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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/2015 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    thanks for that 56.1 average not bad for 1.33
  2. 1 point
    Just had a trip to Liverpool got 337 miles before filling up and still only took 25 litres average 61.3 not badge should get a few more miles from those 7 litres left in the bottom of the tank.
  3. 1 point
    Rear brakes need doing, on such a low mileage hybrid?? What the..... Most hybrids do 100k miles to a set of front pads, for the rears to need doing already there is either something wrong or they're a rip off merchant.
  4. 1 point
    Another cause of your issue could well be worn contacts inside the starter motor. These would exhibit the same fault as you describe. One tell tale way to know if it is them is when it is playing up to carefully listen when you turn the key for a relay clicking. If you hear the click, this would suggest that the key part is working and energising the starter correctly, hence an issue with the starter. Do a search on google for "worn toyota starter contacts". There's plenty of info about - even videos on youtube. A loose/sloppy key should not cause the issue you are experiencing. If you are able to turn the key, then that should be enough to activate the switch behind the cylinder. The switch could be faulty, there are stories on here of that. However, I would expect it to exhibit other symptoms such as radio not coming on when at ACC and dash not lighting up when turned to ON. It's quite easy to remove the ignition barrel on these cars. You have to remove the lower dash trim to expose the barrel from underneath. Insert the key and turn to ACC. You then depress a small button at the bottom of the ignition barrel housing and pull the cylinder out with the key. To replace, simply reinsert all the way, turn the key to "OFF" and remove the key. Doing this, you can inspect the back of the cylinder and switch for any signs of wear. Again, plenty of videos on youtube on how to do this.
  5. 1 point
    There's no problem with light spreading, lens does the job very well. 120 degrees LED bulbs have been used. No resistor required, blinking is the same because I didn't change bulbs in headlamp and tail lamp.
  6. 1 point
    I think there's a guide on this site somewhere, but really it's very simple to do. You'll need some carb cleaner, rags,12mm socket etc and allan keys to break apart the valve. Let's see if I can get this in the correct order: 1. Remove engine cover and plastic trim from front of engine bay. 2. Unplug cable from EGR (located at front of engine) 3. Loosen recirc pipe at EGR and cylinder head and remove, taking care to keep gaskets 4. Loosen bolts through EGR to manifold and withdraw EGR valve. It will just about slide off if you wiggle it. 5. Now you can see the coking in the manifold. Carefully remove using various tools and spray with carb cleaner (sparingly as poss as using too much makes vehicle more difficult to start afterwards). Wipe with clean rag. You can also use an old toothbrush. 6. Scribe the edge of the valve where the 2 halves join with a screwdriver. This makes it easy to know how the halves go back together. Loosen the allan keys and split the valve. Now you can move the valve manually without the actuator present. Clean as in 5 above. You can clean the valve to a lesser extent without splitting it using screwdriver and rag/carb cleaner. 7. Reassemble valve and refit to engine in reverse sequence of above. Remember to plug in the cable or you'll trigger the MIL.
  7. 1 point
    The first modifications have been fitted ! Roof spoiler and exhaust finisher. It's about twice as fast now, I'd estimate :D



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