pulling up to stop at lights etc. i have had it it cut out too. The cure was to disconnect the battery for over 35mins then re-connect firmly not arcing and sparking.put the terminal on quick and hold it whilst doing up the nut. Turn the ignition on fully but don't start it yet. Wait for 5 mins then start and try. My guess if you don't have EGR issue this will cure it. One other thing is if you have satnav ( TNS 510) take out the SD card first as disconnecting and re- connecting the battery can cause corruption on the SD card. My guess is at some point the battery had gone very flat on the forecourt and it has been either charged or changed. try this first. Its easy and may well have good results David