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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/29/2015 in all areas

  1. Check the water pump and alternator...loosen the belt and remove, then spin each by hand, they should by silky smooth and silent. I had to change my daughters yaris water pump that had this similar grumble.
    1 point
  2. The function to switch the Speedo from MPH to KPH was a RHD UK only feature it was not present on LHD models
    1 point
  3. previously had this problem on my 2005 Yaris here is the link to the thread and the solution that I used http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/152434-yaris-drivers-window-fault/
    1 point
  4. Hi, yes as above, I read a post about the skoda badge looking good so I found one on eBay for £2. My silver bulbs arrived yesterday too...
    1 point
  5. It's an adhesive chrome "2" badge, originally fitted to a Škoda Roomster, perfect for an iQ2. Welcome, Liam! Chris iQ² in black ☆ red and white leather ☆ sunroof ☆ upgraded interior lighting ☆ white backlit dashboard/switches ☆ auto-folding mirrors ☆ smart entry ☆ auto-locking doors ☆ chrome handles and exhaust
    1 point
  6. Please swap your IQ. I'm sure someone else will love it more than you have. All you have done since you have owned it is moan about it. For example. you put new tyres on and the gauge reads 20.1mph instead of 20mph You put snow tyres on and MPG dropped - well that's obvious. They are a softer tyre with extra grooves in for more grip. More grip means more road resistance. More road resistance means less MPG. Not forgetting IT'S GETTING COLDER AND DARKER so you will use your heaters, headlights wipers and air con more. Your MPG gauge has read constantly 3mpg more since you got the car and you are not happy with this. YOU ARE GETTING 56MPG !!!! Your Yaris T-Sport only got 47.7mpg but it was accurate to 0.3mpg over 27000miles .............. WHO CARES You insurance renewal ONLY came down by £10 and you were expecting more - It is still a saving So lets work out how much you have actually saved. 27000 miles at 47.7 MPG at £1.10 per litre will cost you - £2833 27000 miles at 56 MPG at £1.10 per litre will cost you - £2413 You save only £10 on your insurance And you save £150 on road tax From the looks of it you had your Yaris for 2 years So taking into account your mileage can be halved per year this means you have saved £370 by having your Toyota IQ This will be a grand total of £740 saved over 2 years - and you don't need to fit new driveshafts like you did on your Yaris TSport References: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/166520-ups-and-downs/ http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/168609-another-new-owner/ http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/167543-lambda-sensors-for-iq3/ http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/166126-14-inch-space-saver/ http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/166613-fuel-gauge-operation/ Please don't forget - these cars are city cars, they are not designed to be thrashed. If you get a sore back when you are driving it it is because it is basically a go kart. Please don't take this the wrong way I just feel that you are being quite pedantic about things that don't matter. Enjoy this car for what it is - not what it isn't Since I have bought my IQ I have put new tyres all round, serviced it and fitted a new clutch. This is general wear and tear. Yes I count the clutch as being general wear and tear because my car has done 160000miles. Try getting that sort of reliability out of any other car. You can't
    1 point
  7. Solved! 1.5hour of work, most work was removing the gasket. Bearing was seized but now all is working just fine!
    1 point
  8. Finally finished the installation of my Ambarella A7LA50 dashcam, so I thought I'd post the information I gathered along the way. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. I was looking for a neat and tidy installation, so wanted it mounted at the top centre of the windscreen for the best view. I also wanted it hidden from general view from the inside and outside, but still easily accessible. Finally after a little playing around I decided I could fit it behind the rear view mirror whilst leaving enough space for mirror adjustment. Next problem was getting power and having the power switched off with the ignition, I didn't want recording to continue 24/7 and flatten the battery. I needed to tap into the cabling somehow and the upper central console looked a good source. After a visit to a Toyota Garage for some tips in removing the light, I discovered it was just a matter of ensuring there were no bolts/screws holding it up by checking behing the light lenses (none found) and then levering the console out until the clips popped out. You can see here that my unit is just held in place the four pop clips (2 blue & 2 white clips in photo). Best method is to use a long thin plastic prise tool to lever it out, however I improvised with an ice scraper. The connecting cables are easily unplugged. From eBay I purchased a 12v DC to 5v DC converter with a micro USB plug on the end, suitable for running my dashcam.(£3.58 inc postage from a UK supplier) and also a few wire taps and spade connectors to spur off the power from the existing cabling in the roof lining.(£3.15 inc postage from a UK supplier) - Also known as T-Tap or ScotchLok Using a meter and probes I found that the black and white wire was common ground/negative and a blue wire had a 12v supply which was cut with the ignition (perfect!) These wires powered my rear view mirror auto anti-dazzle, so shouldn't cause a problem tapping into that. Press on the connectors onto the wires (using pliers), crimp the spade connectors onto the power adapter and plug in. Nice and easy, no soldering. After plugging it all in and routing the USB cable down the side of the mirror trunking, it was just a simple case of popping the centre light console back. Easy peasy, looks neat and works great!30 minute job from start to finish (including taking photos!)
    1 point
  9. ##Update ## Removed the door panel and found the the u shaped plastic that locates the rear arm on the window regulator to the glass and cracked and the glass had come loose. I removed the plastic u bracket drilled a hole in the bracket to locate a m6 bolt and 2 large washers to repair clamping the glass inbetween the u shape of the bracket on car repalced and now works fine
    1 point
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