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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/01/2014 in all areas

  1. Think I would speak to his local trading standard before alerting the seller - they may already have him 'on the books'. I'd certainly want their advice as to how best to approach the situation. Whatever you do, put everything in writing and send by recorded delivery/signed for method.
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  2. Sounds like you're referring to the 'instantaneous fuel consumption' reading, which will fluctuate, and sometimes show quite dramatic changes. It was the same with my 2006 Corolla, my 2009 Auris and my current 2012 Auris. Try changing the display to 'average fuel consumption', which will show a more constant figure
    1 point
  3. Can I say a huge Thankyou for the help. I think I'm going to get it into toyota and take in a sheet with your advice and potential issues I want them to check and diagnose the problem and cost of rectifying. If the tyres are safe and the wheels are then I'll stick with them. As long as I don't have wrong mix of run flat and normal tyres , I can investigate an aftermarket tpms unit to be installed. The knocking is the worrying part.
    1 point
  4. Nice one David - at least that is one cost ( wrong wheels ) that Mat won't have. Do the tyre valves on Mat's photos look like the original Toyota TPMS units? Sorry Phillip - you answered the question as I posted. Thought transference or what
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  5. From the picture above, all four wheels appear to have normal valves - the Toyota TPMS ones have a metallic stem rather than rubber as shown. That would explain why the TPMS warning light is 'on' - it believes that there is no pressure in any of the tyres! The rims themselves look to be the standard 18" rims for a T180 / SR180 so they should fit the hub correctly (bar previous damage etc.). I'd have expected to see silver coloured studs (rather than black) and one locking wheel stud on each wheel (as I had on my SR180) though what you have could have been standard at that time. So: There's nothing obviously wrong with your rims or tyres - though you probably want 'better' rubber when it's time for a change.There's nothing much a standard tyre depot can do about the TPMS situation. Your choices are to go to Mr T to get the TPMS valves reinstated (new valves plus coding into the ECU), 'cut' the 'pink wire' or put up with the warning light.Neither of which has any obvious bearing on the problem you originally reported ...
    1 point
  6. Those are the correct wheel pattern for the car Mat
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  7. I replaced blown-off ETCS fuse 10A, and it worked like a champ. Thank you!
    1 point
  8. We can safely say that you are not a Freelander fan then.LOL Update: Picked the RAV this morning from Mr T with the new alternator £434 fitted.Compare this with £420 quoted for just the alternator without fitting from Halfords. More bad news water pump on its way out so will have to wait until 100 000 miles service to fit it , in about 3 months another £400 for pump and cam belt on top of the service.If you average all the cost over the car's 8+ yr life doing approx 12000 annualy its not too bad Every time our 4.2 auto went in for service with Mr.T from about its 4th birthday, it got an advisory about the water pump "weeping" and possibly needing imminent replacement. It only got replaced at 9 years old when the serpentine belt broke and needed replacing - it made sense to do the pump then as a precautionary measure which would have been done even if it hadn't been "weeping" for the previous 5 years, seeing as the belt was off anyway. And yes, I must admit to despising the green oval's products with a vengeance. The freeloader was probably the single greatest pile of excrement I'd ever had the misfortune to get involved with. The list of its failings would fill a couple of A4 pages culminating with finally rendering it 2WD after having to disconnect the propshaft rather than pay a king's ransom for the repairs needed to the transfer box. I always find it highly amusing when the various Brtitish motor mags fawn over these pieces of unabridged shoite. Other than that though, I'm sure they're fine.
    1 point
  9. Here information about the sparkplugs.... Should not be hard.. IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG > COMPONENTS > Preparation EQUIPMENT Ohmmeter Torque wrench Heater Thermometer Spark plug cleaner Voltmeter Spark plug wrench Vacuum pump Protective tape RECOMMENDED TOOLS 09011-3C220 Wrench,Spark Plug 14mm 09012-2C510 Deep Socket Wrench 19mm 09082-00040 TOYOTA Electrical Tester (09083-00150) Test Lead Set
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  10. My Rav4 has now covered 128'000 miles, it's let me down ( actually stopped going ) just once in almost 8 years,and 100'000 of the miles I've done in it.. Yes , its " almost " stopped a few times, DMF failed but did so just as I reached the garage to get fixed, a pipe on the VSV split ( this was the one time it actually stopped the vehicle from working). Then just this year , my starter played up & turbo blew, but with both issues I managed to limp to the dealership to get fixed, so the Rav was still going. It still drives really nicely,and i'm proud to own such a lovely design as the 4.2 is.
    1 point
  11. SAE75W-90, API GL-4 or GL-5 I changed mine and used fully synthetic I used Castrol SMS-X..
    1 point
  12. Or making a phone call or faffing around looking for a CD in the glove box.......Yep no more dangerous than turning the wipers on I can see that Kingo
    1 point
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