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Final update I hope! The garage replaced the 12v battery under warranty as it failed their tests; might have been a duff battery from the outset, but undoubtedly the 4 times it went flat will have finished it off. Hopefully this will solve all of the non-starting issues we've been having. Thanks for all the assistance!

I decided to tackle my 2003 D4D EGR valve today, after my MPG has dropped from 55MPG to about 45MPG over the last month or so. I wouldn't say i've noticed a drop in power, as there's never really been any to start with. After trying a few remedies (checking tyre pressures, new air filter, fuel system cleaner) I decided to go for it as nothing made a difference, after reading a few posts on here. There are a few posts about the EGR, and one is very good but is for the later engine (mine is the gutless 116BHP 2.0 D) I decided to try and sort it today and it's much more fiddly than the newer EGR valve location. Anyway, I hope the piccies are of some help to someone, they would have helped me. The 1st pic shows the EGR valve location when viewed from the passenger side, with the engine cover and airbox removed. This 2nd pic is with the plastic engine cover removed and airbox hose, cover and filter removed. By taking the airbox out access was possible. After taking the air filter cover and air filter out, 3 bolts are exposed (12mm Heads) undo these and remove the airbox. To remove the EGR itself, there are two 12mm nuts and one 12mm bolt holding it on. There are also 2 coolant pipes which I removed (held on by hose clips) which just seem to be for cooling the EGR valve, as one is an input to the housing and the other is the output. Some water came out, so try and keep the hose as high as you can or bung the hose. The 2 retaining nuts are either side of the EGR valve and the bolt is at the bottom and you'll have to feel for it, as it's not visible from above. There is also an electrical connector, which operates the valve. I've pictured the EGR valve removed and the hole it left, for clarity. To be honest, although it was fairly dirty inside, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be but (seeing as the car now has 136000 miles on it) I cleaned the EGR using brake cleaner and a toothbrush and manually exercised the valve. I put it all back together and whilst I was at it decided to clean the MAF sensor with alchohol cleaner spray. Anyway i've got a few more pictures if anyone needs any more detail. I'll report back when i've drove the car next week, to see if it's any better. If anything i've written doesn't make sense, please feel free to correct me. Sorry to go on but hopefully this will help someone, as there doesn't seem to be much info about the earlier D4d EGR valves.

Yaris 1999 > 2004 Service Manuals Yaris 1999 > 2001: http://rapidshare.com/files/227057993/yaris_1999.rar Yaris 2001>: http://rapidshare.com/files/227061390/yaris_2001.rar Yaris 2005> Service Manuals Yaris 2005> Part 1: http://rapidshare.com/files/227074017/Yari...ual_Part_01.rar Yaris 2005> Part 2: http://rapidshare.com/files/227082738/Yari...ual_Part_02.rar Yaris 2005> Part 3: http://rapidshare.com/files/227082739/Yari...ual_Part_03.rar You will need winrar to extract the files and adobe reader to view pdf. Both can be downloaded free off the internet.

Most Toyota dealers are currently offering the Toyota extended warranty under a 'two years for the price of one offer'.

Problem solved Mike! I investigated the issue during the evening and found out that the "bobbin" was indeed not permanently fitted like on the original Toyota hoses. Will replace the front lines when I'll have the time as they are a bit worn, especially the one on the right hand side. On the left there was a spot where dirt was rubbed off of the line but the line itself was in quite a good condition. Not in a hurry anymore though as everything is fine for now and no rubbing anymore :) Big thanks!

for me it would depend on the quote to fix, end of the day its up to you. what's the mileage? I take it you will be buying another Toyota?

Found the park brake/DRL thing in the manual which I read before taking delivery of the car. I use it often if parked in READY, even in daylight, just need to power off and on again with the park brake set.

Hi Speed_Chaser. The 'bobbin', i doubt is a very tight fit around the hose and i just wondered if you slackened the fixing bolt you'd be able to pull it through say 5cm, worth a try and might save you some money and an extra job to do on your car. Regards Mike.

Mike, thanks for your understanding and kind words! Yeah it's nice to do some mods and enjoy the results, but the decisions aren't always wise unfortunately. It's hard to predict everything. Brake lines were replaced during the brake disc and brake pad upgrade, it was interesting to compare stock setup against the upgraded one. But yeah, I didn't feel any difference at all. Less brake dust from pads, and that's all. Now this situation is getting really frustrating as I feel it was not only useless but also expensive mod as it has to be reversed now. I am considering to get the stock lines back for sure. At least the front ones as rears doesn't seem to do any harm in there. The original ones were sent to be copied when I was upgrading them, don't know what went wrong. Not really keen on replacing drive shaft anymore because it really is an expensive procedure. On top of that I spent couple of hours on getting the oil off of my wheel and other parts which are close to the drive shaft. Thanks for all your help and support guys. Very useful input from all of you!

Is this why Toyota only sold 2,800 Prii last year? The competition has hotted up and the Prius just a tad too expensive?

Hi I gotta agree with Ken, is it posible to pull the metal flexi pipe up through the rubber 'bobbin' where it joins the stub axle so shortening the lower part and having a longer top part where i presume it won't rub on anything? Mike.

I am no expert (my car fixing days are long gone) but does that brake line seem rather long? It seems very close to the rubber gator to my mind (this could be how the photo's are taken,no disrespect intended).

It more than likely catches when you go over some uneven roads or bumps, it doesn't take much to rub the outer layer off, mine on the passenger side on my celica has been catching on the wire for the abs sensor and has started to rub through, I have put some duct tape over mine to see if it still catches, should be fine to use as it's only a outside coating, there should be an inside tube, the stainless protects that and then the outer layer. Just keep an eye on it, see if the hose can be adjusted, it looks like it might need twisting either forwards or backwards to bend it out of the way, but you will probably have to undo one side of the hose to do it and then re bleed. Iif it catches anymore then eventually it could rub through causing you to leak brake fluid and losing your brakes, only a chance doesn't mean to say it will.