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4 months down the line I just thought I'd update this thread. Fuel pump and gauge doing well, went down to flashing and did around 10 miles before I chickened out and filled up so quite happy with that (yes I did have a can in the boot :) ) Tapeworm in the jar seems content still so hopefully the repair is going to be good for a long time.

I wouldn't worry about it unless the shiny part is significantly smaller than the original swept area of the pad. The only remedy apart from replacing the disc would be to have it machined (skimmed) and you would need to change the pads But remember, with brakes, whatever you do to one side of the axle, you do to the other side to keep the brake balance. So your options are, either replace the axle set of discs and pads, which is slightly more expensive but quicker, or have the discs skimmed and replace the pads, which would be cheaper but more down time whilst waiting for the machining of the discs.

Hi Konrad, Appreciate your comments. I accept that ultimately I may have no option but to buy a car with EPB. Of course, buying second hand, one has no control over a previous owner driving through deep water, or even a puddle The Auris Touring might be an option for me. Alternatively a late Avensis Mk2 (2007-09), but not easy finding a good low mileage one.

Thanks for the reply, the coolant is just the same dirty colour in the tank. No smell to it though. The garage will reveal all I guess, hopefully its nothing major :( Will update tomorrow........

That is why I stated when parked up, not running! Most leaks evaporate under heat and pressure, especially when small. When the engine has cooled, put sheets of kitchen towels in suspected areas of the leak. Leave a couple of notes to remind you to check the towels in the morning . Is the coolant level dropping and by how much? The water looks rusty/dirty. I assume the liquid found is confirmed as coolant! The car has windscreen drainage under the wipers is covered, and could be hiding the fact it is blocked. Overall the kitchen towel is very absorbent, plus the liquid colour captured will confirm it is coolant. Also the dry towels will eliminate the dry areas.

NB: He means on the BACKS of the pads where they're against the pistons, not on the pads themselves! For the love of smeg don't put copper grease on the front of the pads!!!

From the information I've received from Pete's post about the 2016 Prius Test Notes. It would appear that the onboard MPG calculator overestimates by 4% around 4-6mpg. I have calculated my consumption (of 340 miles from a 30 litre fill) at 51.5. However the car reads an average of 55.3 but this is over lots of tankfuls and about 1000 miles. Perhaps it would be more accurate by calculating per tank. I've signed up to Fuelly and will be interested to see what I can get. My usual journeys are a 6 mile commute (12 round trip) on mostly flat ground with about 3 of those 6 being 50mph and the other 3 being 30 and under city driving. I have driven to Gatwick before that was about a 200 mile round trip on motorways and the reading went down by about 1-2mpg (according to the on-board computer). That was using the cruise control at 70 and the 50 stretch on the M3.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'm thinking of doing an early engine oil change, but that is it. I plan on keeping my Yaris until it falls apart! I fear the bodywork will go before I get some serious milage on it! :D

Exactly my point. They are designed and made as sealed for life and nobody questions that. The transmission is also designed and made as sealed for life by Toyota and that is their firm advice. I will follow their advice.

Ok so my tie wraps didn't come in time for the weekend and I needed to get it back on the road. I bought a pack of shorter ones from Wilco and connected two together making sure that the joins were not on the outside of the circle. It's a bit of a lash up but the lip on the bottom ensures the tie wraps don't fall off. I did test the level sender and it appeared ok, connected it up with the fuel pump out of the tank (and empty) and the fuel gauge on the dash moved as I moved the level float so all good. Popped it back in the tank, turned the key a few times to pressure up and it started fine, with a full gauge one bar down. Happy days. Now need to run it to one bar and see if I run empty before then just to give an idea of levels. In reality I'll be filling up half way just to be sure. Did try the resistors one more time and there was movement on the gauge - a bit erratic but did give an indication the signal was getting there. Cost to repair - my time and £1

My Avensis is March 2009. I had an electronic handbrake actuator fail a few weeks ago, see post "Electronic Parking Brake - Why?" It went to the dealers to fit a new actuator, the car was out of warranty, 68k miles. I asked how much the repair would cost (the car is a leased vehicle) and was told about £1,000 (£675 for the actuator, 2.1/2 hours labour plus VAT. In my opinion, the electronic handbrake is an expensive solution to a problem that did not exist. All it means is that when somebody is the 2nd or 3rd owner of an Avensis that is a few years old, a failed parking brake actuator will lead to the car being scrapped due to the high cost of repair.

Thanks, I understand that the leaving in gear is a belt and braces option but ppl should not have to do this, the handbrake should be designed strong enough to hold the car whatever gradient. I hope I get it sorted also. Cheers for your reply :-)