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Second hand but looked new (£45 :) ) with no rusting from a 2004 model. New would have been £300+ if I remember correctly and my insurance glass excess didn't cover the sunroof so no cricket ball damage options either. Just press the slide-back switch enough to get the sunroof away from the front frame, then it's just four torx screws to remove before lifting out. TIP: I drew around the four screws with permanent pen before unscrewing so that it made it easier to align when refitting. When i had the seal "sealed" properly by a windscreen company they removed and refitted the sunroof. Cheers, Lee

Mrs 'D' doesn't do automatics ! Otherwise it would have been.

Hello Olisaemeka - welcome to TOC.

Very nice David

The bulletin from Toyota lists a manufacturing implementation date of June 2010 unfortunately this is a build date not a registration date so it is possible your car was built before the repair was included on the production line. If you have a chassis number PM and I can check the build date.

Hi Ainsley, Common problem with the 4.2 sunroofs. That is where my original sunroof rusted and where i finally found out how the water was leaking through into the headliner and dripping through the sunglass holder. It leaks though between the seal and the glass and then misses the drip tray. I replaced my sunroof for one that wasn't rusting and had a windscreen company properly bond the seal to the glass. Not had a problem since. :) On my first sunroof I delayed it a while by removing the rust as best i could, treating and painting but it didn't take long before it was rusted through again. Make sure it is sealed properly before getting it sprayed then all should be good!! Cheers, Lee

This viscosity thing seems to go back to the days when thick oil was used for its gap filling properties. You have to remember that you cannot compress a fluid so there is no chance of metal to metal contact whatever viscosity is used. All the newer engines fall into the "optimal drive" category which have been refined to give better fuel consumption. In this case the lower viscosity offers lower drag and trust me, with the auto box, lovely as it is, you need all the help you can get. The 150 will run quite nicely on 5W/30 C2 ESP and vice verca on the 180. The 0W/30 probably costs more than it saves in fuel but I prefer to use what is used in the factory.