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So next up was to sort the suspension out... I managed to find some used spax springs and shocks going for a good price so i snapped them up. They made a massive difference to the look and feel of the car. Also fitted my new number plates at the same time. So this is how the car is sitting at the moment.

It's got 5w40 fully synthetic in it at the moment. Because of the way I do miles (95% at high speed) we thought it better to have a 40 than a 30. Plenty to look into here, thanks Konrad.

Daniel, what type and grade of oil are you using? Check the engine breather system and possible oil leaks around the engine. Your engine has an oil cooler. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/avensis/st220r-almekw/3_273540_049_/tool-engine-fuel/1603_radiator-water-outlet/2#16491 http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/avensis/st220r-almekw/3_273540_049_/tool-engine-fuel/1503_engine-oil-cooler http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/avensis/st220r-almekw/3_273540_049_/tool-engine-fuel/1201_ventilation-hose Oil leaks can be difficult to find. Konrad

i would have a look at your door lock motors as i feel one of them is faulty ,all locks need to give the central door locking system a lock signal and if one of the motors is giving an unlock signal then they will all unlock. to isolate a motor disconnect the multi plug from the door lock, isolate 1 lock then try locking if it locks great if not re connect the plug and go to another door until you find the one thats faulty.

Mine has the new shocks fitted. The knocking noise is still there, though a lot quieter. The replacement shocks probably come from the same factory, which is still manufacturing them in the same way, with the same fault, surely? They'll have to sort that production process out before we see this resolved, I would think...

Thks Konrad .. Im having the wheel bearings done this week with this steering joint replacement (whatever it is) and 2 new brake discs but like most garages they dont tell you the breakdown until you get the bill (all I know is a rough figure of £1100) but then what choice have I got when Im not mechanical. They originally quoted me £1500 + £2200 - £3700 !!!! with Toyota parts) Id love to change all 4 bearings and the items you mention and those shown in the pictures to know I have covered all bases but I cannot afford that. Maybe I can try and have a go myself but if I get stuck - Im stuck as I need the car for work most days. I know I can buy the parts thru factors but the labour is a killer for us all and I guess one feels committed after they have spent so much time checking and testing the car as I would have to go find someone else who would do the work and trust them. Ill let you know how the car is when I get it back sometime during the week. At least Ive got a loan car. Derek

Hi I gotta agree with Ken, is it posible to pull the metal flexi pipe up through the rubber 'bobbin' where it joins the stub axle so shortening the lower part and having a longer top part where i presume it won't rub on anything? Mike.

I am no expert (my car fixing days are long gone) but does that brake line seem rather long? It seems very close to the rubber gator to my mind (this could be how the photo's are taken,no disrespect intended).

Personally I'd try cleaning it up with a wire brush first and see how bad it is. If it's mostly surface rust then smearing a little grease on it after the clean-up should slow down it's re-appearance.

Be worth seeing if a UK breakers has one, I suspect you can us a used one and will just need to mileage ODO witten to it by a mileage correction firm.

Swapped it for a £10 pump off ebay and it works a treat. I removed wheel lining and undid a couple of screws on the bumper to prize the bumper (essential) away from the washer bottle. Not sure whether full or even partial removal of the wheel arch liner was strictly neccesary, and don't think complete removal of the bumper is essential. The pump needed a firm prizing with use of a screw driver to pop out of its groove. Much better than £160 odd at the dealers. Thank you for your advice.

It more than likely catches when you go over some uneven roads or bumps, it doesn't take much to rub the outer layer off, mine on the passenger side on my celica has been catching on the wire for the abs sensor and has started to rub through, I have put some duct tape over mine to see if it still catches, should be fine to use as it's only a outside coating, there should be an inside tube, the stainless protects that and then the outer layer. Just keep an eye on it, see if the hose can be adjusted, it looks like it might need twisting either forwards or backwards to bend it out of the way, but you will probably have to undo one side of the hose to do it and then re bleed. Iif it catches anymore then eventually it could rub through causing you to leak brake fluid and losing your brakes, only a chance doesn't mean to say it will.

Do you have any silicon spray? If so squirt a small amount in the glass run at the top vertical, as also this can cause the anti trapping to activate over time when it is dry, any resistance and it activate it. ;)

I've just stumbled upon this thread and have read through with interest. I have a '64 plate X-Clusive and it's starting has always been just a little slower than I've experienced with previous Aygo's (Fire, Black, and Blue), but last week it refused to start on two occasions one evening. The starter span frantically, but it didn't catch. After a couple of experiments I came to the conclusion that it was either an immobiliser issue (on one occasion I'd left the key in the ignition so that the lights remained on whilst dropping my kids at a scout hike) or vapourised fuel (on both occasions the problem manifested itself when restarting after a short stop). Like the OP, it's been OK since so I've not been to the dealer to discuss.

Just to put your mind at rest, I am a professional. I am a qualified electrical and mechanical engineer, with a Masters in electrical and mechanical engineering. I'm also registered with IMechE and the IET as a CEng. Airbags are generally set on the side of caution, therefore they will go off even if there is not much damage to the car to ensure the safety of the occupants. I could show you pictures of the car if you like, however there is no structural damage to the car, all metal work is straight and everything aligns correctly. One reason I am completing the repairs myself and there will be professional bodyshops involved to spray the new bumper, is that I like to know everything has been complete correctly to the right standard and If I do work myself I know it has been. However, thank you for your concern and can understand in some case, some people should not attempt these repairs, if they have no underpinning knowledge or competence