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  1. Grumpy Cabbie

    Grumpy Cabbie

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    craggle

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  4. avensisd4d786

    avensisd4d786

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/16/2015 in all areas

  1. If I needed another one I'd be looking for an Aston Cygnet at a reasonable price. :) Craig.
    2 points
  2. Did you guys keep your foot on the accelerator until the fans kicked in, or did you rev then idle then rev. Just keep your foot on the accelerator at about 2000 rpm until the fans kick in yes... and which cap did you remove there are two on my coolant Bootle, there is the round one with the yellow warning sticker and there is the air bleed cap which is more like a grommet. Just keep squeezing the top hose as the car heats and also turn the ROUND cap to release some pressure whilst your doing this,be careful not to scold yourself so maybe have a rag handy and does anyone what degrees does the fan kicks in? I think the fans kick in around 92 to 95 degrees although not entirely sure I have climate control in my car so am I right putting it to 'HIGH' and on full fan blow out speed. Yes Climate set to high and on full heat setting ,leave the blower off, as this will dissipate heat and you want the system to heat rapidly to expel any trapped air..good luck with it :D
    1 point
  3. I don't know about the i30 but to me Hyundai and Kia are two sides of the same coin. They gave me a newish Kia Cee'd as a courtesy car when my old Auris was in for repair and first impressions were good, body style definitely a bit copy-cat but the trim looked OK and it seemed well enough appointed. It started up and drove off OK but later on when I had to open it up to climb a long steep hill I was surprised at just how rough it was. The engine roared, the transmission vibrated and there was a lot of boom inside it. You see them talking about the NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness) factor in road tests and this thing had it in spades, just like an old Daewoo. This was a few years ago so I don't know what the current versions are like..
    1 point
  4. Mk1's used 175/65R14 Does it actually make any difference? My car also came with alloys as standard, and changing to steel wheels counted as a deviation in spec and actually RAISED my premium!
    1 point
  5. Cool, glad it all went smoothly .
    1 point
  6. 104k . think I might have sorted it .. Air box wasn't clipped on filter seal properly . will keep u all informed .. Thanx for the replies .
    1 point
  7. Just my thoughts on things ive heard about. Aircon pulley Alternator one way clutch if it has one? Heat shield rattle. Airbox pipe related noises. Bonnet stay not clipped in lol
    1 point
  8. Re: previous comments about the EV and ECO buttons on the Yaris Even based on my own short life so far with our Yaris Hybrid, I have quickly found that both of these buttons are pretty much redundant additions to the car that don't add any useful functionality for normal driving at all...
    1 point
  9. Yeah there's a difference between forcing it into EV mode (which is almost impossible anyway as it'll just disable it once you try to accelerate or go over 30mph), and driving in a way which allows the car to go into EV mode itself more. I've just got 80mpg from the car putting itself into EV mode quite a lot but with the battery still at almost full. If it can do it, then it's fine. I don't think anyone actually forces it into EV mode really. I've tried and it's always just said it's unavailable due to excessive speed or something.
    1 point
  10. Yes it was an option and something I seriously considered. Over 2 years (balance of warranty) the loan to pay the balloon payment would have cost me more per month to buy a 3 year old car than a new car. I think I've done my fair share of keeping cars until they drop !!! I am weak - The attraction of something bright and shiny was too much I'm afraid.
    1 point
  11. And physics disagrees. You would probably get more if you left the car to itself. Every time the HV battery is discharged it has to be topped up again - usually by the engine and the engine burns fuel. I'm not an engineer but there are Prius engineers who helped design the car on the US Priuschat forum who have shown graphs and stats and figures showing what you said is not entirely correct. Every change from engine to battery to engine and back suffers a loss, this loss eventually equates to a loss of economy. I originally thought like you and was convinced my economy was good enough. But when I let the car up to itself (all the time) the average went up. But it's your car and if you're happy then cool.
    1 point
  12. I like the work with the cheapest/free first. is there any engine warning lights? normally when the dmf is rattling its a metallic noise, it will rattle on idle and tone will change if the pedal is depressed. another point if its the DMF you should be able to hear the noise coming from the box. Yes Konrad is right a video would be helpful.
    1 point
  13. Why do people think this is what happens in a hybrid? It's not a problem.Can you take one for a test drive? I think the assumptions about power occur because the majority of motoring press seem to enjoy describing the "CVT" powertrain as something which makes a great deal of noise without the corresponding thrust of acceleration. I could obviously test drive one, and this is something I would look to do, but in my opinion most test drives do not compare to having lived with a vehicle for an extended period and experienced enough of these scenarios to make an informed opinion. Thanks
    1 point
  14. Actually it is true, the engine is having to work harder to needlessly charge the HV battery (thus using more fuel), something it wouldn't have needed to do if you'd just let the car run normally in the first place as it'd potentially have recharged the battery through regen breaking etc.
    1 point
  15. is it definitely the engine? maybe get someone to rev whilst you have a listen under the bonnet. there is a common rattle with the air intake pipe, mentioned in the topic below. http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/157790-harmonic-hum-through-air-box;-2007-diesel-20l/
    1 point
  16. Just had a weekend out with my OH in her hybrid Yaris. I got to have a go and it is very nice to drive but, it isn't a Prius. The main diffence I found was the Yaris is an ordinary automatic Yaris with a hybrid engine. There is like a veneer over the hybrid stuff so you don't notice it. A lot of the stats and stuff you get to see and play with in a Prius are hidden away. Even the Hybrid joystick has been replaced with an automatic shift stick. And, the Yaris's ECO mode is more like the Prius's normal mode. We found that driving it like a normal automatic Yaris, over the weekend the average mpg was around 50. The old automatic Yaris would have been around 38. So an improvement, but my Prius would have been around 58.
    1 point
  17. What heat setting do you use? I've found 20c keeps the car comfortable yet keeps the engine off. Even switching to 20.5 kicks the engine on more frequently, and 22c really does. I'm not familiar with the Yaris HSD, but is there an option for average speed along with average mpg? I used to post that on some of my fuelly reports and it could be as low as 12 mph. That helped answer the 44 mpg tank average that I'd sometimes get. Or are you just lead footed? Saying that, you're still about 2,500 miles and the car will still be finding it's feet.
    1 point
  18. I sometime park next to a T-Spirit at the beach car park, and the overall size at the edge of the tyre looks identical to me, just mine has a wider black bit and narrower silver bit. Personally, I don't give a hoot what it looks like, I just want the best balance between safety, longevity, replacements costs, comfort and noise levels.
    1 point
  19. Hi Ivan Glad to see your car is progressing well. I am pleased you liked the link, do they make quality cars in your country, it might be worth your applying? Cheers Mike.
    1 point
  20. As well as the differences on CO2 and mpg quoted for the T3 and the T4/Spirit Prius, the drag coefficient goes up from 0.25 to 0.27. Whilst it's possible extra equipment may weigh slightly more, the only external difference is the wheel/tyres, which I think are wider with the 17" ones, hence increased frontal area. On the Gen 3 Prius, heaven knows how many millions were spent getting the CD (drag factor) down from 0.26 on the Gen 2 to 0.25 on the T3 (15" wheels). Toyota claimed at the launch that the Gen 3 had the highest amount of wind tunnel testing of any Toyota in history. Then they fitted 17" wheels to the T4 and T-Spirit, which lifted the CD back to 0.27 - WORSE than the Gen 2 !!! - with the consequent hit on mpg, CO2, comfort and spend on tyres for owners!
    1 point
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