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Hi all Just found out that my 7 year and 3 month old Rav4 has a blown head gasket. Have read some of the multiple posts on this forum on the subject since this revelation occourred. Mr T does not seem to want to help, has anyone in this situation had any joy? Worried

Just a quick update. i passed my RoSPA Advanced Driving test on Wednesday. Obtaining a Gold. with very positive coments on my driving and the car. I think i was the examiners first candidate in a Hybrid. Thanks again to all who replied. Mike

Reinstalling Glasses 12-21-13 Daddy's Helper Gabito Cleaning The Dash before the glass re-installation.

As regards the service history , it shows what type of service it is (intermediate, full, etc), provides a reference number (not sure what that relates to), has a space for notes - where presumably advisories and the like could be recorded -, etc. Really I see it more of a reminder tool, and not a replacement for a proper service history with receipts in support of work done, etc.

I clearly need to put you in my Yaris for a few days, that'd calm you down by scaring the **** out of you when you tried that on a corner Body roll and understeeeeeeeeeer! But yeah, the anti-skid light should be a big clue you are going too fast! You could make it better by getting stickier tyres, but I would lean more toward the slowing down option personally !

It has to be done, times are hard for most and these older Rav's are simple to do mechanical work on yourself without any modern computer expensive diagnostics to go through every time you need to replace a part, its probably one of the last generation of vehicles you can still fettle yourself

As above, you are overloading the tyres, they are losing grip and the car is taking control of the situation for you by adjusting your braking. For cornering, as the old saying goes 'Slow in, fast out. Fast in, s**t out'. Slow down a bit eh?

Here is the fitting instructions for the Toyota kit. Same applies to whatever springs you buy though so still applicable to the Eibach springs. Hardest thing for me was separating the steering arm ball joint taper from the upright. I had a proper ball joint splitter that operates with a bolt as a lever and managed to break the legs on it just as the ball joint gave. You can get tapered chisel type ball joint tools but these tend to destroy the rubber boot so be careful. Once done you should get the camber and tracking checked as loosening the bolts allows camber adjustment. Luckily I have a camber gauge at home as well as tracking gauges. Craig. AIM 001 470-0_IQ Lowering Springs.pdf

Given the age of the car it is reasonable to expect a build up of corrosion in the piston bore. You can pump the piston all the way out then clamp the flexihose to reduce fluid loss, remove the caliper from the car and set about cleaning all of the corrosion off the bore and piston (you will need to get it all off) and then refit the seals and dust covers etc and piston. Generally the exisiting seals are fine for re-use even though loads of people will tell you to replace them. If they aren't damaged or out of shape they will still do the job. You will need rubber/red grease to apply to the seals etc when reassembling the calipers (protects the rubber and helps to prevent future corrosion). New brake fluid is a good thing - you will probably renew it just by topping it up whilst bleeding it through thoroughly. And if you do one side you should do the other as well to balance the performance up. Calipers are not overly complicated but we are generally cautious of opening them up. The other option is to buy a new caliper. Garages replace calipers because it is not cost effective for them to overhaul them. It is cost effective for us to do at home though.

More likely that the sliders are seized thus pushing only one pad against the disc, rather than "floating" such that both pads push. Make sure you free the sliders off while fitting the new pads.

Fortuneately my IQ is the last car I will own, When it's out of warranty it will go and I will stop driving. So I won't need another, which solves the problem as there is no other car I would now consider buying. I hope it lasts longer than me!

Number one place for this probelm is the door rubbers... they can leak.. Engine compartement is not first t look at.. Succes...

Had my Yaris HSD since late October - winter mpg per tankful (calculated by me, not the car!) was in the 60-63 range, with the warmer temperatures it's 70+ I just leave it in "normal" mode and drive it like I would any car - I've always anticipated traffic and the likes but I also have a reasonably heavy right foot when pulling away from lights... I mostly drive in the London area, in usually fairly flowing traffic on a mix of 30/40/50 mph roads. As already mentioned, the first couple of miles in winter are really not that great and short trips are not good for fuel consumption. Plus your car needs running in, mpg will improve after that. The biggest difference for me came when I worked out exactly how much to press on the pedal to maintain speed whilst staying on electric power - there's a sweet spot - so a smidgen more and the petrol engine kicks in, a smidgen less and you're losing speed.